XS750 to XS896 big bore

XS750AU said:
Tuna - any chance of getting your "Blackened Snapper & Corn balls" recipe? We got 15 meals out of this one and it is looking like a great season. Would love to give some Cajun a go.
Cheers
Tim



Cajun Black Dust: Make extra and save for up to 6 months in a saved spice jar.

1 teaspoon Paprika
1 teaspoon Onion Powder
1 teaspoon Garlic Powder
1 teaspoon Cayenne Pepper
1 teaspoon Ground Black Pepper
1 teaspoon Dried Oregano/I sometimes replace with cilantro, the ladies love it
1 tablespoon Sea Salt

I don't dust the fish with season, but you can do it how you like. I like to squirt a teaspoon or so of peanut oil (vegie if allergic) in an iron skillet then add a chunk of butter (real not yellow plastic goo) over medium heat and add the spices to toast in the juice until it gets your drool going from the smell, then let cool in a glass bowl.

Make up the corn balls while the season batch is cooling.

1/2 white cornbread 1/2 yellow (one is sweet and one is neutral) best to use corn from the cob but thawed frozen is good also. Now in that same pan uncleaned add the corn, should be enough of the season to lightly flavor the corn, remove and let cool while mixing the dough.

The dough is however much you want to make. Add the dry into a glass bowl, add corn (this is tricky too much corn and they may break) like 1/4 cup corn to a cup of dough add 1/3 the amount of water or chicken stock the batch calls for on the package add one egg or two if for more than a dozen. In the end the mix should hold a shape but not too dry.

I don't like to waste oil or have too much to get rid of so I use a medium sauce pan and deep fry them 4 at a time, you need to have the oil as close to 350deg as you can too hot and the middle is raw to coold and you have grease balls... deep fry until dark almost chocolate dark but not burnt... = Yum.

Prep the fish by patting dry with paper towels and on the skin side score the fish gently one way 3/4in apart and 1/8in deep don't cut deep at all.

Use a soup spoon and your fingers to spread the season on the fish, not too much or it will be salty. That pan should be both seasoned and just wiped clean for the fish, add a small squirt of oil, add a pat of butter (remember the fish has all this on it already we just don't want things to stick) bring the heat on and as soon as it starts to flash the butter add the fish skin (removed) side down and turn down a bit... very important not to turn too soon 4-5 minutes then flip and cook for 2 minutes 3 if you like it really well.

If you serve rice with the dish, you can now use the drippings to make a sauce to die for... heat the dirty pan add a little butter then in a measuring cup add 1-1/2 cups milk add 1tbs of flour and 1/2 tsp of the dry season stir vigorously and pour into the pan, stir with a whisk until the pan has given back all those seasons and fishy juices, pour into a bowl use a rubber spatula to get it all.

Rice 2-1 water rice, add 1 tsp oil to pot, pinch of salt add water and boil, add rice and cook for 18 minutes on lowest setting, turn off and don't open until ready to plate... ladle a small pond of sauce (taste first) onto the plate, open rice and fluff with a fork, using a small glass bowl just lightly rub a littl butter in the bowl with paper towel and fill with rice packing lightly, turn over onto the sauce and the butter will release a perfect pile of yummy every time :eek: add a blackened filet, drizzle a tiny bit of sauce on the edge of the fish, drop a few balls on the plate and you my friend have made someone very happy.

Enjoy ;D
 
XS750AU said:
Thanks Tune-A, cannot wait to try it, pity I am off to Shanghai today!!

Oh? well go down into the ghetto and get a fresh and hot whole Peking Duck and take it back to the room and devour that thing!
 
Yep, the Chinese do a great duck.
Managed to get a bit more done. Made up the seat pan out of 4mm 5083 ally, would have preferred 2.5, but I had 4.0 not 2.5, might have to mill a few slots to lighten it a bit. I am going to try and come up with a clip in seat, using the slotted grommets that are used to hold the standard side covers.
Also having second thoughts on the white foam as it is just collapsing (as intended) but the single layer (20mm) of the high density (grey) foam is bottoming out too much :mad:. Think it will end up with just 2 layers of grey. :D
Cheers
Tim
 

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Nice work, I am building an XS750 sidecar (almost done with the engineering side to be honest), but I really have to build a different seat, so I shall follow your build closely as I want to do something a lot more classic, like the one on a SR500/XS650.

Oh and I might have to look for an English wheel as you make that look way too easy.
 
Hi Nanno
I had a Chang sidecar and sold it and bought my first XS750. I just could not get comfortable on twisty roads with a sidecar!
With the English wheel I am an absolute novice. If you look on the university of Youtube there are some guys who can do amazing work. My front guard is close, but not good enough yet. The curvature is not correct, I need a 20" diameter and it is at about 22". I might need to get a thickener onto the sides to pull it around! The center of the guard has thinned down from the 1.2mm stock to 0.8mm from working with the English Wheel. It has work hardend very well and is rigid and springy.
Cheers
Tim.

Sent from my SM-G900I using DO THE TON mobile app
 
It takes a while to get the hang of sidecar'ing. Partially it's also a tribute to the weather overhere, we measure snow in feet and not inches and usually it's about three to four months a year where riding solo just isn't an option (for me at least). And neither is not riding at all.

Yes, I'll have a closer look at some of those videos on youtube. So far I haven't really done much sheet metal work in my life, only structural stuff. (I am trained engineer originally!) But I am looking forward to the challenge.

Not trying to divert anybody from your build, but in case you're interested about my build, have a look at my blog, which is linked in the footer below.
 
Hi Nanno
Good to see the work of another Yamaha fan! Love the manifold work. From what you have done, sheet metal will not be difficult for you.
Cheers
Tim

Sent from my SM-G900I using DO THE TON mobile app
 
Well, at least your seat wont break! If i had you weather i would probably not do much but the garage is warm and the xs is getting new swing arm bearings while its still freezing here.
 
datadavid said:
Well, at least your seat wont break! If i had you weather i would probably not do much but the garage is warm and the xs is getting new swing arm bearings while its still freezing here.

Hey data!
I´ll be down that road too sooner or later on my build. is there a way that you cover changing the bearings in your XS thread?

cheers!
 
Little bit more work on the seat. Changed the top layer to the harder grey foam and then cut the wedge out of the pillion area to follow the upturn on the frame loop. Next it is off to work for skiving the foam to the final profile and making the trim cover.
 

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XS750AU said:
Little bit more work on the seat. Changed the top layer to the harder grey foam and then cut the wedge out of the pillion area to follow the upturn on the frame loop. Next it is off to work for skiving the foam to the final profile and making the trim cover.

Nice work on the seat!May I ask which kind of foam/density did you use?

Cheers
 
Ryan
The foam is open cell polyurethane that has been slab cut to 20mm thick. Hardness, we would specify at nominal 250N, but different suppliers and markets may specify in other ways. The trimmers have done a great job gluing and getting the foam ready to trim. The foam is now cut back to be 4mm out from the base plate edge, so that there is no visible read through from the base plate.
 

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Had a bit of time today when I was getting the boat ready to go fishing tomorrow. The steering head bearings need replacing as they are rusted and pitted. The top one came out without trouble. The bottom one is being difficult. The issue is that I cannot get to the lip on the lower outer race to drive it out!!!! There are 2 groves, front and rear that are meant to expose the lip so you can drive it out, but even with the groves the lip is not exposed enough to get a drift onto it. Heat was no real help - did not get it hot enough to burn paint though.
Any one got any special tricks that I could try?
Thanks
Tim
 

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Make two or three tack-welds. That will distort the bearing cup sufficiently so it'll fall out under its own weight.
 
der_nanno said:
Make two or three tack-welds. That will distort the bearing cup sufficiently so it'll fall out under its own weight.

+1 this method works great.
 
+1 on the welding distortion plan. Alternatively, you can take a Dremel or die grinder and a small cut off wheel and enlarge the two recesses originally intended to make a spot to use a drift to remove the original much wider race. Then you can just tap the race out. Depends on the gear you have on hand as both ways work well. However, in the long haul, having the enlarged recesses will prevent frustration on the next bearing replacement.
 
Thanks Gents
2 large tack welds and then a bit of a tap (did not wait for it to cool down - patience is not one of my virtues) and out it came. The larger welds gave me a spot to get the drift onto and a very small tap and bing it was on the floor.
Thanks
Tim
PS. Fishing was not too good = one flathead.
 

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