CB350 Engine rebuild: first timer, need some advice

Not sure what I was right about. I was saying you shouldn't have torn the engine down yet. <G>

Bad Idea to try and re-use head and cylinder base gaskets. Other gaskets, if still in good condition, can be reused with a little gasket sealer a lot of times. But, since the gasket is new, it's worth trying to reuse it. Once the engine has been run, probably not. Get some CopperKote head gasket shellac for when you put it back together the next time.

I don't think your rings could be so bad as to have only 60 lbs compression with or without oil in the cylinders. Probably still a valve issue causing low compression. Could be wrong valve timing, or still out of adjustment. Adjusting valves is kinda tricky, and not so easy for a newby to get right. It's one of the most common causes of low compression.

Here is where I would admish you for tearing the engine down before evaluating its condition if I hadn't done that already. <G> I wish we had a viable compression reading on that engine from the outset before you had done anything to it. That way we would have a little more insight on the readings we are getting now.

It's my rule, under pretty much all circumstances, to re-ring any time an engine is apart. It's just good practice, and rings don't cost as much as a set of gaskets. Don't do oversize rings. They won't fit into your standard bore. You said that the cylinders did not look worn, if I recall, so standard rings are what you should fit. Just be sure that the ring gap is within specs.
 
Do a little reading up on "cylinder leakdown test." You can rent the tool, and it will tell you why your compression is low.
 
This is interesting in a rabid, insane sort of way. First up. Those valves and seats are coated in a thick layer of carbon. There are two issues to fix. First, the carbon needs to be cleaned off with a wire brush. Get those lumps off. Next question is why is it carboned up? Could just be millions of hard miles or could be the valve guide seals need replacing or the bores and rings are shot.

Check valves for play in their guides. Just put them in and move the valve head from side to side with it lighter 1/4" - 1/2". Is the play imperceptible or is there a lot of slop? Lots of slop and the guides are shot and must be replaced. IF they are OK, get the seats cut professionally. It's worth the investment.

Next the bores and pistons. You need to work out/measure the gap between the piston and bore to know if it needs to be re-bored, or if it can be honed and new pistons/rings fitted.

If the head had not already been stripped, a quick test is to pour fuel or kerosene down the ports and watch for leaks around the valves. We have high and low pressure leak down testers here, but fuel in the port is a pretty good test along with compression testing.

If that head gasket is new and has not been run, it's OK to re-use it. Get teh valves right first and check teh bore and piston for size and work from there.
 
You did have the throttle wide open when you did compression test?
60psi would be about right for closed throttle and not kicking fast enough
BTW, you should be able to get valves done for about $20~$25.00 a 'hole' with 3 angle cut
 
The carbs are not on while doing the test, so wide open there.

I am just turning the crank with a ratchet to get these numbers....the engine is not in the bike so I cant kick it. I was a little worried that the speed is too slow when turning the crank.

The valves seal fine with a PB blaster test, should I try kerosene for any reason?

Very new to all this so still figuring it out any help is always appreciated.
 
Turning the engine over that slowly will give you a low compression reading.

It take usually 3-4 strokes, minimum, to get max reading. It has to turn over at cranking speed.
 
Well I think that rings are in order, then rebuild and try again and see where I am at.
 
Turning crank with rachet, you'll be lucky to get 5~10psi.
Connect jumper leads to starter motor to spin it over (if you still have starter fitted?)
You could try putting a socket adapter in an electric drill and see if that will turn it?
Really need to get it spinning to have any chance of accurate compression test
As well as tester, you need a compressor to do a leak-down test
5% is good, 10% acceptable
 
Hoooookay

Compression is up to 120(L) and 125(R)
is this acceptable for a cold engine?

I hooked up the starter after installing the new rollers, springs and caps, works like a champ.
 
Also, probably the stupidest question I have asked yet....
What is the port on the top of the engine for?
photobucket-24880-1318802887237.jpg
 
Basically. It vents to the atmosphere to allow for pressure changes within the cases/head.
 
It used to connect to the airbox, so that any oil mist coming out of it would be sucked into the engine and burned. On my Suzuki 450, I have it routed to the front sprocket so any oil coming out of it goes onto the chain.
 
So back to the compression...
120 acceptable for a cold engine?
 
No way of knowing for sure, but it's probably OK. Only sure way to check compression is when it's hot. Given that a hot engine can run (albeit not well) at 100 PSI, I'm sure you'll be able to get it going at 120 PSI.
 
Your service manual should be able to tell you. We are not your index. Look it up, fer fuck sake! <G>
 
I figure it should go up to about 150 hot so I Should be alright. A little on the low end.

Alright excellent. As soon as my carb jets come in I'll toss a coat of paint on the frame and put the engine in and start her up
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
Your service manual should be able to tell you. We are not your index. Look it up, fer fuck sake! <G>

I did, neither clymer or factory mention cold compression values.

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Yeah so I copied and pasted it, this site needs a "the finger" smiley haha
 
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