mike xs rims question

imtyson

Been Around the Block
Hey guys, I plan on purchasing mikes xs rims
H 2.15x18 36 spoke shouldered aluminum motorcycle rim Black
Part # 34-3182.

The only problem is I'm not sure which spokes to buy. I emailed customer service about this and they replied, "The rim that you ordered will work on your Honda CB350, but we do not make a spoke kit for that bike."

anyone have any input on which spoke kits i can purchase anywhere that would fit these combo and where?
 
It uses the same spokes as stock. If it is going on the front, it uses the same as the present front spokes, if on the rear, the same as the rear spokes.

If you are changing hubs, than that would need to be checked, as disk vs drum have different length spokes.

Buchanans has reasonable priced (Cheaper than Honda OEM) spokes. they will help you determine the size you need if you are going "rogue" (or stock).

I used standard for the bike length spokes on my CB360 with MikesXS rims.
 
Keep in mind that you need to consider the hub diameter as well. "Front" rims usually are for small diameter hubs with disc brakes. "Rear" rims are usually for large diameter drum brake hubs. As far as it goes, there are no "front" or "rear" rims. The rim you need is only the width, spoke count and spoke angle drilled into the rim for the hub you intend to mount it on. Make sure you get rims drilled at the correct angle for the hubs you use. The angle does have a very slight range of hub diameters it will work with, but a rim drilled for a drum sized hub will absolutely NOT work correctly for a typical disc sized hub. It is possible to re-drill some rims to make them work, but it is not simple. The nipple sits in a spherical recess that must also be machined along with the new angle, so a special cutter and fixture is needed. You also risk making the rim thin where you remove the extra material.

I have built numerous wheels with spokes and rims from MikesXS. The parts are very nice for the money (only used bare alloy though) and I recommend them, just be sure you understand you need the correct parts. Just keep in mind that the guys at MikesXS are not wheel builders like Buchanan's; they have decent parts for super cheap and good customer service, but they only have a few known applications that they know are correct. If you want to order rims and spokes that will be the exact right thing for your application, Buchanan's sells this service (though very expensive in my book, but you get what you pay for at least). If you know the hub diameters of Mikes applications and they are the same as what you need, you have a very good shot at getting the right stuff.
 
I understand what you are saying Jp ^ but I personally bought a set of mikesX's 2.15 rims and laced them up fine on my cl 360. I used my stock oem spokes and It turned out great. Everything fit. And the rims tru d and balanced. I'm not sure how bad that can be. Just because some bikes require washers and drilling holes at certain angles doesn't mean every bike does. For $90 per rim and use of stock spokes it was worth a try financially. And it worked out. I will be racing this bike in fact, and the rims feel sturdy. Shrugs.
 
Mydlyfkryzis thanks! My old spokes are all rusted out so I plan on buying new ones. And I'll look over buchanans sizes and go from there.

Jpmobius I believe you could be right but I think I might just try non drilled approach. I'm also keeping my drum brakes for simplicity.
 
Realized I had a picture - wish I had posted it previously. This is a nice rim from MikesXS. It is drilled for a smaller diameter hub. I thought it had been drilled for a large hub, and laced it up. Very obvious it would not work, and I took a picture. The spokes are the correct length, but if tightened up, the nipples will sit like the one I am holding in place with my finger, causing the spokes to curve. The nipple will try to sit square in its recess, despite being pulled from a different angle. The spokes in this picture all look ok because they are super loose and the nipples are not being pulled into the rim. If you have all the correct parts, you will never experience this. If you have a situation like the one here and finish the wheel, you will have in my opinion an unsafe and unacceptable assembly. There is no doubt that this wheel could have been tightened and trued. However, all the nipples would be leaning and bearing on only one side of their heads being pulled to one side from the too large diameter hub. I took it apart and re-machined the rim, but I don't recommend doing it. I want to make clear that this has nothing to do with Mikes. The rim was fine - just not the right part for this hub - and it is not on a bike listed in Mikes applications. As this looks to be the OP's situation, I though it a good thing for promote looking out for. I hate waiting for ordered parts to arrive, but having to send them back and order correct replacements to arrive is far worse!
 

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Not certain as it was a while back. Pretty sure it is a 2.15 x 18, but might be a 2.5. What Mikes has available varies from time to time, but they probably had both fronts and backs in the 2.15.
 
Not at all! The parts from Mikes XS are fine. For me, one of the good things about motorcycles is their minimal nature. There is only the hardware that is absolutely essential there. So it doesn't take much of a failure to produce very unpleasant results. Fortunately, most of the hardware has evolved into reasonably foolproof machinery that even handled poorly seldom results in a serious problem. Building wire wheels is a whole bunch easier than most people think, but they do need to have all the correct parts to be put together as a reliable and safe assembly. I think it may not be obvious to a first time wheel builder that an unsafe condition may be present due the components not being correct. The problem is trying to assemble wheels and specifying the parts yourself if you lack the experience and expertise. Fortunately, this only happens if you actually design your own wheels. If you have wire wheels to start with, you can fearlessly replace the rims and spokes as long as rims are the same diameter. Nearly all 18" rims will use the same spokes, and the ones that don't will be pretty obviously different. The only difference is the angle the holes are drilled, and in the main, most rear drum brakes are close enough in size that a rim drilled for a rear drum will work for most other rear drums. Likewise for rims drilled for much smaller disc brake front hubs; most hubs are very close in size. So for example, a rim drilled for a rear 650 Yamaha will work great for a CB350 rear hub. But you have to have the spokes for the CB hub because the slightly larger Yamaha hub will use spokes that are slightly too short. But the drilled angle will be so close it won't matter. You would have problems if you wanted to say, lace up an old GP drum brake in the front because the diameter is so large even a typical rear rim won't have enough angle on the spokes. So go ahead and do it yourself. Just make sure you get a "rear" rim for the back, and a "front" rim for the front if you have a disc. If you buy spokes that are not specific to your application, just make sure they are EXACTLY the same length as stock. If you had an XS650, you know you would be getting the exact parts from Mikes. For a different bike the rims are easy enough, but researching the spokes is tricky considering Mikes does not give spoke dimensions. I guess that is part of what you pay for from Buchanan's - they will spec any wheel there is. If you buy stock replacement spokes from Honda and the appropriate rims from Mikes, I think you will have no problems and probably really enjoy building your own wheels! One last comment though - if you end up with stainless spokes AND nipples (many aftermarket nipples are not stainless even shipped with stainless spokes) religiously put anti-sieze on the threads or you can have a really REALLY bad experience!
 
KICKRacing said:
I understand what you are saying Jp ^ but I personally bought a set of mikesX's 2.15 rims and laced them up fine on my cl 360. I used my stock oem spokes and It turned out great. Everything fit. And the rims tru d and balanced. I'm not sure how bad that can be. Just because some bikes require washers and drilling holes at certain angles doesn't mean every bike does. For $90 per rim and use of stock spokes it was worth a try financially. And it worked out. I will be racing this bike in fact, and the rims feel sturdy. Shrugs.

I've built several wheels with 'XS rims', the only time you need any modifications is if the spoke nipples are too small for the drilled holes. It's a good idea to relive one edge of spoke hole if your using disc brake as the angle is slightly different from the drum hub. I use a chainsaw file to do it, takes less than 10mins after you figure out which side of hole needs slight angle. (see pic jpmobius posted)
Using a steel rim it isn't any sort of problem because metal is much thinner
Front Honda drum has same flange PCD as the XS 650 rear hub.
The only rims that really need cupped washers are the MX rims, the nipple hole is at least 2mm bigger than street rims. Motocrossers use thicker spokes and 8 or 9mm dia nipples, Honda use 5.5mm or 6mm nipples (depending on year)
 
jpmobius said:
Not certain as it was a while back. Pretty sure it is a 2.15 x 18, but might be a 2.5. What Mikes has available varies from time to time, but they probably had both fronts and backs in the 2.15.

There might lay your issue. The 2.15 mikesxs rims are the max rim size to allow stock spokes due to the spoke placement. I hear the 2.5 rims have wider spacing on the spoke hole location on the rim. This makes the angles all weird.

The 2.15 mikesxs rim is IDENTICAL to a stock rim as far as spoke hole, angles, etc. The only diffrence is the rim is wider.

Once again. 2.15 rim is the widest you can go and its exactly the same as a stock rim. I am using 2.15 front and rear on my 74" honda cl360. With stock spokes and it works great.
 
Check out this thread:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=64081.0
Have not used these spokes myself, but evidently theses stainless spokes are working well for some.
 
Hey jpmobius I totally looked at that thread an was thinking the same option. I'm going to wait till he gives a review on them
 
hey everybody i just bought some mikesxs rims 2.15x18 36 spoke shouldered rims. front and rear. i plan on buying

Duro HF918 Front Tire - 90/90-18 25-91818-90

Shinko 712 Series Tire - Rear - 110/90-18

does anyone know what size tubes i would need? would it be the same 90/90 18 and 110/90 18?

im confused because sizes on DCC say 2.75 - 3.00 Motorcycle Tire Tube - (18") and 2.25 - 2.50 Motorcycle Tire Tube - (18")

i have no idea which one to buy...
 
check out this website, pretty awesome metric to inch tire converter


http://www.crawlpedia.com/tire_size_converter.htm
 
KICKRacing said:
check out this website, pretty awesome metric to inch tire converter


http://www.crawlpedia.com/tire_size_converter.htm



for a better faster easy easy way, a lot of tubes have both numbers matric and sae... so just use your size to cross refrence other brands.
 
The sizes you list from DCC will be fine. FWIW, and I'm not recommending anything, but I have seen LOTS of too big and too small tubes for the tire size, and no failures attributable to the miss match. And I'll admit to using the wrong size on my own bikes a time or two and even on occasion re-using tubes with no issues so I personally don't stress too much over them. Curious though why you bought such a wide rim for the front and also why the miss match in tire brands? Tire sizes should be great for your bike though!
 
Thanks kickracing that thing really helped :)

Sweet jpmobius. I read some threads on tire sizes and kickracing was one of them that went with the 2.15 size and said it was good. And it also looks good. The mismatch in brand was also from the same thread. Seemed like a cheaper option and they didn't sell the same model for front and rear for the Shinko. Good reviews on both tires so I'm sure it will be pretty decent :D
 
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