75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

MiniatureNinja said:
the bronze guides aren't an upgrade anyway (He told me Honda used Iron for a reason) so I'm happy that I can save about $100 there.

Not saying you should spend your $100. If isn't broke, don't fix it. But the reason Honda used cast iron guides over bronze is expense, not performance. It's significantly cheaper to use iron and it's much easier to work with in a production setting.
 
Cast iron is to some degree self lubricating and has an open structure that holds oil. But aren't Honda valve guides made from sintered steel which is tougher. Same as used in Ferrari motors AFAIK.

Tough as all get out. last forever and come already fitted. :)
 
I machined my own valve guides for my BMW. One thing cool about these guides is they don't require a separate rubber seal.

ec2960e5c2958bd7256ab8fb2812c495.jpg
 
irk miller said:
Not saying you should spend your $100. If isn't broke, don't fix it. But the reason Honda used cast iron guides over bronze is expense, not performance. It's significantly cheaper to use iron and it's much easier to work with in a production setting.

basically longevity is why. and i'm fine with that. I dont see a performance benefit to bronze
 
There isn't any performance benefit if the stock guides are in good condition. I never change stock guides unless they are worn out (usually from poor service running dirty oil for years) Not many 360's got high enough mileage to wear out guides but I have seen problems when heads were removed and 'stored' without valves, guides can rust in the bore then be oversize when 'cleaned up' ::)
 
ordered up a 520 o-ring chain conversion kit from Moto-Madness Customs - gold chain and a 16f-35r sprocket

I already have a 34 and a 37 sprocket, thought about getting a spare 17 front for highway riding when i go down the the bay area for the DSG this Sept, but there is time for that.
 
With stock (17/34) a 378 will hold a constant 80~90+mph with max speed around 120mph+ (very dependent on conditions/terrain) so 16 / 35 will give ludicrous acceleration assuming you can keep the front wheel down ;D
 
I actually went the opposite direction on my 378. 18 tooth front sprocket from a CB450 and 33 tooth rear sprocket from a CJ.

I can hit 70mph in 2nd gear at 10,500 RPM. Theoretical top speed of 142.
 
crazypj said:
With stock (17/34) a 378 will hold a constant 80~90+mph with max speed around 120mph+ (very dependent on conditions/terrain) so 16 / 35 will give ludicrous acceleration assuming you can keep the front wheel down ;D

I dont have a freeway within 10 miles of me, all back country winding roads, so i am leaning more towards the lower gearing - also considering the exhaust I plan to use won't be best for lower end power I want to stay higher in the RPMs
 
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

MiniatureNinja said:
I dont have a freeway within 10 miles of me, all back country winding roads, so i am leaning more towards the lower gearing - also considering the exhaust I plan to use won't be best for lower end power I want to stay higher in the RPMs
Low end torque is what you want for winding back country roads.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

540Nova said:
Low end torque is what you want for winding back country roads.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

that may be true for something that redlines at 6500, this bike will be in the 11k range redline - I'll be spending all my time above 6 or 7 k.
 
That does make for a lot of hard work on your left toe as well as the motor. Twisties are generally best with more low down torque and less revving its nuts off and gear changing up and down. Just sayin'
 
teazer said:
That does make for a lot of hard work on your left toe as well as the motor. Twisties are generally best with more low down torque and less revving its nuts off and gear changing up and down. Just sayin'

I'm sure you guys are probably right on this - Im also paving my own way with some of what i am doing, while drawing on the knowledge and experience of others - which is why I ordered other sprocket combinations in case what I have going doesn't work to my liking. Weather in Norcal doesn't look to be slowing down any, I'm still getting all my parts together in boxes for assembly. My powdercoater source has gone off the deep end of divorce - so im stuck finding another coater or painting the frame and bits. I'm OK with either option really.
 
teazer said:
That does make for a lot of hard work on your left toe as well as the motor. Twisties are generally best with more low down torque and less revving its nuts off and gear changing up and down. Just sayin'

Depends who or what your chasing. ;D
Guy on the $23,000 Paul Smart replica Ducati was 'quite impressed' with the 1974 'CB360' (on original tyres) his buddy on the 'cheaper ($18,000 Duc )was just pissed though 8)
I would still run 'stock 17/34 or even 17/33 except on my 'trail' version which has 'oversize' tyres and will be used 'in the dirt' (Blue Bike)
 
crazypj said:
Depends who or what your chasing. ;D
Guy on the $23,000 Paul Smart replica Ducati was 'quite impressed' with the 1974 'CB360' (on original tyres) his buddy on the 'cheaper ($18,000 Duc )was just pissed though 8)
I would still run 'stock 17/34 or even 17/33 except on my 'trail' version which has 'oversize' tyres and will be used 'in the dirt' (Blue Bike)

why do dirt bikes use suck large sprockets? like 47t on my XR400 and the GS250 I got has a huge sprocket as well
 
MiniatureNinja said:
why do dirt bikes use suck large sprockets? like 47t on my XR400 and the GS250 I got has a huge sprocket as well
Dirt bikes need low end torque for getting over stuff and to climb trees.
 
irk miller said:
Dirt bikes need low end torque for getting over stuff and to climb trees.
Plus, 130mph on dirt is REALLY REALLY SCARY.
Don't ever gear a Maico 490 with 17/43 sprockets , 15/58 is 'safer' ;) (only use 3rd, 4th,5th unless it's a real gnarly section)
 
tray.PNG


I have some carbon fiber panels and tube laying around, gonna make a battery tray out of it all to fit under the seat. spent some time in Fusion360 planning it all out. using a metri-pack 4 circuit box, OEM starter solenoid, and an AntiGravity 4cell. Probably wont use the carbon fiber top 'bar' to hold the battery down, maybe just some velcro (it's not going anywhere) will weld some tabs on the seat rails to hold it in place about 6mm below.

the extra two 10mm holes are for a toggle and push button switch (ign and start) I REALLY want a motogadget m-lock but can't justify the extra $150 I'm already deep into this project right now and haven't even purchased the wheels and tires or exhaust tubing yet.
 
Back
Top Bottom