My first build - 75 Honda CL360 Scrambler

If you have an aftermarket cable, it's almost certainly made by K&L Manufacturing. If not, it's still wrong length, no one except OEM has correct cable for 360. The return spring is way too long, just remove it and check everything else is assembled right. Spring too long prevents arm going down far enough for clutch to work
 
i ordered the right spring from eBay since I can't find it and don't know that I will, this spring is the one that I had in the zip loc bag with the other clutch parts but that was two years ago so who knows. I'll keep searching for it but I may not have an update on this until I get the new spring. In the meantime I'll keep working on syncing the carbs. Thanks all.
Oh I also cannot find the spring that goes in the kickstart lever, the one that sits in the hollow screw and pushes on the ball bearing. The only one I can find online is from cmsnl.com and they want $27 to ship a spring which is ridiculous. Anyone know of any other resources ? I wish Des Moines had a motorcycle scrap yard.
 
I have a place kinda local I need to visit. Will try and get there tomorrow as I need at least one spring for kickstart as well. If they have anything suitable I'll pick up a couple. Even though their prices ain't great, should only be about$ 1.00~ $2.00.
 
After going through 'hundreds' of trays, I managed to find 4 springs the right size. Let me know if you want one, They were only $1.00, damn padded envelope costs $1.25
 
Yep, the little odd sized one that holds ball bearing to stop kickstasrt lever flopping around. Got to make a new screw for mine as well, plus measure ball bearing (I think 1/4" or 5/16"?)
 
Hey PJ, Here is the link to the screw I got on eBay if it helps. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Honda-CB-CL-SL-XL-CM-350-360-400-450-500-Kick-Start-Arm-Bolt-28303-310-010/131892908402?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
I'm pretty sure I can make one from a stainless bolt off-cut, I have some from making brake banjo bolts
 
Yep, I know. Not a big deal, drill hole and 'flat' bottom with centre cutting end mill
 
Sssoooo I got the new clutch return spring in the mail and it's the same spring as the one I have. It looks like the cable length isn't allowing the clutch lever to go any further down than half way, maybe that is not allowing the clutch to return to the position it needs to be in to work properly. I'll play around with it more this afternoon but I'm about ready to just take it to a local bike shop to finish up the last couple adjustments so I can ride it yet this year. so frustrating.
 
I have a clutch cable that I just took off of my CJ360. It should probably be lubed up but still works and is not cracked at all. Should be the right length. Let me know if you want it. I also may have a spring, I have a lot of parts sitting in my storage shed, I will check to see if there is one in there. I am assuming that when you are starting you adjustment you have the bolt all the way down on the sprocket cover and the adjustment screw at the lever all the way in?


JR
 
I have the screw on top of the case all the way in. I have the one at the lever half way in because that's what I've read. I did just make the adjustments all over again and this time I felt tension on the handle and when I pulled harder it popped and then lost all tension.
 
When it 'pops' it's gone 'over centre', you may have to pull cover off again. You can adjust cable before fitting cover so operating arm lines up with the cast in pointer although I always set it as low as possible and use adjuster screw on the outside of cover to move the entire lifter assembly onto the clutch push-rod. The return spring should be pretty thin wire, (1.5mm) If it isn't possible to adjust cable to get arm lined up with pointer you will have to shorten outer cable. Some pictures 1: spring length (35mm) 2; adjustment pointer 3; correct position
 

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I remembered that I have an extra cable because I accidentally ordered two. I took the one off the bike and compared them. The other new one is about 1/4" longer. Hopefully this will get the arm down into the 7:30-8:00 position.


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1/4" makes a hell of a difference, as long as it's in the right direction ;D
 
Curiously, on the new cable, the nut that goes through the clutch cover, the part that is not threaded, was too big to fit in the hole so I don't know what's going on, maybe I've got a frankenstein bike. I installed the new cable and adjusted the flathead screw on the cover and now I can't pull the handle in which makes me think maybe I put the clutch plates back in wrong. Not sure how because I was very careful to put the new ones in the way the old ones came out (yes i soaked them in oil for 24 hours).
 
360 has a 'tube' nut and locknut on top of it. I have a NOS CB350 cable here somewhere, can't remember if it uses same diameter parts? The tube nut should unscrew and fit on 'longer cable, standard 8mm thread on adjusters. CB550 uses same size nut as 360, 400F screws into cover. CB/CM400/450 has same tube nut as well NOS CB350. 60mm of 'exposed' cable, 11mm dia. tube nt
 

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With the new cable I was able to get the bike to shift, I finally rode it last night but there's still a couple issues.
1. I have a difficult time finding neutral. I can shift down to 1st but when I click up to neutral it pops into 2nd too easily. Any suggestions on finding the right sweet spot?
2. It runs nice with no throttle but once I give it gas it pops and doesn't have much power. I know that I have short pipes and cheap air pods. But while adjusting the carbs with the adjuster screw with the special screwdriver, it doesn't matter which direction I turn the screw, nothing changes.
3. When I put my feet up on the foot pegs I get cramps in my hips, is there an adjustment for that? No? I'm just getting old? oh ok.
 
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