Skip the banjo in custom break lines?

I need to get some custom brake lines soon. I have picked spiegler as the vendor. I was thinking since I'm running mono blocks in both builds why not skip the banjo on the caliphs end and directly screw into the cable to the caliper. I'm not going to lose much cable directing that way.

Just seeing if there is an engineering reason to keep the banjo other than the ability to swivel and install easier.

So if you don't use a banjo fitting, what will you use in its place? If you can come up with a fitting that will replace the banjo bolt that is direct connect to the line, you could screw it in and be done, but the other end would have to have a swiveling fastening or there will be a twist in the line. Lines that have banjo fittings on both ends can simply bolt on without spinning the line as long as they are oriented on the line at the right angles to each other. I am not sure what your goal is, but you can have lines made up where the permanent end fitting is the banjo so you have the minimum number of parts. Usually the best plan is to determine the line routing for best function and then use whatever fittings accommodate that plan. There is an engineering reason to use banjo fittings, though it seems often ignored. If you make a fitting that attaches the line axially to the threads - that is the line screws into the caliper like the banjo bolt did, there is a tendency for the line to try to loosen the threaded connection because the line can twist back and forth as the machinery moves. This happens with the banjo fitting as well, but the twisting line is at 90 degrees to the axis the banjo bolt, so it is not affected. Of course if you have a line that threads on to the banjo you have the same situation anyway. There are usually numerous ways to plumb any hydraulic system - banjos are used plenty often just for clearance or alignment reasons. There is no hydraulic reason in your braking system to use or not use the banjo fitting, but the swiveling and installation considerations are pretty important. Remember Murphy - If it is easy to fix, it never breaks. Make it hard to work on, and you will be compelled to work on it a lot!

The only problem I've found is you lose the brake switch.
Use a hydrualic switch banjo bolt from Ducati or eBay
You do have to figure out the correct assembly angles to prevent twist though

You can go directly into the caliper body with the Speigler line. Speiglers if I recall (I have them on my BMW) allow the lines to turn on the fittings even after they're tightened down.

Up at the master cylinder, as mentioned it will have to do with brake light switches. If the switch is pressure based and inline somewhere on the brake line (like bolted to the lower tree as is the case on some) then you need 2 lines to keep using it or you need a different switch like a banjo mounted one up at the MC.

Some MC's have a simple mechanical brake light switch. If that's the case, then one nice neat simple brake line all the way from MC to caliper. I'd keep a banjo bolt up top, as it makes angling the brake line a little easier to get the perfect smooth turns.

Thanks guys. Good feedback. Ya Tim is right, spiegler offers the direct connection.

I spose I need to decide on the cable types top. Caliper shared, double to master, y cable which will dominantly effect the decision too.

Ya I didn't think about the rear with no banjo. I do have mini rear brake micro switches but the banjo switch is good too just adds a bunch of extra height tho.