1984 Yamaha FJ 600- Rise of "The Mighty Jig"

I see there are a number of Dynojet kits on ebay for under $100, not including shipping. For the record, the kit number should be: #4107 for the Mikuni BS32 carbs.
As for the rebuild kit, K&L "economy" kit number 18-5105 is what their site says to use. I'm a bit leary about anyone who mates up my FJ with a kit that does not disclose the kit number, or the designated carbs that the kit is designed for. K&L does NOT have a kit in their 2011 catalog that also has any jets, so by default, the Dynojet kit will be ordered as well, even though, back in the day, I know for certain that a Dynojet kit is/was installed in my carbs from day 1, but it'd probably be in my best interest to replace them by this point, since I bought the bike in 1992.
 
I have paused progress on my projects so that I can finally get my garage organized. I went from this:
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by way of a floor coating kit...to this:
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a bit better organized...but still not great;
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the "Scrapple II" Honda CB550, on hold:
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And the star of this thread;
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other artifacts:
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Luvin' this thread. The rust in the tank and cruddy carbs are very familiar. This FJ seems somewhat similar to my '93 XJ600 Seca II cafe project. Got it from my son-in-law. Sat for six or seven years - allegedly, the engine had seized. Not so. I got it to spin over when I try to start it, but so far no spark. It's been sitting again while I've been playing with my V-Star.


Keep up the good work. This may be the motivation I need to get back to it.
 
Project not dead, far from it. Bit the bullet on listing the "Scrapple" project on CL, and it may go this weekend. If so, well, any and all procees will go into finishing The Mighty Jig. I bought a used Flasher relay on ebay recently, and that seems to have cured the intermittent electrical issues. Still I have a ways to go, including, yes, the carbs, stiffening up the replacement fairing I bought, sorting out brakes, replacing all of the bushings in the rear swingarm, a new shock, fork seals (have), new tires (stalking on ebay and Amazon, of all places), and getting a new seat cover. The stripped bar-end weights are still firmly in place and will need to be gone if i'm ever going to be able to put new grips on it.

In other news, I had finally gotten its long lost Pennsyltuckey title in a the mail and on 12/28/22, lest I have to pay any 2011 Virginia Property taxes, it now has a clear, clean and legal Virginia title.

Have a little faith, my brothers and sisters.
 
Some pictures to chew on...

Yeah...I've had enough of this particular 'rasslin match;
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Credit to one of my GF's old BF. He left a saws-all behind. Thanks babe!
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The bar to go with it;
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it's $9 ebay replacement;
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Some Simple Green
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Works wonders!
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Do dealerships still put their sticker on bikes after servicing?
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I must have weighed a ton to be able to do this...
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Really...the fork seals are still good.....but I know, I know....
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No comment.
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Coming soon from ebay:
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OEM price is about $126
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OEM price for the missing damper is over $9!!!
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Maybe....there's a lot of them nearby at the local junkyard..

Cool stuff to go in....
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My replacement fairing, needing a little TLC to firm up a few areas, waiting patiently in my loft:
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The forks, of which I have new seals, a seal tool, and a service manual. I'll get to these once the front wheel bearings are out and replaced. Only one problem with that...,

I CAN'T GET THE FREAKING OLD BEARINGS OUT (yet)
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What you're looking at right here is actual progress. Still it took one trip to Sears (for the wring kind of puller) and one trip to Harbor Freight (for the right puller). At the end of the day, with exception to the 20-year old Metzler that still is on it, the front wheel has all new bearings and hey, cleaned up pretty well (Simple Green...again)
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Onto the next phase, which is dissassembling the forks, something I have never done before. There's the 17mm hex cap bolt that, once undone, all hell breaks loose;
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And the impact bit and torque wrench that loosened it:
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Shown is the lower for brace. What is a good way of cleaning this up, i.e. getting rid of that yellowish patina. Is that the aluminium's original clear coat, or what? I'll take suggestions.
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bring it back to life. Nice to see a bike restored by its Owner from back in the day rather than buying a bike from the previous owner and restoring it like every other build.
 
After MUCH light-sanding and MOTHER'S polish, the fork brace looks much better....which also means I've just opened a can of worms in regards to refurbushing all of the other aluminum parts on this old girl:
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use it, love it, live it. The passenger grab rail will be addressed in due time:
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The first of the ones I truly don't remember ordering;
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which means, later today I get to 'rassle this.....something I've never done before either:
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Ok...Update time. Work throughout March and most of April was ZERO due to an ongoing personal issue regarding my soon-to-be-ex, my AWESOME daughter, and lawyers. Understandable to say the least.

First up, or, er, off: the steering stem/triple tree: I had to elist some help to get the lower bearing race off.
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And how it looks this morning in my outdoor rattle can paint booth:
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When the paint is dry, I'll be able to continue to put the FRONT back together:
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Forks have new seals...finally
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And an All-balls kit is ready to go in as well:
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While the forks were out, and, well, I needed to take out some frustration, I started taking apart the rear wheel. Needless to say, it's a mess back here:
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Really:
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That's about 20 years of grime on there. Can you say PRESSURE WASHER??
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PROGRESS: Cleaned up the rear socket and boot assembly:
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And earlier last week, the fairing-stay gor a new coat of Krylon:
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And I'm keeping everything else organized...to an extent with these bins I got at Home Depot for $1 each:
Handlebar assembly bin:
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Triple tree and forks bin:
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Rear Wheel bin:
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And the rear wheel itself (not cleaned or devoid of its crustry old Dunlop yet)
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And no project thread is completer without a shot of a rusty old chain...which, with exception of MAYBE a few bushings, fittings, and other odd lots is the only thing MAJOR that I need to replace anytime soon:
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OK, maybe brake pads and replacment lines...but no, really, that's all I need, I swear:
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Thanks for looking
 
Nice work, I am about to attempt my first tire change, fork oil change etc. on my 79 GL1000. Let us know how it goes for you on those tires. Amazing what a little wet sand and mothers can do for crusty aluminum. Give it at least a few coats of car wax or if you can find it a product called sharkskin can protect it really well. I am still trying to obtain an bottle of that for my polished bits. I spent hours on it and with the weather around me it will look terrible in a couple days if I don't do something to protect it.

Cheers
 
Lookin good so far!


The secret to tires is making sure the opposite side of the bead stays down in the well of the wheel when you spoon it off/on the rim.
That and a dash of soapy water.


An extra pair of hands helps a LOT if you can get them.
 
I also read to be careful with what brand/kind of soap as some is caustic/acidic and can eat holes in alloy wheels. Cause slow leaks and inproper beat seating. I bought tire intallation lube designed to be safe on all types of metal wheels. it was 6 bucks for a lifetime supply.
 
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