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Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
These are really taking off again.
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Yeah, I would try so hard to lay it down and hope for no high side, but they don't send you an email before they jump out of the ditch.
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
Yep, I was hard on the brakes and got her down to about 20 mph when the deer bolted across and hit the side of the tire. Stupid asshole good for nothing animals, well good for eating, oh and I am going to try and make my new seat cover from deer hide leather as payback ;D
MotorbikeBruno
Over 1,000 Posts
Maritime said:Got this to use parts to fix my 79:
What a 200 lb doe does to a 600 lb motorcycle when it hits it head first in the front wheel. See the bent comstar that split her head wide open
So...are you going to use the NEW bike....I'm not sure it's worth it to move everything over if you know the other bike is in good shape. Unless of course you don't have papers
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
MotorbikeBruno said:So...are you going to use the NEW bike....I'm not sure it's worth it to move everything over if you know the other bike is in good shape. Unless of course you don't have papers
I like my Motor and gearing better than the 1100. I have papers for the new bike but would have to pay about $150 to put in my name. no cost to use my frame. Also I want the naked bike, so pulling parts off the bagger will be easier. Unless my frame is damaged, I am using it, if it is buggered I have the 1100 and then I decide witch motor, final drive etc, I want.
A friend of a friend hit a deer on his Goldie. Got the bike completely stopped while still upright with the deer still wedged on the front of the bike. After he stopped the deer came to and started thrashing and knocked it over on him and broke his leg. He made it through hitting the deer OK, but got hurt after the bike was stopped. That's some just plain bad luckTune-A-Fish said:
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Oh dang! Ive heard of deer going through windshields and thrashing people to death, and I towed a pickup that a guy hit an elk and it went through, impaled the guy with a horn, but he lived to talk.
SoyBoySigh
Been Around the Block
Beautiful Pair O' 'WINGS there. Oh how I LOVES me a good NEKKID WING CAFE....
Hey I hope it isn't necessary to come out and tell you to avoid the crash-damaged chassis? Move everything over - it's a good opportunity to bead-blast and clear-coat the engine (seen some lovely Sand-Cast SOHC engine cases done like that - might it even have been original?) AND do the frame. That Guzzi site with all of the cheezy silicone tits, thong underwear and hairspray overkill in their "Guzzi Girls" section (Sorry, I might have grown up in the '80s, but I was into the punk-rock GRRRLz from the get-go - So while the razor's out? Gimme a shaved HEAD to look at while you're about it!) Cough - The GUZZI site sez that their powder-coat with laquer paint sprayed over-TOP of it, is supposed to last the life of the bike. Sounds like it would add some weight ha-ha, but it actually looks pretty good. DAMN though, I love me some Nekkid 'Wings!
Hey - I love me some Comstars but they need widening - So if you're gonna use the Comstar rims, check out Akront "NERVI" rims. I've posted about 'em on the cb1100f.net site just recently. Some VERY cool upgrades to the basic Comstar package! I shouldn't even yap about it until I get the rims for MY bike first! But yeah - let's say you've got the GL1100 and you wanna stick some wire-spoke wheels on it? Check out the weld-up HUB method, done on a CB900C (same rear end and diff, wheel hub etc, as the GL1100 so worth referencing!) over on the cb750c.com 'Custom-munity/'Custom-mutiny - by a member known as "6pkrunner"! The shaft hub is spooled down to a plug on the lathe, then a drum hub is hollowed out from side-to-side, and then a fillet weld sticks 'em together on both sides. Maybe even some Solder-Braze material to fill in any hollows? If you're worried about alignment, drill holes along the center-line of both hubs, maybe even tap 'em? The Comstar hub aligns the center of the "lugs" to the center of the rim. So too with the wire-spoke version, the cooling rings at the center of the SOHC drum are centered with the rim also. So those holes line up, say at least three of 'em, and you're ready to weld it up. Heck the bolts could even stay in there if you weren't too fussy. The thing which most appeals to ME, other than the future use of this method for a Sabre/Magna based homage to the CZ Type 860 that I wanna build NEXT, is that a hub like this even has applications on a CHAIN-DRIVE bike, just so long as it gives you a light-weight rear hub. HOW? Well for starters, don't use the 190mm drum for the circumference! What else has 40-holes? There's a KZ400 rear hub with flanges a wee bit smaller, IIRC the drum's only 180mm though it might be 160mm - maybe that's only the 36-hole version.....
(((I really ought to know the difference, as besides my "CB900K0 Bol Bomber", my OTHER build is a "KZ440LOL" - and they BOTH have a wire-wheel swap using OEM hubs - and I'm building both 40-spoke AND 36-spoke rear hubs for the KZ....)))
Just sayin' - when you get into a wire-wheel swap for a bigger bike, and you want a rear disc, a 20mm axle AND a cush-drive? There isn't much out there besides these absolute boat anchor hubs such as this here CB750F1, the KZ1000LTD & 48-hole version off KZ1000CSR, plus GS1000, and modern stuff off of cruisers, or the modern wire-spoke CB1100 with it's cruiser-esque rear hub with the high spoke count. What IS that spoke count, by the way? Well - let's just say that Honda really fucked up, right?
But yeah - think of how it's much like the Kosman RIM widening method, but not only on a smller scale, but also requires far less accuracy due to the wire-spokes themselves straightening out the wheel's run-out - If Kosman wheels were on average $500 USD per wheel, could it not then be possible to do rear hub conversions on an exchange-basis for somewhere around $200-$300 for that rear hub? And then use some standard sizes and spoke lacings, so as to apply an economy of scale to rims and spoke sets, the like of which only HARLEY owners and dirt-bike enthusiasts now enjoy??? Just think of it - you could put spoke wheels on ANYTHING. More to the point - EVERYTHING!
But hey - if you're a Comstar enthusiast, I've got a line on 3.00x18" Akront NERVI rims, in either silver or gold anodize. New old stock mind you, as Akront is now MORAD, right? I just haven't snapped one up 'cause I haven't yet found a 4.25x18" to match it. OR a 3.50x18", 'cause the wheel-sets I'm building for my 985 are 2.50x18" & 3.50x18", as well as 3.00x18" with 4.25x18", as well as a THIRD set using 3.50x16" with yet another 4.25x18" just to keep things interesting. I've got probably another dozen FAT odd-ball Aluminum rims on hand too, all of 'em would make some fantastic wheels sets for the likes of a DOHC-four or a WING for that matter! 40-hole Super-Moto rims in 4.25x17" & 5.00x17" - ah, but they're drilled for the HARLEY rear hub, so while they're good for a chain-drive, a shaft would be a tricky application. Would be awesome on a 'Wing though......
ANYWAY YEAH - I was talking about the NERVI rims - that's what got me started on the 4.25x18" tangent:
'Cause here's the stats you wanna keep in mind here. I took a stock Black/Reverse five-point Comstar CB900F rear wheel apart, and it's D.I.D. 2.50x18" rim weighs the same as the Akront 40-hole 4.25x18" rim. If we're to guess at how much heavier a 5.00x18" is, and assume that a 2.50x18" is approximately half of that? It's probably safe to say the Akront is half the weight of the D.I.D. Comstar five-point hollow-shouldered rim. And the "Boomerang" type in the same size 2.50x18" front wheel is plenty heavier than the 2.15x19" front I've got on hand - pretty safe to say, even just from gauging the thickness of these non- hollow shouldered Boomerang type rims are a LOT heavier than the five-point type. Which is to say, even if you can't lay hands on an Aront NERVI for the front wheel, a five-point 2.75x18" from a rear pro-link CBX wheel would be a lighter option than that stock Boomerang front in 2.50x18" - and the GL1100A 2.50x18" Black/Reverse Comstar front wheel is probably the best for both front AND rear wheels. Well - I don't wanna type out my ENTIRE "Comstar Manifesto" right here - it's over on the CB1100F.net site if a person wants to know ALL of my thoughts on the subject!
Suffice it to say - WELD-UP HUBS, and AKRONT NERVI RIMS - perhaps even both of 'em put together?
OH - and lest I forget? "WING THING" RICKMAN CHASSIS with prototype GL1000 engine from 1972-1973, and it's follow-up incarnation as a SIDE-CAR RACER, subsequent restoration -AS well as the Swiss "DLF" or "DONQUE" '75 GL1000 based ENDURANCE RACER which ran in the '76 BOL D'OR as well as other events - "Wing Thing" ran qualifying laps in the IOMTT how's THAT for changing people's image of the Goldwing???
Ah, yes - and one last seed I'd wish to plant in the ears of any & all 'Wing owners, is my idea for my "CB900K0 Bol Bomber" - of using the GL1500 front end with a "HUB" from the PC800 Pacific Coast, for a "Faux-Leading-Shoe" fake drum hub! What better place to use it than on a Racing 'Wing?
-Sigh.
Hey I hope it isn't necessary to come out and tell you to avoid the crash-damaged chassis? Move everything over - it's a good opportunity to bead-blast and clear-coat the engine (seen some lovely Sand-Cast SOHC engine cases done like that - might it even have been original?) AND do the frame. That Guzzi site with all of the cheezy silicone tits, thong underwear and hairspray overkill in their "Guzzi Girls" section (Sorry, I might have grown up in the '80s, but I was into the punk-rock GRRRLz from the get-go - So while the razor's out? Gimme a shaved HEAD to look at while you're about it!) Cough - The GUZZI site sez that their powder-coat with laquer paint sprayed over-TOP of it, is supposed to last the life of the bike. Sounds like it would add some weight ha-ha, but it actually looks pretty good. DAMN though, I love me some Nekkid 'Wings!
Hey - I love me some Comstars but they need widening - So if you're gonna use the Comstar rims, check out Akront "NERVI" rims. I've posted about 'em on the cb1100f.net site just recently. Some VERY cool upgrades to the basic Comstar package! I shouldn't even yap about it until I get the rims for MY bike first! But yeah - let's say you've got the GL1100 and you wanna stick some wire-spoke wheels on it? Check out the weld-up HUB method, done on a CB900C (same rear end and diff, wheel hub etc, as the GL1100 so worth referencing!) over on the cb750c.com 'Custom-munity/'Custom-mutiny - by a member known as "6pkrunner"! The shaft hub is spooled down to a plug on the lathe, then a drum hub is hollowed out from side-to-side, and then a fillet weld sticks 'em together on both sides. Maybe even some Solder-Braze material to fill in any hollows? If you're worried about alignment, drill holes along the center-line of both hubs, maybe even tap 'em? The Comstar hub aligns the center of the "lugs" to the center of the rim. So too with the wire-spoke version, the cooling rings at the center of the SOHC drum are centered with the rim also. So those holes line up, say at least three of 'em, and you're ready to weld it up. Heck the bolts could even stay in there if you weren't too fussy. The thing which most appeals to ME, other than the future use of this method for a Sabre/Magna based homage to the CZ Type 860 that I wanna build NEXT, is that a hub like this even has applications on a CHAIN-DRIVE bike, just so long as it gives you a light-weight rear hub. HOW? Well for starters, don't use the 190mm drum for the circumference! What else has 40-holes? There's a KZ400 rear hub with flanges a wee bit smaller, IIRC the drum's only 180mm though it might be 160mm - maybe that's only the 36-hole version.....
(((I really ought to know the difference, as besides my "CB900K0 Bol Bomber", my OTHER build is a "KZ440LOL" - and they BOTH have a wire-wheel swap using OEM hubs - and I'm building both 40-spoke AND 36-spoke rear hubs for the KZ....)))
Just sayin' - when you get into a wire-wheel swap for a bigger bike, and you want a rear disc, a 20mm axle AND a cush-drive? There isn't much out there besides these absolute boat anchor hubs such as this here CB750F1, the KZ1000LTD & 48-hole version off KZ1000CSR, plus GS1000, and modern stuff off of cruisers, or the modern wire-spoke CB1100 with it's cruiser-esque rear hub with the high spoke count. What IS that spoke count, by the way? Well - let's just say that Honda really fucked up, right?
But yeah - think of how it's much like the Kosman RIM widening method, but not only on a smller scale, but also requires far less accuracy due to the wire-spokes themselves straightening out the wheel's run-out - If Kosman wheels were on average $500 USD per wheel, could it not then be possible to do rear hub conversions on an exchange-basis for somewhere around $200-$300 for that rear hub? And then use some standard sizes and spoke lacings, so as to apply an economy of scale to rims and spoke sets, the like of which only HARLEY owners and dirt-bike enthusiasts now enjoy??? Just think of it - you could put spoke wheels on ANYTHING. More to the point - EVERYTHING!
But hey - if you're a Comstar enthusiast, I've got a line on 3.00x18" Akront NERVI rims, in either silver or gold anodize. New old stock mind you, as Akront is now MORAD, right? I just haven't snapped one up 'cause I haven't yet found a 4.25x18" to match it. OR a 3.50x18", 'cause the wheel-sets I'm building for my 985 are 2.50x18" & 3.50x18", as well as 3.00x18" with 4.25x18", as well as a THIRD set using 3.50x16" with yet another 4.25x18" just to keep things interesting. I've got probably another dozen FAT odd-ball Aluminum rims on hand too, all of 'em would make some fantastic wheels sets for the likes of a DOHC-four or a WING for that matter! 40-hole Super-Moto rims in 4.25x17" & 5.00x17" - ah, but they're drilled for the HARLEY rear hub, so while they're good for a chain-drive, a shaft would be a tricky application. Would be awesome on a 'Wing though......
ANYWAY YEAH - I was talking about the NERVI rims - that's what got me started on the 4.25x18" tangent:
'Cause here's the stats you wanna keep in mind here. I took a stock Black/Reverse five-point Comstar CB900F rear wheel apart, and it's D.I.D. 2.50x18" rim weighs the same as the Akront 40-hole 4.25x18" rim. If we're to guess at how much heavier a 5.00x18" is, and assume that a 2.50x18" is approximately half of that? It's probably safe to say the Akront is half the weight of the D.I.D. Comstar five-point hollow-shouldered rim. And the "Boomerang" type in the same size 2.50x18" front wheel is plenty heavier than the 2.15x19" front I've got on hand - pretty safe to say, even just from gauging the thickness of these non- hollow shouldered Boomerang type rims are a LOT heavier than the five-point type. Which is to say, even if you can't lay hands on an Aront NERVI for the front wheel, a five-point 2.75x18" from a rear pro-link CBX wheel would be a lighter option than that stock Boomerang front in 2.50x18" - and the GL1100A 2.50x18" Black/Reverse Comstar front wheel is probably the best for both front AND rear wheels. Well - I don't wanna type out my ENTIRE "Comstar Manifesto" right here - it's over on the CB1100F.net site if a person wants to know ALL of my thoughts on the subject!
Suffice it to say - WELD-UP HUBS, and AKRONT NERVI RIMS - perhaps even both of 'em put together?
OH - and lest I forget? "WING THING" RICKMAN CHASSIS with prototype GL1000 engine from 1972-1973, and it's follow-up incarnation as a SIDE-CAR RACER, subsequent restoration -AS well as the Swiss "DLF" or "DONQUE" '75 GL1000 based ENDURANCE RACER which ran in the '76 BOL D'OR as well as other events - "Wing Thing" ran qualifying laps in the IOMTT how's THAT for changing people's image of the Goldwing???
Ah, yes - and one last seed I'd wish to plant in the ears of any & all 'Wing owners, is my idea for my "CB900K0 Bol Bomber" - of using the GL1500 front end with a "HUB" from the PC800 Pacific Coast, for a "Faux-Leading-Shoe" fake drum hub! What better place to use it than on a Racing 'Wing?
-Sigh.
$40 for a set of GL1000 pipes from my local yard. Much lighter than stock.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
wow that is wild, manJ-Rod10 said:A dreamer. Custom built solid chunk of carbide drill/ream combo.
3 steps ? a rthropugh hole how thick ? what meat is being worked ?
baby steps eh? it looks like less tha .2" dia? what keeps ot from chatering/singing on the final ? or is it nosing into a drill bushing on the exit ?or just go slomo on the final size cut
Hey, good uncle henry got rid of those whistling pea shooters.xb33bsa said:
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
I think a family of squirrels lives in them turnouts.
.110 on the drill for .625, .125 on the reamer for .625. Running it at 670rpm on 6061. Run it through no problem, no chatter. Dowel pins fit night and tight, not walking any.xb33bsa said:
https://youtu.be/xDcWKIfmsIs
No squirrels, but they are baffled. They'll clean up nice too.xb33bsa said:
