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The exhaust isn't stock, but it doesn't sound too far off from what my stock 360 sounds like. The noises you can check easiest are valve tappet adjusters and the cam chain tension.
Good to hear - yeah the mufflers that were on it when I bought it were from a Yamaha of some kind...but it was mostly rust. Headers were in good shape though.
I went back through (cam chain adjustment, valve heights, timing) - made sure I was on the compression stroke (felt pressure coming from the spark plug hole) for valve height and timing.
It cranks on the first kick and idles at just over 1K. Could it be that I have set the valve height too high? I did a tight .004 on the exhaust side valve and a tight .003 on the intake side.
I went back in again, this time setting the valve clearance barely high enough to fit the .003 and .002 feeler gauges in there. It didn't want to really get up to idle speed, so I pulled the carbs to do another bench sync tonight. But from what I could hear (didn't record to compare) a lot of the knocking/tapping went away.
I guess I was just nervous about setting them too tight.
I bench-synced the carbs last night, put them back on the bike - but had to wait until this morning to crank it up. The idle is a bit higher (by about 800 rpm) - I just didn't have time to dial it in before leaving for work. Here is a comparison of the two (first half is the original, the second half is with the valves adjusted more tightly).
A barely sliding 0.002" and 0.003" clearance is right. (intake at 2, ex at 3)
On the 'close up' it sounds pretty normal to me but when you were at ignition switch it sounded a little 'clicky'?
It kinda 'rustles' rather than tick and click so cam chain tension should be good.
Sounds pretty right to me, its hard to diagnose valve sound from cell phone video since those microphones are designed to exaggerate higher frequencies, often times making valves sound clickier than they are.
A good vac sync should help iron out any idle issues.
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