Turbo on my 81 550

If you want a high volume and pressure pump hit up your local pick a part and see if one of the sports car units would work for u, and I've messed with Gm one in the past go up to 60 psi some Bette units go as high as 80 wouldn't be hard for fora good welder to put in tank for u. Also with that run a loop bypass with an cooler built in it
 
DeanJ said:
Draw through is easier to tune... just sayin
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Actually, it isn't. The only advantage draw through has is ease of installation. Draw though usually only works at WOT and is an OK choice for a drag bike. If you want a streetable turbo on a bike it's blow through, EFI, or go home.
 
stevenfrye said:
Hey thx for the info, im only using the t3 because it was only 100$. Still info is hard to come by in a clear and easaly understood way. Right now im fabbing everything up to have proof of concept.
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I got a bridge I wanna sell you, you REALLY need it
Get a baby IHI if you have to waste time fitting a turbo, they come on 800cc Kubota mini excavators among other things (Suzuki 'Swift'?)
EFI runs at 42psi or more, carb pump is usually max 7psi
 
I really, really want to see this work. My buddies dad has a factory turbo cx500 and that thing sounded cooler then anything else i've ridden (handling is scary though she's top heavy.) One thing few people consider is the electrical requirements of a fuel pump; the jegs pump referenced above is gonna pull almost 75watts, and it needs to be running all the time.
 
johnson_steve said:
I really, really want to see this work. My buddies dad has a factory turbo cx500 and that thing sounded cooler then anything else i've ridden (handling is scary though she's top heavy.) One thing few people consider is the electrical requirements of a fuel pump; the jegs pump referenced above is gonna pull almost 75watts, and it needs to be running all the time.
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Yup. That's why my bike is getting two alternators:
552994_10151446852680159_754471422_n.jpg


220 watts.
 
Holy fried wire harness batman, how in the world dod you manage that. I havent tought of upgrading the electrics.
 
Well... first you need to track down a second rotor and stator. Then you cut down the rotors to reduce their weight:
553011_10151446852575159_2128965601_n.jpg


Then you drill and tap the holes in the rotors so that you can bolt one to the other:
46793_10151446852670159_578967073_n.jpg


Get some standoffs to correctly space the outside stator on the outside rotor:
552994_10151446852680159_754471422_n.jpg


Next, have a friend with some machining skills and a chunk of aluminum turn you down a spacer for the stator cover:
578613_10151277797560159_1562104941_n.jpg


644033_10151277797635159_104052668_n.jpg


Finally, wire in a couple of regulator/rectifiers (one for each alternator) and then splice the outputs into your harness:
58790_10151596229475159_987035453_n.jpg


Piece of cake. ;)
 
I bow to the master ;D, Can I borrow your method to do the same to my bike, and if possible a wire scematic. I would like to try and add to a mod using GM HEI modules. And with that much juice how are you going to moderate your timing and such, since your going EFI are you switching over to a CDI set up? On a side note two questions oil drain location, the first one and obvoius local would be the oil fill port. and two (i dont know if this unique to kawi 550 motor US model) the case breather dome on top of the tranny section. Im leaning in the direction of the breather dome because i want to fit an oil temp dipstick type to the oil fill port hole.
 
Decided to yank motor from frame and start from scratch, if this beastie is going to end up being my track bike motor might as well quit BS'ing around and do right. Ive decided to route my oil drain into the breather port for the case. Pictures to follow once I start ( I have to build a stand for the motor first). But I do have a few pics of the rear sets I fabbed up, Ill post once Im home again Im stuck on the Night shift again.
 
stevenfrye said:
Ive decided to route my oil drain into the breather port for the case.
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That's an exceedingly bad idea. The breather port exists to so that excess pressures can escape the crank case. Sending that kind of pressure into your turbo's oil system is not a recipe for success.
 
Noted to oil fill port then :) time to mod the fill cap then woo hoo fun stuff hahah. Upon more research I think im going to plumb the return directly into the cluch and case cover near the sight glass. And a bit of an odd question: oiling the turbo upon start up, Ive heard of some of the street racer comunity putting a very low pressure check valve directly on the bottom of the turbo to retain oil in the turbo core after cooldown and shut down? Pleas dont mind me Im picking brains being this is my first big bike build.
 
Oil return needs to be lower than the oil level rather than just gravity feed back to sump.
Air pressure above oil will resrict return feed
 
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