Drag bars aren't nearly as comfortable as a superbike bar. Look at Renthal road low bars.
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1978 Suzuki GS750 racer project
- Thread starter Weasel
- Start date
Weasel
3rd generation rider
Thanks lchris. Don't know if I have the skills & tools/equipment to get close to Luke's but I have some high personal standards and will try my best.
Canyon, I've heard good things about the superbike bars. Not sure how much comfort & cafe go together but I guess every little bit helps. We'll see how it works out.
Got the ignition push button sorted out and working now. Won't have to bring myself to the brink of a heart attack now kicking this thing while I work on getting it running properly. Video:
Canyon, I've heard good things about the superbike bars. Not sure how much comfort & cafe go together but I guess every little bit helps. We'll see how it works out.
Got the ignition push button sorted out and working now. Won't have to bring myself to the brink of a heart attack now kicking this thing while I work on getting it running properly. Video:
Weasel
3rd generation rider
I assembled, charged and installed a new AGM battery. Needed a break from electrical work so I tackled the front end. Disassembly was pleasantly, surprisingly easy. There's really not much to these old front ends. Trying to decide if I want to try painting the lower legs myself or try out the powder coat shop in the next town over. I have a small sprayer here that I have experience with spraying epoxy wood finishes but I have very little painting experience beyond rattle cans.
It was nice to finally lose that bulky gauge cluster. I'll have to order a set of fork seals, wheel & steering bearings and have them ready once I clean and either paint or powder coat all the front end bits. Anyone have any tips or encouragement for a DIY paint job? She's starting to really drop weight now!
It was nice to finally lose that bulky gauge cluster. I'll have to order a set of fork seals, wheel & steering bearings and have them ready once I clean and either paint or powder coat all the front end bits. Anyone have any tips or encouragement for a DIY paint job? She's starting to really drop weight now!
DIY paint job...............Mmm?
I always fancied painting mine myself and did hell of a lot of research before committing. Glad I had a go, but it didn't quite work out for me, but a good learning experience. If you've got the space (I didn't) and the time (its surprising how long it takes to get a decent result for a first timer) and the proper gear then go for it. I tried to use the NON-isocyanate paint and clearcoat, but had problems.
I'd definitely have a go again, but using the correct 2K poisonous stuff and invest in the correct PPE to use it......
I always fancied painting mine myself and did hell of a lot of research before committing. Glad I had a go, but it didn't quite work out for me, but a good learning experience. If you've got the space (I didn't) and the time (its surprising how long it takes to get a decent result for a first timer) and the proper gear then go for it. I tried to use the NON-isocyanate paint and clearcoat, but had problems.
I'd definitely have a go again, but using the correct 2K poisonous stuff and invest in the correct PPE to use it......
kiwiguy
Been Around the Block
my two cents worth Weasel, give anything a go once, twice if you like it. Like Ichris21 said, look into it first. A few points to note IMOP (and I am no painter) painting the lower of the legs add two factors, 1 if these are alloy you have to apply different keys/primers to successfully get the paint to stick and 2, as these are the first point of contact any little marks or chips that could occur from riding will open up if step 1 is not carried out 100%! My vote would be get the legs coated, paint the frame (steel)
Weasel
3rd generation rider
Appreciate the input gentlemen. After thinking about it, the powder coat will certainly hold up better to road debris so for $100 US I am going to go that route. Whew, those fork seals were seriously neglected. Got a free workout trying to pry those things out. Any suggestions on what to soak these things in to degrease for powder coating? I usually use Simple Green for those jobs.
The original Showa sticker is still on one of the legs.
Guess I need to think about colors now. I'll make some copies of a sketch I did and try to steal my kids colored pencils. I'm thinking a lot of black, shiny & matte, with some red & silver.
I'm sort of partial to black ;D
The original Showa sticker is still on one of the legs.
Guess I need to think about colors now. I'll make some copies of a sketch I did and try to steal my kids colored pencils. I'm thinking a lot of black, shiny & matte, with some red & silver.
I'm sort of partial to black ;D
kiwiguy
Been Around the Block
I would talk to the coaters as to what they would prefer to be used. You might find they don't like some chemicals to be used for some reason. If you run it by them you can't go wrong.
And those seals looked like an absolute bugger to do!! A few beers always makes the job easier
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And those seals looked like an absolute bugger to do!! A few beers always makes the job easier
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NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
What Kiwi states is correct.
I wouldn't rely on the p/coaters to remove any blemishes or scars on the item. It all depends on the deal with them really I suppose. If they have agreed to a final prepared finish for their $100 then fine, but in my experience I'd take care to remove anything you don't want yourself and hand them the item as you'd want it to be or they just might coat it and be done (they're not like chrome platers)?
Also, take care with final masking of threads etc. Run an old bolt into a thread or a rolled up piece of masking tape,don't count on them to do this as you'll be the one cleaning threads not them.
Try and tie pieces together so they don't get lost or mislaid, from what I gather coaters/platers are notorious for losing important items.
Good luck.
I wouldn't rely on the p/coaters to remove any blemishes or scars on the item. It all depends on the deal with them really I suppose. If they have agreed to a final prepared finish for their $100 then fine, but in my experience I'd take care to remove anything you don't want yourself and hand them the item as you'd want it to be or they just might coat it and be done (they're not like chrome platers)?
Also, take care with final masking of threads etc. Run an old bolt into a thread or a rolled up piece of masking tape,don't count on them to do this as you'll be the one cleaning threads not them.
Try and tie pieces together so they don't get lost or mislaid, from what I gather coaters/platers are notorious for losing important items.
Good luck.
Weasel
3rd generation rider
Thanks for the input, good advice. I got these Q&As from their web site:
Does powder coating require any preparation? The key to a long lasting powder coat finish is in the preparation of the metal. Our shop takes great care in the preparation process. We blast each part down to bare metal thus creating a rough surface assuring good adhesion and consistent powder flow. Each piece is then washed down with a chemical cleaner to assure that all additives are removed from the surface. We then pre-bake each piece to purge trapped moisture, oils and gasses that cause reactions in the finish. Without special preparation, the durability of a powder coated part may be no better than a painted piece.
What do I need to do to prepare my piece for you? The parts we receive in our shop must be totally disassembled and degreased.
I'll be dropping my parts off in person and I will ask a lot of questions so I'm clear on what to expect.
Does powder coating require any preparation? The key to a long lasting powder coat finish is in the preparation of the metal. Our shop takes great care in the preparation process. We blast each part down to bare metal thus creating a rough surface assuring good adhesion and consistent powder flow. Each piece is then washed down with a chemical cleaner to assure that all additives are removed from the surface. We then pre-bake each piece to purge trapped moisture, oils and gasses that cause reactions in the finish. Without special preparation, the durability of a powder coated part may be no better than a painted piece.
What do I need to do to prepare my piece for you? The parts we receive in our shop must be totally disassembled and degreased.
I'll be dropping my parts off in person and I will ask a lot of questions so I'm clear on what to expect.
dakota.morgan91
New Member
This is going to be a cool build subbed!
Weasel
3rd generation rider
NoRiders said:
Not 100% sure NoRiders. They have hundreds of colors but no color chart on their web site. I'm hoping they have some colors to look at when I stop there. I don't want to build just another black racer. Maybe some copper, orange or red accents? I personally like 3 colors on a bike when done tastefully. 2 main colors and a 3rd for complimentary accents. A mix of shiny & matte bits can add some depth and character too. I like black, red & silver but it's been done a lot and would take a lot to look original. I've been looking at lots of photos and I still have to play with some colors on my sketches.
dakota.morgan91 said:
Thanks Dakota. I'll try to keep this updated as much as possible.
Weasel
3rd generation rider
Busy week and not much work on the bike. Did think about colors, trying to come up with a scheme before I go to the powder coaters. The original color of this bike was burgundy, which I'm not a big fan of. I am a big fan of builders incorporating the original color somehow in the new project though so I tried to do the same.
Now I'm no artist but this is the first idea I came up with. Not sure about the tank yet but the colors go good together.
Now I'm no artist but this is the first idea I came up with. Not sure about the tank yet but the colors go good together.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
I quite like the two tone....not 100% sure of the rims being coloured though, but that's just me.
Sometimes, a third colour defined as a pinstripe outlining the colour shapes can set it all off nicely. Also, serves to cover the 'join', so much slicker all round.
Of course, that introduces further deliberations as to what bloody colour the stripes are going to be....such is life.
Gold is classic, but other colours can set it apart and still look classy, such as cream/off white maybe?
Sometimes, a third colour defined as a pinstripe outlining the colour shapes can set it all off nicely. Also, serves to cover the 'join', so much slicker all round.
Of course, that introduces further deliberations as to what bloody colour the stripes are going to be....such is life.
Gold is classic, but other colours can set it apart and still look classy, such as cream/off white maybe?
