Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

So winter is coming and I slownly need to figure a few things out with my stock 750.
All going very slowly since I´m currently building my own shed with all the stuff I need for future projects.

Here´s a question for you guys:
My camchain is making a "not smoothly running" noise and I think I need to check the adjustment of the auto-tensioner.
How do I do this?

Am I right to unscrew the cast part (1).Is there a pin like on the XS650 that needs to sit flush?
Does the screw (2) regulate the "stiffness" of the spring?
I guess (3) is the nut to bolt the whole down again.
A little lost here!

Thanks!
 

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#2 is the clamping bolt, so you can take off the adjuster without stripping the threads in the cylinder.

Tightening procedure: losen #2 (and the lock nut), tighten it again. The spring will increase the tension on the camchain guide and the locking bolt will prevent it from swinging back and forth.
 
Basically agree with Greg, but the manual has a slight variation to the procedure.

1. loosen and remove tension cap 1 so you can see the movement of the tension plunger
2. loosen lock nut 3
3. loosen the pinch screw 2
4. turn the motor over and note when the plunger moves in the furthermost
5. With the plunger in the furthermost position, tighten the pinch screw 2, lock with lock nut 3 and replace tension cap 1.

The first time I made the adjustment I was surprised with the amount of movement in the free plunger over 1 revolution. And if you lock the tension plunger without it being fully depressed the engine will be noisier. Learnt from trial and error.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

XS750AU said:
You must have been on tacho red line?
Not bad for a 40 year old bike.
Cheers
Tim
I dont think mine accelerates from 200km/h.. i think thats basically it. Although it only reaches full operating temp when held above 160!

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XS750AU said:
Basically agree with Greg, but the manual has a slight variation to the procedure.

Do as I do and not as I say ;)

Strictly speaking I already did this with Ryan once last year, so strictly speaking he should know how it works, right? ;D
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

datadavid said:
I dont think mine accelerates from 200km/h.. i think thats basically it. Although it only reaches full operating temp when held above 160!

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The last 20kmh from 180 were a bit sketchy since my fairing is not perfectly stabilised it wobbles pretty hard in the wind.
But with the setting screw on the gas grip its a real nice travelling machine with a lot of comfort.
Thinking about mounting for longer trips footrests that are more forward maybe on the frame tubes in the front (yes i´m getting old). ;D
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

I just cut mine off if you want forward pegs! Mine is very stable at speed luckily.. made my own set screw but dont use it much(since i cant seem to stop it overcharging..,)
TranceMachineVienna said:
The last 20kmh from 180 were a bit sketchy since my fairing is not perfectly stabilised it wobbles pretty hard in the wind.
But with the setting screw on the gas grip its a real nice travelling machine with a lot of comfort.
Thinking about mounting for longer trips footrests that are more forward maybe on the frame tubes in the front (yes i´m getting old). ;D

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Finally time to work on my XS 750 project!

I dug out the deeper oil sump and pump togehter with its adapter and plan on running this on my cafe racer engine.
I have a few questions:

How do you guys go about when you button up the bottom of the motor?Is there a way to check the function of the oil pump?
Do I need somehow to "prime" the pump before starting the motor?

My idea was to button it up, fill up the sump with the right amount of oil and then turn the motor over via the starter with no spark plugs and an open top end to see if the reaches the top end.
Would be a bummer to ruin the motor...

Thanks in advance!
 

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I did not prime my pump. Trochoidal pumps seem very forgiving, plus the long funnel stands in oil almost up to the rotors anyway. Still had to kick quite a while before i saw any oil to the top end, a lot of oil galleries to fill i suppose. Didnt have any electrics hooked up then otherwise i would have cranked it on the starter. Eventually i think i will stick a thermostat and bypass on my cooler, as it takes a long time for the oil to heat up now.
Edit: only way i know to test the pump is to hook up a pressure gauge, i have one hanging off a tee from the oil cooler.

TranceMachineVienna said:
Finally time to work on my XS 750 project!

I dug out the deeper oil sump and pump togehter with its adapter and plan on running this on my cafe racer engine.
I have a few questions:

How do you guys go about when you button up the bottom of the motor?Is there a way to check the function of the oil pump?
Do I need somehow to "prime" the pump before starting the motor?

My idea was to button it up, fill up the sump with the right amount of oil and then turn the motor over via the starter with no spark plugs and an open top end to see if the reaches the top end.
Would be a bummer to ruin the motor...

Thanks in advance!
 
Fill the oil with a pressure can "Pressol Kandl" from the union bolt behind the cylinder. On rebuilt TR1 engines, I always try to get some oil into the crank to have some oil in there as well.
 
I have tried to research that, but found no actual answers. Mine takes 4,5l oil before it reaches the oil stick. More than my cars!
TranceMachineVienna said:
Good advice thanks guys!
Do any of you guys know the oil amount of the deeper oil pan (no oil cooler)?
 
TranceMachineVienna said:
Good advice thanks guys!
Do any of you guys know the oil amount of the deeper oil pan (no oil cooler)?

Bottom of the inspection glass, is somewhere around 3 to 3.5L. And you should fit an oil-cooler or drive faster. ;)
(Just kidding, it makes a huge difference in Summer and both the coolers are and the adapter are easy enough to get overhere.)
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

der_nanno said:
Bottom of the inspection glass, is somewhere around 3 to 3.5L. And you should fit an oil-cooler or drive faster. ;)
(Just kidding, it makes a huge difference in Summer and both the coolers are and the adapter are easy enough to get overhere.)
Sounds like i should get a sidecover with a sightglass to save some oil then
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Wow. Now i had a satori here.. i had lower rear shocks last time i changed oil, so the engine was tilting slightly upwards - and the oil stick is in front end of the sump. So my oil would have gathered in the back of the sump, meaning i overfilled quite a lot. No harm done though, would only lube the gearbox a bit extra.
 
Long time no hear guys...the XS is on the go and running every day!

I´m so happy with this bike with all its flaws...I love the big bike feeling and the comfortable rides with my wifey 8) 8) 8)
Still a few things to do after:

Thing I have done in winter (besides restoring my workshop in the basement):

-Front wheel bearing-->completely shot
-New tire front

-Rear tire new
-Blasted and repainted the rear wheel-->completely shot paint

-Front brake serviced
-Pads chamfered

-Oil and oil filter change
-Carbs synched
-Ingition adjusted with flash light

She rides very well...but I need to do:

-New primary chain--->the old one is slack
-Retension the cam chain

Cheers guys!
 
So here we go...

Finally I but the bullet and bought a new primary and can chain.
Replacing the primary was a piece of cake... I did this so many times when I had my clutch problems....
The chain was already hitting all the insides of the engine cases and making the ride pretty slippery....

Next up will be changing the cam chain and checking if the camchain guides are in good condition are badly worn.
Do you guys have advice on how to go about changing the cam chain?
How do I check that the cam timing is right after I installed the chain?

Thanks



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Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Just hook the new chain onto the old and pull it through, then check that the timing mark for tdc lines up with the cam marks. Do not rotate the engine unless marks are aligned, do not rotate engine with camchain off.
 
... and the marks on the cams can only be seen from the top, which is the weirdest bit of the whole job. Before rivetting make sure that the left side is tensioned and the right side is loose.
 
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