The SkyTeam 'Ace' Resource

The one on the right hand side is just decorative, the left side plate (sprocket side) provides access to rotate the motor when setting valve clearance.

Crazy
 
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hey crazy

how did u manage to scrap off the skyteam on those plates? polisher?

joseph

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ACE125toy said:
I removed the bracket, can't remember how it was run but you need to keep it free and able to move when you turn the bars so not to pull the cable.

i find it work the best to re route the cable on the right side of the bike (throttle side) that has minimal effect on the cable now after i have done it all over again.

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need a personal experience on Ooracing clip on bars. which spacer do u guys use to fit on the fork? second biggerest size?

i find it hard to completely secure it on the fork, it becomes loose if i rotate it clockwise toward me hard enough when sitting on the bike, speacially the throttle side.

any good solution? tried the thickerest spacer but it would not fit through the fork....

joseph

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Alan Vega said:
The battery is just behing the metal plate number, I just put it perpendicular to the frame (if you consider originally it is parrallel to the frame), so it makes more room.

Hi Alan,

Sorry to bug you again, but how exactly did you fit the battery in? Did you have to drill any holes to the frame? I was thinking that I might use the original battery bracket and drill two holes into the metal plate that connects the frame tubes just above the plastic mud guard and mount it there but I would like to avoid drilling any holes into the frame so just wondering whether there is other way how to mount it.

Thanks,

Thomas
 
Can anybody recomend a quick action throttle that will fit standard bars with standard electrics and bar end mirrors. I emailed OORacing and they said the one they sell will not work with standard electrics. There are lots to choose from on Ebay.co.uk but I am unsure as to wether they are suitable. Also I have seen videos on youtube where people are fitting a plastic cam inside the throttle to turn it into a QA throttle.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pit-Bike-Fast-Twist-Throttle-Bronze-Quick-Action-Stump-Demen-110cc-125cc-140cc-/171244860928?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item27defd3600#ht_2342wt_1014

Thanks

Wayne
 
WJPez said:
Can anybody recomend a quick action throttle that will fit standard bars with standard electrics and bar end mirrors. I emailed OORacing and they said the one they sell will not work with standard electrics. There are lots to choose from on Ebay.co.uk but I am unsure as to wether they are suitable. Also I have seen videos on youtube where people are fitting a plastic cam inside the throttle to turn it into a QA throttle.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pit-Bike-Fast-Twist-Throttle-Bronze-Quick-Action-Stump-Demen-110cc-125cc-140cc-/171244860928?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item27defd3600#ht_2342wt_1014

Thanks

Wayne

Wayne

your going to have the same problem, there isnt enough room on the bars before it bends to fit the switch gear and new control. if you look at the ooracing ones they look basicly the same
 
sprocket2cog said:
your going to have the same problem, there isnt enough room on the bars before it bends to fit the switch gear and new control. if you look at the ooracing ones they look basicly the same

Ok, thanks. I was just trying to do the job as cheap as I could.

Wayne
 
I had the tank off at the weekend and found a multiplug with a green/white wire that was not connected to anything. Does anybody know what this is for?

Wayne

 
Thanks for all your replies. I have disconnected the side stand switch so it could be that the plug just ended up on top of the frame when I removed the carb. the neutral light is still working (although neutral is still a pain to get sometimes).

Wayne
 
I noticed this orphan plug when I bought the bike, brand new, and before I removed anything like the side stand switch.
And neutral light, neutral switch and side stand switch was working. I didn't bother to follow the plug to see where it is connected but this is probably what you should do so that we know what it is.
There is no sign of it in the electrical diagram.
 
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oh no......i just reverse bleed my brake line as changing a new master cyclinder and had some brake fluid leaked on to my brake pad and out side of the cliper...i think. Cleaned it, pressure felt gd but it js making funny noises and not braking as powerful as it was....what i should i do what i should i do?

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If you got dot fluid on your pads chances are they are shot. No way to make them work again top notch. Get new pads, and clean everything around the brake (caliper, rotor, fork leg) with isopropyl alcohol. Mount pads and off you go.

If you are really urged to ride, you could bake the pads in your oven. Throw them in, turn it on, and let them sit 20 minutes @ 350F in there. Braking power may improve.

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thank you for the info, hopefully it wont happen again next time when i bleed my brake. Have the brake pad replace and is working ok now, will go on a proper ride to test it out.

how clean do i need to clean my caliper? i have wipe it down with clean water and cloth a several times....

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You're welcome. Water and soap should do the trick, but I suggested alcohol because that removes the brake fluid completely

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