acetelyne n hammertone ADVtwin

you mean the keihin ?sandcast with sprung slides
the only thing i think i need is a idle speed slide lifter shrew
i was just gonna adopt something else done feel lkike 30@$ for a screwed

No not that exact or they would be spendy parts but me thinks the yellow parts fit

i finally remembered this was final assembly so i got the hyybrid bastard forks done,almost...well they gotta come apart for the gold valve fitting latr though easy stuff
im gonna hafta fashin' a brembo hanger, new du bushings all around,hacked 3'' of the tube tops titties tube top made me say titties
i love these triples clamps

Cool. I can't understand what you are saying most of the time but I like watching the process.

Those who control how words are written defined and interpreted also control those who use them.

i guess you can see the upsidowner yoke on the table what do you suppose i couid reperpisate it as hmmmmmm?
goddam that fork lashup is light sliders are yammer-swammer,maxim 550 ,stanchions klx250/kx125,thin walled probably bend slam landing a launch
ful; travel as they are is 8-1/4 but thats metat to metal bottomed
that 3'' more than stock
the way i have set both ends up is half tyhe travel gained ,is deeper bottom points about 1''/1-1/2'' deeper and the rest is gained height

Yep. I'm in.

whew i finally knuckled down and built the front wheel i am going with 19 just because it gives that slightly desert sledish image and i already have the 19 tubliss and i can air down to 5-10 psi for rocky cowtrailing
threading spokes is tedious as fuck but now with the forks done the front wheel done ,the whole finish build up on the lift will start
notice the rusty disc thats because its the best, cast iron,gripp[y stuff , disc is husky circa 1985
it was a suzuki rm wheel, xs650 oem 19 rim aluminum niples oooo the wheel is light
lika feather
i just went in and cut the spokes back 1'' that left me something to grip cause some nips were tight as
it was touch and go but i saved all 36 and then lost one :

digital zero does your mathh
mismatched c to c floaster post holes rotor /hub
measure minor thread id push zer=o set
measure across all the way thread to thread gives c to c 134mm
measure floating post diametter zero across 130mm 4 mm diff 2 off each side
measure inside to outer disc zero,i9 used a rat tail file then mini drum sander finish each one till +2.00 on caliper boom no thinking

and i did about a half hr polishing

Oh so chinaE

ok well lesson learned i did not look a head far enough but i still proceeded with only drill hacksaw and files proceeded to lash my beloved bambi brake pistons clapper to some bastard jap forks
a single bracket hanger was the fools rode in my mind,so i wipped up a 3 d structure of elements a duplex hanger foos

3-4 rows speed holeo's same as the rotor? good work mang!

some minor speedholizm,most helljeah just a couple 3 well placed metal jakit 223 rounds would do it eh ?

awesome!

xb33bsa said:

some minor speedholizm,most helljeah just a couple 3 well placed metal jakit 223 rounds would do it eh ?

Click to expand...

;D 6mm Mag is like a #2 pencil holer!

44 mag then wad kutters ,random

speedholizm ! ! !

This is interesting. Not at all what I'D do with a Cub-clone motor, which I'd only be after for the Nostalgia in the first place - and there are SOOOO many much more lovely things to do with a Chinese Cub-clone motor.

Heck I've got two old Passport frames in MY back yard. And two 9yr-old nephews. They'd better get a damn paper route, but thus far I've got two matching complete 33mm forks from KZ440LTD, some choice 200mm 2LS drums, several 3.00x16" Borrani & 3.50x16" Super-Akront rims - but then I figured that's all a bit much so I've just scored a 2.50x16" 36-spoke Akront and I'm hunting down 2.15x16" to go up front. And if I can muster some leading-link forks, I'd really rather not use the telescopics. Well I'll let 'em have my old "Lil' Big-Red" C70 carcasses, the hand-me-down forks, and a FEW choice bits for building a cool custom. I'm sure they'll build 'em all fugly but functional right up until the point they start to worry what they LOOK like on said bikes, and then maybe they'll go in for the really groovy boy-racer kit. The main thing is that they get a decent pile of bones to start with so they're not so discouraged that they'll go out and snap up a CHF50 Metro like MY lazy impatient kid did.

Ugh. The budget on that lil' 50, plus the Vino 125 I got "for her mom" ('s weekends away) - would've built the most amazing Passport resto-mod this side of Kalamazoo!

So I'm trying to show my nephews some cool Chinese 140cc powered, yet period-correct 50/70/90/110 builds, of any & all versions, just in the hope that they'll hit upon "their own" idea, and run with it.

Inspiration can best be sourced from the "CHALOPY" blog.
(The further back in the archives, the better!)
http://chalopy.blogspot.ca/2008/12/start-of-bike.html





But hey, I can still sure dig what you're doing with that brake & hub etc.

That must have taken a lot of diggin', or a total fluke, to get a rotor that close to fitting the hub straight up. I've been searching high & low for a smaller lighter let alone cast-Iron disc to fit the rear end of my "CB900K0 Bol Bomber", on the heavy-assed CB750F1 rear disc hub. Same weight as the GT750J 4LS drum, just the hub center-sections of each - and you can be damn sure that the sprocket and cush plus rotor weigh a hell of a lot more than the alloy side-plates, linkages and shoes on the 4LS drum. So I've got two copies of the 4.25x18" Akront rim, one for the rear hub and a Harley pattern for the FRONT hub - the ideal way to do it up will be the "Front Hub Trick" with a bolt-up cush I wanna cut out of this fire-damaged KZ750B/KZ1000A conical rear hub -

(((Though I've gotta find another machinist to do it, as my "regular" pooched the GT750J drum to CB900F fork, for "KZ440LOL" so badly, I'm gonna have a hard time trusting him. I asked for an alternate axle nut, to put the hex on the outside of the fork, so as to cut off less of the speedo-drive side shoe plate - well not only did he wind up cutting even MORE material off of it, to make his hideous new axle nut fit - the HEX which he put on the outside face is the same size as the one on his HARDLYABLESON Schwarzenegger original T2 style FAT BOY - So what, now I'm supposed to carry this big IMPERIAL sized wrench in my tool-kit? WTF.)))

Anyway yeah, I'm still somehow fixated on doing the "quick-cheap" rear wheel swap using the bigger hub, 'cause I know it'll fit straight in - DESPITE still needing to shrink down the rear brake so my Marzocchi Strada-II piggy-back shocks and Cal-Fab swinger will play together nicely, without the rear caliper hitting the piggy-back OR the flipped-around piggy kissing the swinger at full extension (catching air over hill-tops for instance) So yeah, I'm searching for a good 6-bolt rotor, just like yours, that'll bolt straight up to the SOHC Super-Sport hub. It's a pity but the 6-rivet CB350F/CB400F front disc won't cut it, as the new bolt holes would hit the carrier right mid-way through the angled out spokes of the carrier's "dish" section.

Meanwhile I've found a good rotor to bolt straight to the COMSTAR rear hub, the 5-bolt type from the DOHC era that is - Turns out there's a ZRX1100/ZRX1200 rear disc with the same pattern for bolt holes etc. Learned that one by poring over Galfer wave-rotor catalogues day in day out, and the Metalgear Australia rotor listings (which have a "search by any dimension" function, yet which doesn't don't cross-reference back to what bike they come off of so you can't just go to eBay and grab one 2nd-hand like an ingrate) scaling up images to correct outer diameter on the PC screen then measuring the images with a tape, and digging through eBay listings to see which of 'em have a spec sheet for rotor dimensions. Takes a lot of time! That's why I say, you were either smart or lucky finding that Husky rotor to fit that hub!

And your front caliper hanger reminds me of the '80s Honda TRAC anti-dive caliper hangers. This is another one I'm struggling with. I'm ready to dive straight into a GL1500 41mm TRAC fork swap, it should go nicely with the "Faux-Leading-Shoe" fake drum hubs I'm fiddling with here, cut out of GL1500 & PC800 front wheels. You'd be blown away by how light-weight these "hubs" are! They're thin walled hollow structures, like Aluminum balloons.

But there's a complete fluke - I've figured out the PC800 can be embiggened from 276mm dual-disc to the 296mm size of the GL1500 - which wouldn't be a down-size from the CB1100R vented discs I've already put on the bike and am now viewing as the minimum feasible rotor size. - Turns out the USA spec CB1100F rear discs should bolt up to the PC800 hub, and who cares whether it's "backwards" when it's gonna be covered up by a 4LS style rotor shroud? Well - an even better fluke has just come along. Here I had become fixated with the 316mm upgrade to the GL1500 discs, using rear discs from GL1500SE - Well I was digging around, trying to figure out a fork with a 316mm dual-disc on it. The Nighthawk "Seven-Fifty" models come with a 316mm but it's only on the one side. I was drawing a blank.

Meanwhile, I'm fixated with the 41mm GL1500 fork being a good mimic for the '82 "CB750F" AHM AMA Superbike works-spec forks - yet they're ONLY 41mm and the AHRMA limit for "forgotten era" racers is 43mm - everybody else who doesn't give a shit about the period-correct cool factor of the TRAC forks are jumping straight into the 43mm forks from CBR & VFR etc - Gotta wonder whether the 43mm difference is holding the DOHC-4 racers back, hey? Surely it isn't the ENGINE....

Well I fluked across the '96+ ST1100-ABS models having a 43mm TRAC leg on the right-hand-side. And that damn thing looks nigh on ambidextrous! Of course you'd need a fucked-up caliper hanger with an off-set pivot point for the left-hand leg, but who wants the fugly ST1100-ABS CALIPERS anyhow?

See, the 43mm dual-TRAC forks in the '80s were on stuff like the NS500, early NSR500 etc - Works spec Grand Prix machines. Only. So how friggin' beautiful would be be to out-do the GL1500 '82 Superbike fork mimic job, with an '83 NS500 replica fork? That shit would be BEAUTIFUL - Instead of the plain old silver paint that's already on the GL1500 fork, these things could be painted to look like the magnesium-passivate tint on the Grand Prix 43mm forks, the caliper hangers could be painted brightly to look like so many Grand Prix versions had. The only hold-up being, the calipers on the NR500, NS500, NSR500 etc, had the whole "twin-trailing" effect with the two differently sized pistons per pair.

So as to avoid a grabby lock-up, to give these overly powerful brakes a DOWN-twist rather than the crank-up which so many drums sought to do with 2LS & 4LS linkages. Saw an old pattent once for a tipping block which did this on a single-puck caliper, but I guess the odd-sized pistons will do it for you. Yeah, the pressure on the faces of each piston will be equal - but the pressure on the back-side of each PAD will be unequal front-to-back, 'cause they get that pressure from the total face area of the pistons contacting the pad's backside, not the hydraulic fluid. Took me a minute to figure out whether it was done to make 'em crank harder, or SOFTER -

Well even if you look back at some of the '60s Grand Prix pics, I think it was Jim Redman's RC-181, he sometimes ran a twin-TRAILING linkage on the 4LS drum, more often than not he ran 2xSLS "Doppel Simplex" link-less armatures. See, I guess SOMEBODY figured out that THIS was the problem which made the old huge-assed 4LS racing drums so damn unpredictable, was the 2LS/4LS function and the ratios going on with the longer shoes making for a really long lever arm etc etc. So yeah, it turns out that tuning DOWN the potential top-end braking force, you create greater USABLE RANGE in your brakes. DUH.

So, I guess the closest possible STREET-BIKE calipers, CHEAP ones anyhow, would come off of the VF750F/CBX750F etc - with the little (+) shape cast in over the head of each piston bore. The Grand Prix versions used that same motif.

Only here's the catch - Maybe I WOULD want to keep the original calipers from the '96+ ST1100-ABS, or at least the set-up on the right-hand-side and the matching caliper from the left - 'Cause what does the rotor diameter turn out to be, on ONLY this one model of ST1100? 316mm - just like those GL1500SE rear discs I wanna use. Pretty damn cool.

Of course, for the NON "Faux-Leading-Shoe" version, just a regular old dual-disc brake for a SOHC/GL1000 front hub or Comstar wheel for that matter, there's always a chance of making a pretty cool 316mm disc for 'em. I was looking at the center-carrier swap for these vented 296mm CB1100R rotors, to stick 'em on a SOHC 6-bolt front hub ('cause the only 5-bolt dual-disc wire-spoke front hub Honda ever made was off the Canadian-ONLY, 1977-ONLY, CB750P7 POLICE bike, only - in other words that's full-on 24-carat Unobtainium) and as it turns out, not quite ALL of the 9-rivet composite rotors from the DOHC era match up to the size on the SOHC era 9-rivet composite carriers. Some of 'em are quite a bit bigger. Well - some of 'em are the solid plate center carriers from GL1200 - which could conceivably be drilled with some big old holes so as to look just like the SOHC carriers, maybe bolt 'em to a 5-bolt Harley front hub perhaps? Or drill a new rotor-bolt pattern, IF it'll fit? Yeah, I was thinking maybe the bigger carriers with the drilled holes to look all SOHC style, could be surrounded with a 316mm disc, or 310mm to suit later-vintage CBR929RR/CBR954RR forks & calipers etc - And maybe just MAYBE, a set-up like that could look just like the original SOHC CB750K0 Sand-Cast front disc, only they're EMBIGGENED!

How awesome would THAT be? 'Cause let's face it - by now we're ALL sick of seeing later era spider-flake/snow-web gold anodized floating rotors from Y2K+ Sport-Bikes, stuck on the front end of a Classic Superbike. It's just not SEXY. It's like a beautiful bubble-butt with a "property of Bubba" tat tramp-stamped across it, and your name ain't Bubba (or IS it?) It's part & parcel of how all of these modern re-interpreted "Cafe Racer" builds just completely fuck with all reasonable aesthetic sensibilities. Kinda like a typical hodge-podged mix-&-match CHINESE CUB-CLONE BUILD ha-ha. Well, the main thing wrong with the stupid current-crop-cafe builds would be the mono-shock conversions or all of those USD fork swaps, the hideous 17" mag wheels on every damn thing. But the spiderflake rotors are the real shit-scented cake icing rose garnish on the un-polish-able turd of the so-called "Up-Dated Classic" - Can I get an AMEN? I mean, the ORIGINAL spiderflake floating rotors (correct me if you can think of an earlier one?) were on the '82 CB750F AHM AMA Superbike racers, with the 16" Dymag front wheel. The 18" Dymags were typically outfitted with a fixed 330mm rotor which were the TITTIES just gorgeous. Same deal with the over-sized fixed rotors on Eddie Lawson's KZ, same style. And the contrast, not to mention all of the spiderflake brake "upgrades" (many of which are the same diameter as the originals, and using the same original calipers and hangers, FLOATING calipers that is to say, meaning there's zero need for a floating rotor) make that one detail of those "Freddie Spencer" DOHC-4 Superbike racers LOOK LIKE SHIT.

I mean, yeah - there's throwing together a build from whatever you've got laying around. Not a damn thing wrong with that. (((Especially when what you've got laying around is all classic period-correct brand-loyal unobtainium kit anyhow!)))

But then there's trying to build a "thing of beauty" - Which let's face it, "nostalgia ain't what it used to be", sure - But nostalgia is the ONLY legitimate reason to be into the classic bikes these days. They're certainly not CHEAPER anymore! I mean - a lot of folks will shy away from saying they did something 'cause of how it looks. But what other reason are you running an air-cooled 30yr-old motorcycle FOR? The superior power and handling? You could get all of the best shit I'm trying to squeeze out of the "CB900K0 Bol Bomber" for about a grand, on a 2nd-hand "needs bodywork and paint" '90s era Litre-bike. No wait - you could get all of the same POWER out of a 600 ha-ha. The LITRE bike is gonna give you all the juice of the most hot-tuned works-spec big-bore Superbike engines OUT THERE. There's a 1st year FZR1000 like that for $1500 in my area. Was trying to help my daughter's new beau find a cleap classic the other day, and I saw the FZR and I just went "... Oh." ha-ha. So yeah - there's still the ONE good argument for the classics, and that's their BEAUTY - which can only be ascertained through the time-travelling lens of NOSTALGIA - As such, the vintage race-replica is the most noble interpretation of which. Well, that and the "should've" - the OEM bikes which the marque never made but should have and could have, would have and maybe even DID - in an alternate universe? Hence the "CB900K0 Bol Bomber" - it could be seen as a Bol D'Or based homage to the '65 CB450K0 Black Bomber, OR one might even visualize a street-bike rendered from the roots of the RC-181 - which DIDN'T take an additional ten-twelve years to trickle down to the street!

Well, the best of all "Should've" or "Retro-Fried" builds, would be from the "Cylinder Sorcerer" himself, one Monsieur Jean-Luc Borgetto, over in France.



[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZZApGl8H2M[/youtube]

Vivre le France Libre!

I just love what these guys are doing with vintage GP replicas based on entirely different and out-of-time power-plants. They make me think that maybe some of my OWN ideas could someday take flight, like the MVX250F (& NS400R engined?) homage to Bill Ivy's Jawa Type 673, or the "CZ850K0 Sand-Cast" that I wanna whip up from a V65 Magna/Sabre, in homage to the CZ Type 860 - or even just a GL1200 based DLF-1000 replica.

Only the one thing which bugs the heck out of me, is they're taking those '90s era & up engines, or PARTS of those engines, the inlet tracts and combustion chambers, the ignition, the pistons & rods & cranks & valve-train etc etc - and they're using the vintage original 35mm Ceriani forks and actual 4LS drum hubs. I don't have a problem with the tubular steel frames at all, in fact I feel they're part & parcel of the bike coming off as a proper vintage replica, rather than a Gixxer that had an accident with ... with some type of top-secret BEAM weapon! Ha-ha. It's all about the suspension and running gear that they're using.

Yeah, I'm well aware that it's pretty damn difficult to find a modern tire with the grid-pattern sipes of a vintage 19"/18" SKINNY wheel-set. But I still feel like there's some potential for the widest available vintage rims - (this is why I'm using 3.00x16" Borrani & 3.50x16" Super-Akront rims on my projects) - to pair up with certain sizes of modern tires for lightweight racing machinery, the likes of an NSR250 or RS250 from the '90s let's just say, or the low-profile radial MAXI-SCOOTER tires which I'm using on the "KZ440LOL" etc - So too with the '90s era Sport-Touring radials on the widest available 18" rims for the "CB900K0 Bol Bomber" and even the 3.50x16" Super-Akront I'm lacing up for a Freddie Spencer style 16"/18" wheel-set, probably with some type of CBR900RR or "CB900F" 919 front tire - There's massive potential for building the modern suspension, wheel, and even brake technology into the "Retro-Fried" pseudo-classic machinery.

(Well, maybe not on a fixed income ha-ha, like I'M trying to do with a disability cheque! Let alone trying to haul all of this shit back & forth one-handed while walking with a cane - It's a damn good thing there are cooperative junkies out there whom I can bribe with my pain-killers, to do the heavy lifting!)

I really think that this "Faux-Leading-Shoe" fake 4LS drum thing could make life a lot safer for the Classic Cafe Racer set. Like - in building both a retrofried DOHC-4 wire-spoke repli-racer AND using the Suzuki 4LS drum on my kid's "KZ440LOL", I couldn't help but notice the freaks out there putting this same damn 200mm drum brake on the front end of a CBX1000 based Hailwood Replica - Are they NUTS or something? Better not try RIDING like Hailwood did, just stick to posing with the bike in your Hailwood replica leathers, otherwise that's a disaster just waiting for the first hair-pin corner! Or at least the 2nd or 3rd ordinary one, I should say.

And yeah, the path was laid down by the folks with the wire-spoke converted CBX550F fake 4LS drum hubs - Only THEY'RE only 230mm discs in there, albeit vented like the CB1100R stuff I like so much. PLUS, that hub is as heavy as shit! See, the PC800 conversion wouldn't only offer the same disc diameter as GL1000, CB1100F or CB900F etc - It's gonna cut the weight of that CBX550F version in HALF - No shit. And the GL1500 version will be up to CB1100R or CBR900RR specs, the GL1500SE version would be up to the CBR954RR front brake, the ST1300 - How big is the GL1800 front rotor diameter? All of those models would then be up for a wire-spoke retro-fried Cafe conversion.

Let alone that CBR954RR with one of it's testicles chewed off!

And the 43mm TRAC fork well, I just love the thought of all that NS500/NSR500 bodywork going over any random VF or VFR, let alone RWF1000F "Water Whale" or RS850R replica bodywork for that matter, ideally over the aforementioned TUBE-FRAMED Interceptor chassis in the form of VF1100S/VF1100C - and with the 1230cc Russ-Collins' RC-Engineering STROKER-CRANK thrown into the mix, along with a big-bore kit if feasible - plus a shaft-to-chain final drive conversion ala XS11 or Magni MV Agusta for that matter, we're talking about the most ridiculously over-powered classic Honda ENDURANCE RACER ever devised by man and built by the very gods of shade tree mechanics-dom, IF they're listening in..... I just love the thought of one such a beast showing up at the AHRMA "Forgotten Era" or Bol D'Or Classics, the Classic TT on IOM -

All of those GSX-R top-end "GS1000" engined vintage competitors would finally be caught up with and run asunder.

It's only about fifty grand worth of machine-shop time. Ha-ha. But the PARTS involved are all cheap junk-yard shit. Well, a bit of Unobtainium in the form of the RC Stroker-Crank, or the WOLF exhausts for V65, probably cheaper to fudge from scratch - even if you kept the shaft-drive, the 6pkrunner style weld-up type rear hub for wire-spoke conversion on the Doncque replica "DLF-1200", OR on the V65, really not that big of a deal. For the '80s replica interpretation, it would be all about the COMSTAR wheels, for which you'd want the Akront "NERVI" rims, but at least HALF of that wheel-set is available off an existing cheapo junk-yard wheel. The rear one might come off of a PM Chicane wheel or one of the Billet beasts carved out entirely hollow. Might be a bit of a trick bolting up VF1000R 6-spoke Comstar elements to the shaft-drive hub, but I'm sure there's a quick fix for that one too. This is the thing though, why the shaft-to-chain drive conversion would be such a valid investment, 'cause you'd be able to throw any random late-model swinger at the thing, and the monoshock on the Sabre is like a straight up descendant of the RS850R anyhow.

Doesn't matter WHAT gets built out of 'em, the point being there's an alternative to simply DE-CRUISER-IZING the V65 Magna, that IT could be just as much a basis for a vintage Race-Replica as any SOHC CR750 build. Gotta be right around ZERO attempts at this type of project, thus far. I'm sure there have been one or two VF1000R based versions, but IMHO that box-section frame is a worse spoiler than the shaft-drive itself.

Well whatever - All I've gotta worry about right NOW, is that my CURRENT projects don't come off looking like shit. I've got a shiver running up my back whenever I contemplate the MV Agusta 4C6, 'cause that's what my toaster-tank DOHC-4 might very well wind up looking like. Ladies and Germs, I give you "The Black Pig":



[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzX9McCaIrk[/youtube]

Quite possibly a worthy design ethos/pathos for a CB900C/CB1000C Custom, actually. Just not for THIS bike! Ha-ha. (Hmmm.... - "The BolD' Pig?")

-Sigh.

I fell asleep on the first paragraph... care to summarize in ten words or less