Ducati Mobster

These are the tips I thought he might've used. The rest of the pipes are custom I'm guessing.

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/181965363975


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Nah... look inside the cans, you can see they have way bigger baffle ports around the corner and those eBay cans are small and close to the end.

This is a 100% bike no way anything but the best was used.
 
I was more thinking of the lines of something like this. (pls excuse the drawing, I can bearly spell CAD let alone use one)
then you could still utalise the OE front pipes of the Duke, and make new secondary's and up pipe into your muffler
 

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Before I began modifying the bike I got a few 'before' shots at a carpark I think I might use for the 'after' shots. Here's a couple:

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And I couldn't resist photoshopping on my CAD to check it looks like I imagined..
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Thought I'd throw this in too. I'll admit this shot is a bit staged.. but I have gone through probably close to 100 prints, sketches, and overlays to get to a design I'm happy with:) This is just a few
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The first thing I want to do is clean up the front end. I'm going to do most of the same things that I did to the GSX so there's not too many unknowns, just a bunch of work to get out of the way.I'm hoping that once I've got the front done I'll be able to get back on the road with it and get used to the new riding position and make a few more decisions about the seat position, rearsets, and things like that.

I stripped the headlight and the mess of confusing Italian designed brackets and mounts behind it. I then got into the new triple clamp. I am planning to redesign the existing speedo enclosure soon, so the mounting of this is not too critical at this stage.

I used 20mm plate to make these triple clamps. The design is a little unconventional but easier to make on the machines I've got available compared to a standard triple clamp design. When I made the triple clamp for the GSX I cleared it with a local motorcycle certifier who liked the design so I'm pretty sure this one will be sweet too.


Designing and programming (and checking it will fit around the existing holes in the scrap piece of plate):
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Machining
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Top side finished
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(Not the best surface finish.. There's some rubbing from the face mill because the plate is so large and not clamped/supported very well. But I think I will bead blast and anodise all of these parts eventually so I'm happy enough)

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Bottom side finished and chopped out
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Milled off the tabs, drilled, counterbored, and tapped the clamp screws. And it fits.
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My workmate later pointed out, after looking at my CAD that the rounds on the front aren't symmetrical.. So I had to make another set! Not quite finished yet, but they're sitting under my desk waiting for some more attention. Probably nobody would ever notice the asymmetry, I mean even I didn't until he pointed it out. But the difference between a 50mm rad and a 100mm rad is pretty significant when you know it's there!
 
Awesome final design, hope it works out in reality? Looking forward to the result.

I can now see the radius on each stanchion differs, I'd say the left is out and the right looks...well, right.
 
Nice job, I like the tool marks and would likely anodize just the way they are... natural color as well.

P.S. Can I have the screw ups, I have a Ducatai Monster complete front end they would go nicely on.
 
Almost up to date on the build now :)

I got some clipons and bar-ends from aliexpress and, as with the last set I bought out of asia, was really impressed with the build quality for the price! Had to bore out the bars a little in the lathe to get the mirrors to fit but apart from that these came together well.

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Don't have a photo but the clutch and brake MCs fouled on the clipon mounts and caused me issues assembling everything. Basically I couldn't fit the levers far enough up the bars to give enough space for the controls and grips. To get around this I machined some crescent shaped spacers to space the levers/master cylinders out 5mm from the bars. Got some SS cap screws which were 5mm longer and put it all together and I think it is all sweet now.

Took it for a quick ride up and down the driveway with the new bars on and I was amazed at the difference they made! The original riding position on these monsters is awful imo. Being that much lower is probably not great for comfort but is definitely a big improvement in the feel of the bike.



The next big thing I am working on at the moment is repackaging the gauges. I would love to put on a new speedo and trash the existing ones but because the immobiliser is built into the gauges on this bike I think I have to stick with the originals. I want to slim them down as much as possible and simplify the look of them. I have decided to try a composite (basalt fiber) enclosure with an anodised aluminium face with laser engraved markings. (Laser engraving anodised aluminium is a great way to get a professional touch which is actually really cheap and easy to do).

First thing I did was strip down the gauges to figure out what approach to take on remaking this component and measure things up.

I gave it a scan on another 3D scanner:
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And started CADing
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Laser cut a mockup of the faceplate to check everything lined up (it didn't first time around..) and tested the position on the bike
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I can't shrink down the gauges as much as I had hoped but I will simplify the enclosure and get rid of some of the unnecessary complex shapes. I'm also changing their position quite a lot, lowering them and flattening them. I want them to tuck in behind the triple clamp as much as possible and line up with the top line of the frame. I want to design this component in such a way that I could sell it as a kit in the future so I might take my time making sure it's designed well. But not sure if this will eventuate, just an idea at this stage:)

Pulling the needles / hands off the gauges was the scariest thing I've had to do on this bike so far. I think they must be glued on and you really have to put some serious force into it to get them off! They made a terrifying crack when they finally gave out too! but nothing broke so all good.
 
If anyone can suggest a cheap and easy way I can work around the factory immobiliser and install some different gauges I'd love to hear it!
From what I can tell it's impossible to get around the immobiliser unless I go for an aftermarket ecu which I'd rather not deal with. Does anyone have any experience with this or have any other suggestions for me to look into?
 
maxBetteridge said:
If anyone can suggest a cheap and easy way I can work around the factory immobiliser and install some different gauges I'd love to hear it!
From what I can tell it's impossible to get around the immobiliser unless I go for an aftermarket ecu which I'd rather not deal with. Does anyone have any experience with this or have any other suggestions for me to look into?

The guys over on www.ducatimonster.org forums might be able to help with your immobilizer. Think you'd have better luck with that kind of technical question on a more make/model specific forum.
 
Lots of progress in this post.

Right now all my parts are waiting for me to pick up from the anodiser so nothing is assembled just yet.

I am going to wrap my grips in leather the same way I did my GSX. It will be about 20mm wide strip wound around the bars and needs a 'clamp' at each end to stop them from unwinding. I found that on the last one the clamps didn't really do much, they were loose enough to be able to rotate around quite freely but that was enough to hold the ends of the leather where they needed to be. These parts are a bit over-engineered but if I made them much smaller the cap screws I used wouldn't fit. (I made 3 sets of these)

Half way done:
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Ready for anodising:
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I also managed to score 3 full hides of the soft greeny-brown leather in the first pic. Was originally from a closing down handbag factory so it's a LOT nicer than the leather I used on the GSX.

I received my basalt fibre from China:
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And made the mould for my speedo enclosure out of a big block of scrap billet:
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Prepped the mould with mould release wax then PVA. Laid two layers of basalt and then 3 layers of glass then peel ply.
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The Basalt darkened up a lot which I was a bit disappointed about but when you get it in the sunlight you still get a distinct gold glow so I'm happy enough.

For the second and third parts I practiced a few tricks with the layup, the two layers of basalt were glued together with spray glue before I did the layup. This helped a lot to keep the fibres nice and square and made it a lot stiffer when putting it in the mould. I also heated up my mould to about 60C and wet the surface out with a thick coat of epoxy and left it for about an hour (upside down so the excess dripped out) so it was tacky before I laid the basalt in and added the rest of the resin. These came out a lot shinier:
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Also made brackets to hold the new speedo and mounted it with some rubber grommets (this is the practice part, haven't cut the nice parts yet)

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Made a new faceplate for the speedo from ali plate. This has holes which the backlight shines through to show the markings, the text will be laser cut onto the anodising (but won't light up with the backlight obviously). This part I've asked to be anodised black so the laser cutting will show up well I hope.

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This whole speedo project has been developed as I go along. When I started I wasn't planning to have any sort of bezel but my friends talked me into it so.. the back of the bezel:
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And the front:
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The partially assembled thing:
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And a quick video of it:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BBwdojeAM9R/


Made some new headlight brackets next.

The clamps to attach to the forks:
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I made some ears out of stainless plate
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But after thinking on it for a few days I wasn't quite happy so designed some new ones which played on the shapes and angles of the frame

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And finally disassembled everything and spent a few hours sanding to get it ready for anodising
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Tune-A-Fish said:
Sweet headlight brackets... I bought some just like em from China for $19

Cool story bro. . However this guy just proved that he had the fortitude to forego the Chinese made crap and bucked up, chucked up a chunk of metal, and made his own from scratch just the way he wanted them. You attempted to place the label of fool on the guy but I don't think it reached its intended target in this case.
 
Kanticoy said:
Cool story bro. . However this guy just proved that he had the fortitude to forego the Chinese made crap and bucked up, chucked up a chunk of metal, and made his own from scratch just the way he wanted them. You attempted to place the label of fool on the guy but I don't think it reached its intended target in this case.

No shit. I can read and see that this is some high grade shit... He likely see's the humor.

Crap? it's the same in the end with slightly lower quality... my headlight wont know unless i tell it SHHHH!
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
No shit. I can read and see that this is some high grade shit... He likely see's the humor.

Crap? it's the same in the end with slightly lower quality... my headlight wont know unless i tell it SHHHH!

Point is let's not assume that everybody gets this fucked up sense of humor where we insult them and hope that they get the "joke" while the rest of the world looks in and sees somebody acting like a tool. I've used Chinese parts. But I sure as hell appreciate epic work like is doing. As far as being mostly the same? That's debatable. This is pro grade quality. Dude knows his way around a machine shop, obviously, and there will be nothing quite like it when he's done because he put in the effort. But in the end, the fact that he made it from a raw chunk of metal into what he wanted....that sets it apart.

MaxB, friggin killer dude.


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Cheers guys, you're both totally right (except the part where you imply I know what I'm doing). I am a big fan of cheap Chinese crap but at the moment I'm just playing to my strengths and CNCing some eye catching bits.
The way I see it I just saved myself $19 ;)
 
Rock on, Next time make two of each and sell it here, I have the same chassis and would love some of those parts for the front end.

Oh wait! :)
 
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