1978 KE100 Rebuilt with Mods

Babsworthy

Active Member
Hello all, I am new to the forum even though I posted last year when I bought this bike. For a year now, I have been convinced that the bike was perfect the way it is. Its fun to ride around town.


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About two months ago it started slipping out of fourth. No problem, i know how to change a clutch. Well, after waiting and waiting for the clutch plates and springs to come in, i decided to start taking her apart. This is when i found out my tiny Kawasaki isn't nearly as easy to work on as i had originally hoped. To get to the clutch you have to remove the carb and oil pump. i definitely wasn't expecting this since most dirt bikes the clutch cover is easily accessible. But no biggie. I kept wrenching.

So i drained the oil and it looked milky. GREAT… somewhere along the way i got water in the gear box. Hopefully an i won't have to split the case or anything, but i opted to get a gasket kit since the one for the oil pump and carb housing were in bad shape. I'm assuming everything else is too. This was quickly turning into a complete engine overhaul. That's when i said screw it. The more layers i peel back, the more work i see that needs to be done. Tiny specks of rust here and there, worn out bushings, chipped paint, MORE RUST… So i'm breaking her down to bare frame and building it back up with fresh paint where i need it, new parts where they're needed, and hopefully some mods that can boost HP. Because lets be honest, getting passed by a college girl on a 50cc scooter is never fun. :-[

Yesterday i started breaking it down and labeling as best i could. this evening i got her down to bare frame save the triple tree, which i'll have to buy a tool for. I ran out of day light so i figured i'd post some pictures.

This is my inspiration for the finished product. Not too modified, But noticeably sleeker.

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And the tear down:
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That's it for now. I hope to get a proper tool to remove the triple tree without damaging that weird nut. All KE's come with a little tool kit under the oil tank. It includes the triple tree wrench, but i tried it and almost stripped one of the grooves. I'd rather buy the tool than have to replace a perfectly good part.


As far as amping up the horse power, does anyone have any suggestions? Machine the head? Bore and/or stroke? Will a larger carb fit in that tiny compartment? what about altering the tooth count on the sprockets? I have the original manual and it says the KE100 has 11hp stock. Is it feasible to approach 20hp with modification? This will be my first build and any help would be greatly appreciated. Wish me luck! i hope to have her back in one piece and running by spring.
 
Just a side note. I'd love any information anyone can provide on expansion chambers for this bike's exhaust. I have already downloaded the two stroke tuning manual, so I think that's a good start.


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So I've been sick as a dog the past few weeks. Being a snotty mess and feeling like patient zero sure can put a damper on a restoration. But I've actually made some progress.

I've decided to eliminate the oil tank and the tool box. So I ground off the mounting brackets for those components. I also plan to tuck an LED tail light with turn signals under the rear fender. So I cut off the stock rear turn signal mounts. I cut the metal rear fender short so it does not stick out past the plastic fender. I will fabricate a mount on that once I decide on a tail light.

I have stripped the paint off the tank, exhaust, and chain guard. I am going to do a brushed metal with clear coat and matte black color scheme. I bought VHT engine paint in clear. That's going on the tank and chain guard, I'm I'm almost certain I will need the header paint for the exhaust since the one I have is only rated up to 500 degrees.

I am currently doing a partial rebuild to make sure everything is lining up and it looks how I want. I will post pics of my progress tomorrow.


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Oil injection and the rotary valve are the two best things about these bikes, I would agree with DOHC and say do not eliminate the injection. Maybe come up with a sleeker solution for the reservoir, but don't get rid of it entirely.

Also, there are some good resources on how to cut a few extra degrees into your rotary valve a la Kawasaki Green Streak (G31M) for some extra power. Or you can direct swap the G31M valve.
 
Pretty sure there's no crank squirt jet like CCI on the ole spin valve KE's, just remove the pump and plug the supply, premix should be in the 32-1 range... but if it seizes I may be wrong.
 
Well it's been a rough winter. My jeep needed serious engine work which exhausted my budget for a while. Now i'm back on it. Still working on the frame.

I have decided to alter my initial inspiration and instead of keeping the rear fender i have hacked off the rear and want to install a brat style seat loop. Only problem is, the rear frame tubing is 3/4" outside diameter and the smallest prefabbed seat loop i can find is 1" OD. Does anyone know where i can find a smaller one? Or will i have to fabricate one myself?
 
I may have misinformed the oiler deal, look into it before you del the pump.

I ran this for a good long while and never seized tho.

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36mm round side direct to intake... With foam filter tho
 
Here are some pics of (attempted) progress:

The frame in question… The rear gap is approximately 7" center to center with 3/4" tubing.

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Here is the original tank that i stripped and attempted to repaint. The undercoat is clear. Don't worry, that isn't bare metal, although i do like the bare metal look. My poor attempt at stripes has made me realize a simple bare metal tank would look nicer. So i'm going to strip it again and just stick with either the matte clear coat or a matte military green. Who knows, by the time this project is over i may have completely switched out the tank.
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Another mishap was the seat. I ripped the old vinyl and foam off. I then cut the original (fat ass) seat pan to slim it down significantly. I soon realized nothing on the seat was symmetrical. and after several attempts to make it right, i scrapped the idea. The intricacy of the original seat pan with hinges and helmet lock was the inspiration for simplifying to the flat brat seat and seat loop.
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Not everything has been a disaster. i've gotten pretty good at repainting the various components that i won't be powder coating. The rattle can bling thread is a big help. although nothing about this bike will scream bling when i'm done with it. hahaha!!!

Here's one of many components that turned out well.
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Obviously this is turning in to a cafe project and not a restoration. Can i move this thread to the cafe category or should i just start a new thread in that category and link it to what i've already posted? Rookie mistakes, i know….
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
I may have misinformed the oiler deal, look into it before you del the pump.

Yeah, I'm probably going to stick with the oil injection. I'll just have to fabricate a new tank since i've already cut off the mounts for the original. I didn't like the original tank anyway. It was one of the major components preventing me from having that void behind the motor. I'm thinking a sleek cylindrical can strapped to the frame somewhere will look nice. I've seen custom beer can oil tanks before, but i think thats just asking for heat from the fuzz.
 
Save all the parts you remove, Myself and others use the stuff... make a pile and take a pic and post it up.
 
coyote13 said:
If you're planning on losing the fenders I think I might know a guy...


It's me. I'm the guy.

HA! ok. send me a private message on how you would prefer to make a transaction and i will send them your way. i plan to keep the black rear fender well, but the white front and rear fenders are all yours as well as the components associated with them. I'll send pics if you want.
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
WTF mang! Guess you gotta be quick haha!

Ask and ye shall receive…
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$30 for the handlebars
$20 for the tank
$30 for the cover
$30 for the air box with clamp
$20 for the chain guard (no rust, custom paint job is free ;) )
I'm not sure about the rear turn signals. I can't find any OEMs online. make an offer.

I think these are fair based on what i'm seeing on ebay. I'd be willing to cut a deal for bundling if you want multiple or all the pieces. You cover shipping.

First to make a reasonable offer gets them.
 
Also, i finally got around to sending the Two Stroke Tuner's Handbook to the local print shop. The 15 bucks i spent to get it printed and bound sure beats the $130 price tag for the used paperback on Amazon!
 
I'm having a heck of a time finding someone that can bend 3/4" tube. I would blow my budget if I bought a nice bender. And I'd waste a hundred bucks if I got a bender from Harbor Freight. Based on the reviews, the HF bender isn't worth its weight in scrap. I suppose I could buy a die for my specific bend, but thats $150 for a tool I'll use once. I'd rather not do that. Any ideas?
 
Find a basketball hoop that has a post set in the ground (or something real close to the radius you need), pack your tube with sand to keep it from crimping, heat it up with a torch, and bend it around the post until the two ends are parallel
 
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