1979 DT100 Cafe racer custom seat!

I think it looks pretty good! I cant shave it down to much, because I will be putting my battery under the seat!






 
Looking great so far! What kind of foam did you use? Be sure to test it before putting any resin on it - some foams dissolve in some resins. Also, I suggest you spend any and all time needed to perfect your foam shape. Lots of people figure they will get it perfect once they get it glassed up, but that is a really bad idea. Get the foam absolutely perfect and the rest of the project will come out much better as well as being much easier!
 
I used the blue foam like they use to insulate a house. I was also going to cover it all in the blue tape. I will be sure to test it. Thank you for the tips!!!
 
that is really nice work on the pan and seat @!
however you may be making a common mistake.something you really should look at if you want the rear suspension to work as it should
the seat and fender were higher on the underneath side than the frame rails because the rear tire goes up there when you hit a big bump and bottom out the shocks
the way the seat pan is now,flat on the frame rails,the tire may hit it before full compression and really is worth a look before you finalize all that great work
you should have about 1" of clearance with the shocks bottomed out.this gives you a little margin for a new tire or diff shocks
pull off one shock and ratchet strap down hard all the way the side with a shock still attached i could be wrong i have before but many do find an issue and it is a simple easy test
 
Thank you for the heads up! Yup...that is what a "non" bike builder doesn't think out! ;) I did head down and take a look with the old rear fender and seat. It is within an 1" clearance if that with the new seat pan compared to the old fender. I have some room to move the pan up into the seat and still have the battery fit in there. The bike did use to be an enduro so I hope that on the street I will not use all the travel it had to offer! ;D

xb33bsa said:
that is really nice work on the pan and seat @!
however you may be making a common mistake.something you really should look at if you want the rear suspension to work as it should
the seat and fender were higher on the underneath side than the frame rails because the rear tire goes up there when you hit a big bump and bottom out the shocks
the way the seat pan is now,flat on the frame rails,the tire may hit it before full compression and really is worth a look before you finalize all that great work
you should have about 1" of clearance with the shocks bottomed out.this gives you a little margin for a new tire or diff shocks
pull off one shock and ratchet strap down hard all the way the side with a shock still attached i could be wrong i have before but many do find an issue and it is a simple easy test
Click to expand...
 
awesome glad you checked it !
kinda the theory and mark to shoot for on suspnsion is one word balance,even front back action
the idea in the rear is that you will use the bump stop on quite rare occasions like that oh shit pothole that you dont see in time
using the full wheel travel at rare times allows the suspension to be compliant, comfortable and keeps the rubber to the road and you can go faster easier
that said anything off the showroom is a huge compromise and for some reason those old bikes many times were oversprung in the back and undersprung at the front, a giant imbalance that does feel good on the showroom floor
even a lil 100 is more fun with proper balance and worth a little set up if you decide to ride it often
 
Had to change the design to the more rounded molding and shaved it down a bit more. It's taped and ready for fiberglass.



 
miserygore said:
Oh yeah....I am also making my own paint booth in the basement to get this party started!!!!

That should work a treat. I just did similar for painting my new tank, but you could do with a couple of filters which can be as simple as a piece of 2' X 2' foam taped into that polythene sheet. A small bathroom type extract fan will be enough to pull out the spray mist which will otherwise stay air-borne, dry out and land on whatever your painting.

i just parted the polythene from my wall and blew the overspray out by using my spray gun as I did it next to my barn door. Try and use a high volume, low pressure HVLP type gravity fed gun, unless you have something already, as these cut down on a lot of overspray too.

Hose any walls or floors off with water and you should have a nice clean environment for painting there. Take a look at my tank and fairing, they came out as you would expect in a commercial booth.

Mark
Click to expand...
 
UK Mark said:
miserygore said:
Oh yeah....I am also making my own paint booth in the basement to get this party started!!!!

That should work a treat. I just did similar for painting my new tank, but you could do with a couple of filters which can be as simple as a piece of 2' X 2' foam taped into that polythene sheet. A small bathroom type extract fan will be enough to pull out the spray mist which will otherwise stay air-borne, dry out and land on whatever your painting.

i just parted the polythene from my wall and blew the overspray out by using my spray gun as I did it next to my barn door. Try and use a high volume, low pressure HVLP type gravity fed gun, unless you have something already, as these cut down on a lot of overspray too.

Hose any walls or floors off with water and you should have a nice clean environment for painting there. Take a look at my tank and fairing, they came out as you would expect in a commercial booth.

Mark
Click to expand...

Thank you. I actually put a furnace filter in one of the sides. Hopefully that will work well enough for what I am doing. :D
Click to expand...
 
So as the seat mold sat for a couple week glaring at me when I walked by it, I knew I just didn't like the height. I will scrap the old battery for a new smaller gel battery and took more off the top!







 
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