Montreal Manchild with an '81 Honda CB750K

Sweet, now I know =) thanks guys

Just found this chaps video on Youtube showing an easy way to remove bearings -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7VQnNfqJtA

- any thoughts? He seems to take the same approach as I do - if in doubt, get the hammer out =)
 
The Jimbonaut said:
- any thoughts? He seems to take the same approach as I do - if in doubt, get the hammer out =)
Click to expand...

I did it this way once, its way easier to just use a drift and tap them out evenly.
 
Nick the drift way is better but on some Honda wheels the center axle spacer won't move over to expose the bearing so you have to use the expanding anchor, once you get one side out you can use the drift and tap in circles for the other.
 
Jim, you need a good heavy duty anchor that almost fills the hole before it expands or it will just fly out without the bearing. I found one at CT but it took 3 different ones to get one that would hold up to the beating.
 
Maritime said:
Nick the drift way is better but on some Honda wheels the center axle spacer won't move over to expose the bearing so you have to use the expanding anchor, once you get one side out you can use the drift and tap in circles for the other.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. And Jimbo, make sure to freeze the bearings before you go to set them in. A proper piece of PVC pipe or socket and heavy hammer does the trick. Pack the inside of the hub with grease around the spacer. And make damn sure you don't drive the bearings in so far that the spacer binds them up.
 
advCo said:
Gotcha. And Jimbo, make sure to freeze the bearings before you go to set them in. A proper piece of PVC pipe or socket and heavy hammer does the trick. Pack the inside of the hub with grease around the spacer. And make damn sure you don't drive the bearings in so far that the spacer binds them up.
Click to expand...

yep, what he said, although on your honda there will likely be a stop on the hub to prevent the bearing going all the way in too tight, and never pound on the seal area, always on the outer ring, if you can use a big socket that is perfect but if you can't you can tap the bearing ring with a driver in a circular pattern like tightening lug nuts. tap one side move across, tap move across, tap etc. to make it go down even, if you get it crooked you will not be happy.
 
advCo said:
Gotcha. And Jimbo, make sure to freeze the bearings before you go to set them in. A proper piece of PVC pipe or socket and heavy hammer does the trick. Pack the inside of the hub with grease around the spacer. And make damn sure you don't drive the bearings in so far that the spacer binds them up.
Click to expand...

Thanks a million for all the input, you guys rock 8)

I think I'm getting a bit confused though but perhaps things'll make sense once I get deep down and dirty with the thing. Not sure what you mean by freeze the bearings Nick? All my posts should come with the disclaimer that absolutely everything I do on this bike is for the first time! And the spacer - is that in between the two bearings?

D'oh

Your patience and good nature are what will get this guy Doing The Ton!
 
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#11 is the spacer, you will see it when you disassemble the hub. Toss the bearings in the freezer for an hour or so before you install them, the cold will make them shrink a hair and makes installation much easier.

All the bearings i've done have a ridge on the side with the collar/bearing retainer, but not on the brake side. You'll be able to see the ridge if its there, but just be wary of overseating them if not because it can happen.
 
good info nick, the last 4 sets I have done have all been comstars so the spoke rim may not have the lip.
 
These don't have the lip because of that center sleeve (#11 in the fiche). I know the GLs and Cb750s all have that sleeve. It keeps the bearings from collapsing in.
 
Kool for kats - I picked up an expanding anchor and a drift and will have a crack at this mañana...There Will Be Beers
 
No dice on the bearings - tried the expanding bolt but it didn't work out. Maybe the bolts too narrow but it was the largest I could find. No luck getting the bearing retainer of the sprocket bearing either. Epic fail in both departments.

So, moved in to cleaning the front brake caliper - after a gentle rub with some 0000 wire wool, some mechanics picks and some brake cleaner I got the cylinder looking like this -



- is that gonna be clean enough? There's still a bit of aluminium clouding and some tiny rust spots but I didn't want to get too heavy handed with the wool
 
Did that as well mate. I'll give it a very gentle going over with some 2000 grit sandpaper on the morro and see if I can clean it up a bit better but otherwise that's about as good as it'll get. Sure as hell a lot better than it looked before I started that's for sure

Rock on weekend =)
 
Hang on, you mentioned brake fluid. I've been using brake cleaner - would brake fluid do a better job?

Dot 3?


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
What really matters is the channel where the rubber sits. If there's any crap in there the it can cause the piston to bind and not return when you release the brake. Use a mirror to make sure all the gunk is out of the top of that channel and as long as the bore is relatively clean and you have a good quality rubber and clean piston, you'll be good to go
 
Yes DOT 3 fluid will actually clean old dried fluid and you don't have to worry about contaminating the caliper
 
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