Cb360 Reassembly Help

I had to file the lip off this one...wedged in body from hammering.

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Scraped the body pulling it out w needle nose pliers.

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Looks like base of slide is damaged, don't remember seeing that line? You can polish the bore slightly with some 400 or 600 grit wetordry. May be worth doing the 'line' with so-me 220 grit. The air jets were in correct positions when I sent carbs back
 
crazypj said:
Looks like base of slide is damaged, don't remember seeing that line? You can polish the bore slightly with some 400 or 600 grit wetordry. May be worth doing the 'line' with so-me 220 grit. The air jets were in correct positions when I sent carbs back

Hey PJ those are OLD pics of my carbs as an example of what can happen.

When the slides get turned around backwards.
 
Thank you! I’m going to go look for that right now! The slide got stuck again once I push it back down. I hope what trek said finds the issue
 
Do you have "Honda" diaphragms w tab on the edge or aftermarket w no tab?

Also, if they did any hammering at all. It could cause a hole or tear in diaphragm. check them really close as holes can be small.
 
No, the diaphragms I used were from Common Motor Collective, and I sent them to PJ when he rebuilt everything. So, with that being said, I am not sure if they have the tab on the edge or if they dont have a tab.
 
cb360j said:
No, the diaphragms I used were from Common Motor Collective, and I sent them to PJ when he rebuilt everything. So, with that being said, I am not sure if they have the tab on the edge or if they dont have a tab.

They don’t only Honda have it.
 
Not yet. Yours may run great as is.

PJ did my carbs years ago. He may now offer a fix for the aftermarket diaphragms. Idk that they even need a "fix" these days, they may be good to go.

I dont have any experience w diaphragms from CMC. Mine wasnt even runnable w JBM diaphragms. (allowing slides to lift WAY to early)

I got brand new slides, diaphragms and springs from Honda and it runs great. (Honda no longer offers them.)

You can still find them for the time being. Bike Bandit says they have the stock Honda kits (slides & diaphragms w springs). But there $$$.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/honda/16022-369-004/b583812?m=9438&sch=399342
 
Yep, I drill the lift holes to compensate for slightly stiffer aftermarket diaphragms. It's easy enough to set them with lift holes to 'rear' of carbs. If the aftermaerket ones work, they will usually work for many years. However, JBM has had a few fuck ups where the mounting ring is not consistent, I had one diaphragm split while it was sitting on the bench, Paul basically told me to F*** off as they were past the 30 day warranty his idea of 'customer service' sucks
 
Sorry it took so long for update. Do you guys see anything amiss?
It was pretty difficult to pull from the hole. The upper edge of the slide, where the discoloration is, is slightly sticky... slightly.
 

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I just noticed this. To the left the little lip. And the two scratches on the face Still difficult to push back in. Is that normal
 

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Yep it was hammering that's exactly what I had down on the needle end.

File any edges of smooth.

Its due to getting twisted around in there backwards, vents on engine side.

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Got it all back together properly now. It’s still idling so high.
It also creeps when it isles. Can’t figure it out
 
Put a pair of sync gauges on it.

And once its fully warmed up. Like 10 minutes or more. Adjust A/F mix for fastest idle, according to the workshop manual procedure.
 
No idea what the sticky stuff is on top of slides,? Slides were clean and correctly installed when I did them so something happened in transit or when fitted?Use some brake cleaner or glue remover on a rag to wipe the stuff off, make sure not to get any on the diaphragms. I'm going to post some new pictures in carb/fuel section, probably a new thread or maybe add to a 'sticky'? I udjusted the link angles as they are always 'out', the set I just did were off by 30 degree's Bugger it, I'm posting them here as well ;D
 

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Update:

Bike still wasn't idling correctly, no matter what I did. Then it wasn't getting fuel. I took the carbs off, took the float bowls off to ensure nothing was gummed up. Took the fuel lines off and blew out the filters, they had a little bit of stuff in them which is what I expected because after I cleaned the tank there was some residual particles I couldn't get out. Then I removed the petcock and it was a bit more gunked up, so I cleaned it real well and got some more of the rust particles out of the tank, rinsed and dried and put in fresh fuel.
With the carbs off, I noticed that when PJ had them, he replaced a throttle shaft plug, but not both. The one he had not replaced was sort of beat up, and had a dent in it and was a little beat around the edges so I took the chance and put some silicon over the plug and made sure there were no air gaps..... put it all back on the bike and started it up, idled high for a minute or two then right on down where it was supposed to be.
So now, like trek told me to do I will sync the carbs once I get the opportunity and take it for a ride! Thank you all for the help
 
Does anyone have any recommendations on any particular master cylinder, with the pressure sensor built in, for these bikes? I'd rather not spend the money on a nissin but I will if I have to, I picked one up from dime city a while ago(not sure of brand), the aluminum casting turned out to be corrupted or just poor quality.
 
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