Yes, another CB360 Project - BRGT

Yeah, judging from the parts in the rearset, I'll have to fab up a connector Matt. That's not hard. I guess I thought I was buying a "plug and play" setup. But, in the spirit of modding up your project, what fun would that be if all the work was done for you?

The big question I have is on the brake side. A picture is worth a thousand words, and I would love to just see a photo of how this is installed.

I've reached out to 3dognate, the original beta tester for the CB360 rearset, but no response yet. I'll call Kris and see if he can put something together for me to follow. If anyone has purchased one of these rearsets I sure would like to see how you installed it for rear brake actuation.

**Update** Got the information I need to install these rearsets. Not as complicated as I made it out to be. :eek:
 
This is looking very nice, Love the motor and polishing. Really looks great, Awesome job!
 
Sonreir sent my newly nickel plated spokes back, and they look great. I highly recommend Matt if you want to kick your spoke restoration into high gear.



Time to lace up the wheels. The best youtube video I found for info is this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENrRl2FyNTw



Very informational.

Let the fun begin. . .



First you have to know the difference between the spoke angles. Right angle is for outside of hub, less than 90 deg is for inside lacing.











It took about 3 hours for both wheels. I did have to restart on the rear wheel. Got off 1 spoke in the begining. Next up is getting them trued, and then it's time to buy some Avon Roadrider AM26's! ;D
 
Looking good, man!

Next time you have to lace a wheel, it'll probably only take half the time.

Are you doing the truing as well?
 
Sonreir said:
Are you doing the truing as well?

Nah, I've got a friend that use to train with the olympic bike team in Colorado. He's got all the equipment to true them up perfectly.
 
Thanks Trek. The rear rim had more pitting than the front, but now that it's cleaned up and polished it has a nice "patina" to it. I like keeping and trying to restore the old stuff when possible.

Next paycheck is tires, and then I can start remounting things and moving forward.
 
No, not impolite at all. The nickel plating was charged at 85 cents per spoke. (72 spokes & nipples) $61.20 total. Matt charged $46 for the initial cleaning, transporting to and from the plater, and shipping back to me. A bargin in my mind. I believe it's cheaper if you just have the spokes zinc plated. You might check in with Matt (Sonreir) on pricing if interested.

Matt indicated the nickel plating was performed with "Electroless Nickel at .0002" thickness providing both a
good-looking and corrosion-resistant finish without affecting the threads at all."

He's right. Spokes look great, nipples slide into wheel, and threaded onto spokes with no issues.

I highly recommend Matt if you're considering spoke restoration.
 
Dragonfish said:
I must admit, your nipples look fantastic! ;D

Er, um, thank you Dragonfish. :-[ I'll bet you say that to all the boys you meet. Seriously, well worth the money.

I'm really enjoying your project. Keep up the good work!
 
In all seriousness I'm at the same point in my build. I've been cleaning up my wheels and trying to decide if its worth the effort to take it all apart and refinish or I was also considering painting the hub and spokes black and leaving the rim chrome. I keep going back and forth on it. Really enjoying your build!
 
Hey Matt,
I'm actually in the process of photo documenting it. I'll post it soon. I still need to fabricate the shift lever, but I think what I have will give you the idea you need.

Mike
 
mattfeet said:
Can you post up details of the install of your rear sets, please? I'd really appreciate it!

Matt

OK Matt - Here goes.
Since I don't have the engine mounted, the following information is going to focus on the installation of the brake side of the rear mounts from Durgam_K. Once you see it, the shift side will be a piece of cake.

**Disclaimer** The following depicts how I interpreted the installation. Your results may vary. This is not the "final" install, but just put together for illustrative purposes. I don't need to know that I didn't use a lock washer, or loctite, but I always appreciate it when someone points out a major mistake or has a useful suggestion. ;D

I found the bolt holding the peg bracket wouldn't thread into the existing captive nut, so, I cut them off:



This gives you an nice opening to work with:



Next, remove the rear brake pedal assembly from the pivot port:



Take the brake pivot arm and assemble to the shaft:



Slide on brass race:



Install spring on shaft:



So far, so good. Now slide the pivot shaft into the existing brake pivot port. Be sure the "upper" catch spring is engaged with plate above it:



Push the shaft all the way in until brass race makes contact.



Reach around and pull the bottom part of the spring so that it seats into the bottom notch of the pivot plate:



It should now look like this:



Install the brass race on the shaft:



Next, place the small lever on the shaft at the appropriate angle and fasten.



Now, assemble your foot peg and toe clip to the swingarm:



Now you have a choice. There are 3 possible mounting positions on the triangle bracket that holds the rearset pivot mechanism. Choose a position and attach:





The bolt needs to be positioned with the head on the inside to allow the rear spring arm assembly to clear it:



Connect the actuating shaft, or all thread between the pivoting foot lever and the small pivot plate. You will have to finagle it to make the connection. I believe you might have to adjust the size of the all thread to meet your installation setup.





On the inside large pivot plate, attach your rear brake actuating rod as shown. This too might need to be adjusted to fit your setup.



Finally, attach the connector between your rear brake light switch and the small front pivot plate:



Again, I'm in the initial stages of making this installation. I'm sure as I start in earnest, there might be some adjustments to be made. I don't see any big differences in the shift lever install on the other side.

This really is a quality piece of machining that Kris of Old School Speed has produced. Hope this pictorial helps.
 
I realized while fiddling around with the front drum brake assembly that I didn't have the support plate. I guess I didn't notice that it was missing when I bought it. So, I got to fooling around and fabricated a couple of options.

Anyone have a preference?

Flat plate



Stainless Steel rod



I'm kinda diggin on the rod. It seems to match the curvature of the shock. We'll see how it goes.
 
Wangofree said:
Nah, I've got a friend that use to train with the olympic bike team in Colorado. He's got all the equipment to true them up perfectly.

Sounds like a good CO source... would he want to help other peeps out? :D
 
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