Sounds like you may be adjusting the valves on the wrong stroke or the wrong part of the stroke.
crazypj said:You need to be TDC compression, probably set on overlap if really noisy?
May be exhaust leak if you tightened things in wrong sequence or didn't have all the bolts in place when re-fitting it
So what you have is an electronics tray, and then the battery separately? That's genius. Great work in fusion too I love that program its gold.huck_finn said:I am glad to know that I am hearing things.
I did end up moving forward with a new design on my electronics tray and battery box. I know that I want to eventually move away from my stock air boxes, and that I need a more snug battery box for my smaller battery. To give myself the ability to experiment with a few different options I decided to create a more modular style than my previous rigid model. The slots will let me attach the battery box in three different orientations by threading 1" webbing through the battery box and doing the same on the tray. The box should be ready by Wednesday, but the tray will have to wait till next week.
You can view a few other angles on my flickr album.
LED's may be sensitive to charge voltage fluctuation if your using too small a battery? It won't show up with a normal meter unless you have a PVA (peak voltage adapter, make one, Snap-on has a problem with the $28.00 one they sell) PVA's are actually 'fun' when your doing various voltage tests(12v side of ignition coil 'see's' around 320v spikes)huck_finn said:I am still having issues with my LEDs flickering. All of my grounds checked out for continuity, and I am still not seeing any voltage spikes/drops with my battery. I cut all of my soldering points for my top clamp and am waiting on some new bullet connectors to try and go straight from the 20 gauge wiring to my harness without soldering.
crazypj said:LED's may be sensitive to charge voltage fluctuation if your using too small a battery? It won't show up with a normal meter unless you have a PVA (peak voltage adapter, make one, Snap-on has a problem with the $28.00 one they sell) PVA's are actually 'fun' when your doing various voltage tests(12v side of ignition coil 'see's' around 320v spikes)
Fitting smoothing capacitors should cure any flickering. It's simple enough to get some 16v 1000 micro farad caps from old electronic components (Cathode ray TV's seem to be on every street corner when people have switched to flat screen LED TV's, 'dead 'surround sound, amps, clock radio's etc) Worst comes to worst you could always buy some, Radio Shack has a permanent sale on until they get rid of enough old stock to close various locations