CJ360 Build (my first)

Got to the media blaster's this afternoon to see how bad it was.

...not too shabby. Overall, I'm amazed the tank is as nice as it is, and utterly baffled why someone coated it so heavily with body filler.

Raw metal:

i-6DKd6Jj-XL.jpg


Of course, I felt I should give it a quick coat of sandable primer to prevent it from flash rusting.

i-tbPNmLj-XL.jpg


Slight indentation on this side, but nothing dramatic:
i-QqDGxwp-XL.jpg


This side is basically perfect:

i-TdcdtgJ-XL.jpg


And it's really hard to photograph, but there are a few, very small, dings in the top left region of the tank:

i-2StXcsx-XL.jpg


i-jN7jQfS-XL.jpg
 
That's in much better shape than I expected after seeing all the paint and primer you had to take off.
 
Integra99 said:
I have this issue with my CB400f popped on a new Cam chain but the horseshoe is stuck.. she runs lovely but I will have to split the cases to sort this once it starts to stretch. I'll only do 500 - 1000 miles in a year so it will be ok for a bit I hope.

Even then it's not a good idea as metal bits could be knocked off into oil
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.300
Scroll to post 343 to see what can happen
 
Hey guys, I've made a little bit of progress since I last posted, but not nearly as much as I'd like.

I got the cases split finally:
i-PgfXqn7-X3.jpg


The Cases did NOT want to come apart, perhaps something to do with all the RTV silicon that someone had smeared all around the edges of the case ...but nothing a wood drift couldn't help with.

Good news is most everything looks to be in great shape. The gear shift shaft being the exception. A loose chain, at some point, had done noticeable damage to the left side case and the shaft:

i-9xGKZsZ-X3.jpg


Enough burring that I needed to take a flat file (gently) to the shaft to pull it through the lower crank case without damaging the aluminum.

i-DGBZMKr-X3.jpg


Not sure how readily available a "clean" one will be, but I'll take a look around (I'll also need the long bolt that runs through the engine, to which the foot pegs attach, as mine is really bent).

Another fun note was that when pulling the oil filter assembly apart, I found this spiral of something trapped in there ...looked like a perfect tiny spring ...except it's aluminum. Haven't seen anything with a noticable gouge in it though, so I'm not too worried about it.

i-5qpqxzP-X3.jpg


Cheers.
 
Yep. You can probably just run that gear shift shaft. as long as those gouges aren’t in contact with any oil seals you’ll be fine.

Could also weld the gouges up and file it down if you want it to look “fixed”


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Easier to just use as is if it's smooth enough to fit trough seal without damaging seal.
Fit a piece po plastic tube over shaft after re-assembly, I've used various materials but plumbing PEX seems to come in a diameter that works and prevents further contact if chain comes loose. I've seen 'tubes' fitted to gear-change shafts on a few MX bikes, mainly a Yamaha thing. Maybe I should post the tip on CB350 forums as race 350's are known to pressurise cases sometimes then push seal out of case when they get hot.
Brendon had seal 'pop out' on his CB378
A new 'soft' seal cured problem but in the interim I fitted thrust washer, pre-load spring and tube,.
Outer cover holds everything in place
 
Quick question for the hive mind ...what's the best way to remove the main bearing from the output shaft? That sucker is really on there! Thought about freezing the whole thing, then using a torch to heat the bearing, but don't want to damage the bearing (not sure that's a good idea).

Thoughts?
 
ZenMoto said:
Quick question for the hive mind ...what's the best way to remove the main bearing from the output shaft? That sucker is really on there! Thought about freezing the whole thing, then using a torch to heat the bearing, but don't want to damage the bearing (not sure that's a good idea).

Thoughts?

I'd say a 3 jaw puller could probably get it off without damaging anything else, if I'm thinking of the correct bearing.

Why are you removing the bearing? Unless you plan on replacing it or playing with the transmission, you should leave it all together.
 
advCo said:
Why are you removing the bearing? Unless you plan on replacing it or playing with the transmission, you should leave it all together.

Thanks. ...and because the entire transmission is going to get isotropic super-finished, and I can't leave the bearing on for that process. I'm sure it's 100% overkill, but I'm also super OCD. lol
 
ZenMoto said:
Thanks. ...and because the entire transmission is going to get isotropic super-finished, and I can't leave the bearing on for that process. I'm sure it's 100% overkill, but I'm also super OCD. lol

Isn't that going to be horribly expensive?
To get bearings off, oil everything up real good, and put in a couple of ziplock bags
boil it up in old saucepan
get some 'freeze spray' from janitorial supplier
Remove from heat, unwrap, hold bearing with bearing separator, spray freeze spray into shaft though oil holes and it will probably fall right out
That is the only way I've found to remove the balance shaft gears on various Honda singles without damage when fitting new con-rod / big end bearing kit (they are designed to be a press fit)
 
Thanks for the tip. Not expensive at all, about $50 for the lot.

I will give your method a try over the weekend. :)
 
The gear teeth are pretty good to start with, is isotropic similar to micro-polishing?
Doing the longitudinal areas of gear shafts could probably make things slide a bit easier?
 
freeze spray also comes in a can from Loctite
http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8802649931777

you can usually find it at a NAPA store
 
I found a similar product at Autozone by CRC, called Freeze-Off, will be giving it a try this weekend.
 
MiniatureNinja said:
i've seen it around for a few years (I work at a napa)

I won't hold it against you that you went to autozone Zen... ;D

That's good ...I don't think there's a NAPA within 20 miles of here! lol
 
Okay ...progress has been really slow. Partly because we're running around for our daughter's gymnastics and me coaching our son's Little League team ...and partly because polishing aluminum is really, really, time consuming! lol

On that later note, these parts are starting to look promising:

i-dtZvZFV-X3.jpg


What else has been accomplished?

I got my head to A.P.E. Engineering and they've already reported back that the guides and valves are tip-top, just needs a basic service, so it's in process and headed home soon. I'm getting ready to send my running gear out for ISF (isotropic super finishing) but have hit a snag with one of the transmission shafts.

Can any of you experts tell me how this outer sleeve is held in place?

i-ZmZMXWV-X3.jpg


Is it simply pressed on behind the bearing, or is there a tiny pin staking it in place through the shaft? ...it seems likely it's just pressed in place, but I don't want to damage anything taking it apart. The other shaft I was able to pull the bearing with little effort by freezing the whole thing, then adding a little WD40 and some heat to the bearing while using the puller ...it eased right off. :)
 
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