Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
I built up a 440 a few years ago & hung around on a 400/440 forum for a while. there was a couple guys building hot rod 440s & they were leaving the balancer off all together.... saves weight & makes RPM changes quicker so they say. just a thought if you want to get really silly.
I built up a 440 a few years ago & hung around on a 400/440 forum for a while. there was a couple guys building hot rod 440s & they were leaving the balancer off all together.... saves weight & makes RPM changes quicker so they say. just a thought if you want to get really silly.
I'm going to leave the balancers in.
I believe the balancers are there to counter the force both pistons rising and falling together.
The rotating assembly should be taken care of by the crank counter weights.
Any gain from removing them will come from freeing up the power it takes to spin the balancers.
my understanding is that the chain driven balancers cancel the fore & aft moments that the crankshaft counterweights generate at the 90/270 degree positions. the crank weights on the cheeks are supposed to cancel the pistons' moment
I'd leave them in too if I was going to drive it around very much
At 0° & 180° the counter balancers and the counter weights on the crank are to split the balance weight to counter the rod and piston,50% & 50%.
At 90° & 270° they are opposed each other,thus canceling each other out, the weights and balancers.
If you have ever seen an old John Deere A, B, G, 50,60,70 etc... model tractor idle in neutral without the brake engaged.
You'll see it will rock forward and back in sync with those 2 big pistons on that big vertical twin.
That force is what I'm most concerned with.
Progress has been a little slow,electronics are not my strong suite.
But I've come up with something not so complicated that just might work.
The circuit was designed for replacing the ignitor on a Kawasaki KZ series.
It's a lot simpler than the other circuits I tried copying.
Besides the GM style ignition module, there are 2 diodes and 1 resistor.
I'll be reinstalling all the injection plumbing next time I'm home.
There will be pics to follow later.
Made some progress lately.
I used 2 GM sign. modules and received good results.
Not what I'm looking for,but closer.
Tried 2 stock Kawasaki electronic ign. IC ignitor boxes wired up the same also and it didn't work.
Maximum dwell/pulse width was 60% as shown on my meter.
At the typical 43.5 psi and 14 lb. injectors would be just under the target h.p..
Higher fuel line pressure will cover the difference.
Idle pulse width is to high.
I'm leaning to use a combination of a GM module and custom transistor circuit or use the 2 modules and an additional circuit to eliminate one 1 module circuit during idle/low rpm.
The timing will need to be rechecked before that step is taken.
Also I have a Radio Shack pulse width modulator kit to assemble to control the fuel pump.
Which in turn will be getting it's control signal from a Bosch wide band o2 sensor.
Been side tracked lately.
Doing a tune up and some general maintenance on a 440.
Thought it would be a good way to pick up a couple extra bucks.
Might be helping someone earn a Darwin Award instead.
Did pick up a parts bike.
KZ440 LTD belt drive.
Everything is there even the air box.
Brakes work,nothing bent.
Tires look good,only flat on one side,might get out a bead bag and hammer and straighten that out.
Would make a really good bike for someone but,no title or keys.
Throwing around the idea of having a third project bike.
18 in. spokes front and rear. 1.60/1.85 × 3.5
Stretch the swing arm and rake the front.
Lose the fairing,seat, wiring harness and belt drive.
Add turbo to blow thru the carbs to make the NA bikes in sportsman nervous.
Use the factory carbs and air box.
Got the forged pistons just need to bore the block.
Just basically need a GT12 or similar size turbo.
Swapped bikes with a local,said he was going to restore it.
Traded for his bobber/rat bike.
Did a little mock up to give you an idea of where I'm heading with this.
3.5×18, aftermarket rim, 650 and up spoked wheel hub.
Offset on the sprocket is more on the bigger bikes so I'll need to make an offset counter sprocket to match.
Not much ambition with lousy weather we have had. Maybe when spring finally gets here I'll pickup the pace a little.
I have wired up a bread board with a different circuit to try.
It is copied from a KZRiders.com members site.
The actual circuit he designed and built was used to replace the stock ignitor on a GPZ550.
This is just an experiment just like the GM hei module.
I have drawn up a circuit that is a simplified version to try after that.
Have had a little time to do some ebaying.
Found a Garrett GT1541 and a TD04.
The TD04 will work for the 750 project I have planned.
And GT15 (according to the online turbo calculators) for the 440 drag bike.
Been working on the toys of others and not mine.
Finished the dune buggy death ride and did a tune up on a young gentleman's KZ440 LTD bobber.
Sold him some brake parts so he could have front brakes.
Also I gave him a set of exhaust pipes and case guards with some hi way pegs,stuff I'll never use.
I did oil and grease my pickup and clean and rearrange the shop.
Only thing done the bikes was to solder up another circuit to try.
And some pics of what I'll try to put together next.
The modulator will be controlled by a wide band o2 sensor to then control the fuel pump.
I got tired of burning up transistors and have decided to stick with the GM hei ignition modules.
What I have done is realign the ring with two lobes I made that is tack welded to the end of the cam.
This works with the variable reluctor/pickup coil epoxied in the rocker box to send a signal to one of the hei modules.
Having the cam advanced one tooth (+ 10° from stock) now gives me 60% duty cycle max for the injectors.
Flowing enough fuel for 42 h.p. ,which is close to the 40 h.p. rating of the 440.
There will be two injector circuits.
The primary will be the one triggered by the cam .
It showed 14% at idle and 29℅ at wot.
The secondary will be the spare pickup coil down on the crank not use by the ignition.
It showed 18% at idle and 30% at wot.
The primary side will always be on.
The secondary will be switched on and off by an adjustable pressure switch plumbed into the oil system.
At idle it will be off and when rpm/pressure goes up it will turn on.
Primary and secondary overlap at idle.
Since the ignition advances with rpm so will the secondary side.
The ignition counter weights will need to be lightened to slow down and smooth out both the ignition advance curve and the duty cycle growth.
What I am hoping for is 14% at idle growing to 60% at wot with help from the pressure regulator ( psi ) and wide band o2 sensor and pulse width modulator ( volume).
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.