Du tra said:It.. what IT could handle lol
Why not hold the end mill in the chuck xb? I bought the attachment for that reason...to have some versatility with my lathe.xb33bsa said:that is actually a milling attatcment for da lathe, turn yer lathe into an end mill,just don't try to hold an end mill in a 3 jaw chuck
Tune-A-Fish said:This is one of those areas I have stayed away from.
The more I make dust with grinders the more I want to buy just a vice for the drill press to do some fine manual cuts that I would typically use a Dremel or die grinder. Can you tell me how much a small 1/2 horse drill press can handle as far as lateral pressure? do I need a special drill or Bridgeport type machine "only" for small tooling and cutting mild steel and aluminum? I'm in no way looking to hog out Goldie Locks curls just slow small cuts.
RD
a 3 jaw chuck on that small shank jut allows too much deflection and the cutter will just walk right out if you have a really good scuck with perfect ground straight jaws you might get away with it but these are the ultimate solotion and the bonus of taking the chuck off and otta the way is hugeDu tra said:Why not hold the end mill in the chuck xb? I bought the attachment for that reason...to have some versatility with my lathe.
Tune-A-Fish said:My Ninja is way cooler... Just look at the custom carby cutouts in the frame... I'm guessing this is for engine swapping on pit row??? Any ways $75 with title and bill of sale, should get a few dollars more and some parts out of the deal.
Ive done it that way for years lolTune-A-Fish said:Nevermind, The hobby machinist a mile away has a fridge for beer donations. and a tip jar for beer caps.
xb33bsa said:the key to that is stabillity of the quill and getting a good hold of the cutter,a drillpress just has too much movement and a cheap ass drill chuck,or even a good quality one just won't cut the muster to hold onto an end mill,it will walk right outta the chuck and don't even think about using a solid carbide cutter with a drill chuck in a drillpress or milling machine,it will basically just 'splode then yer out decent money
the milling attatchment for the lathe is a much better solution for small light projects but you still need to get a proper grip on the endmill and spin it true as well
my 12 " craftsman lathe has a taper in the headstock, after you take off the chuck and then you can fit a end mill specific holder in dare
i have the milling attatchment as well and it works fine for small parts, short travel cuts, not nearly as handy as a milling machine but for hobby stuff it can get you by
xb33bsa said:there eyse glaze over !! that is a classic ;D ;D
i tought a good friend to do basic machine work in the mill and on the lathe...it was a struggle and to this day he still insists on just using a drill chuck most of the time in the mill...neeedless to say he buys a lot of end mills !!
so funny the guy was a logger,a tree faller we builded racing chainsaws, hotsaws, with CR250 motors
dennis(still does build championship winning hotsaws) would be drilling say an oiler hole in a chainsaw bar.... which is some really tough semi-hard airhardening steel....ok there he would be with a 3/16 drillbit and the bit is screaming for life RED HOT ! and he just pushing harder and mad as hell, a red mist of furry surrounding him !!! .so many times i would explain...its not like wood, bud, once it is dull and no longer cutting yer dun !!
Tune-A-Fish said:Why choose? Build a quick connect and swap it out between the two assuming you can
surffly said:I have wanted a Z50 to run around the pits and swap meets with for a while.
But never seemed to find a good one.
Well I fell into a whole garage full of them!
Four complete bikes, 8-10 motors, wheels, fenders, ect.
Some of the parts are NOS in the Honda wrappers.
Ill be completely honest, its more then I want/can deal with.
Will slowly be getting the parts together for one or two to keep and will be offing the rest.
So if you need parts for a Z50 reach out, ill see what I have.