First Build; '75 CB360 (yes ANOTHER 360 build)

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Ok- I'm back. After a long break from the bike (travel for the holidays / travel for work for the past month...)

I made some progress today and got the frame torn down (except the triple tree, for which I need a wrench that's one mm bigger than my biggest wrench).

I started tearing down the rear hub and wonder how I remove the bearing without damaging it. I want to completely disassemble the hub so that I can have (both hubs, eventually) powder coated.

My plan of attack is to tap it out using an impact socket and a dead-blow hammer, as I don't have a press to push it out. Will it hurt to try? Thoughts?


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Impatience led me to try...I need a press.

At any rate I feel good about my progress today. I'm finally approaching the actual build, vs. taking greasy / rusty / old stuff apart.

Bear with me. I know that most of you would have had this bike apart in a day, but I'm learning as I go, and to have a completely stripped frame today is a milestone (for me).

More to come...


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Just pay attention as you pull things apart so you remember how it goes together. Once you've taken this thing apart a few times, you'll be able to assemble a complete bike delivered in boxes.
 
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I have, for the most part, been very methodical about my disassembly. I've been labeling and cataloging all parts whether I intend to keep them or not, so that I know how the bike went together. A 24 pack of carry out containers from Costco has been exceptionally helpful, but I'm almost out of containers...


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When it's going together, pay close attention to the parts fiche diagrams. They can tell you how washers stack up or which side a bolt or nut should go. It's especially helpful when learning the ins and outs of the motor and gearbox. Your first time assembling, do so like a LEGO set. Don't put anything together without referring to the fiche and a logical pattern will generally emerge and you'll know what is right and what isn't.
 
...good advice at any rate. When I started tearing this thing down I didn't take nearly enough photos / notes and I'm already paying for it.


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I have a clymer manual, but need to get an actual factory manual this week. Especially before I even think about touching the top end of the motor.

Thanks for your input.


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You need parts diagrams. If you can't find the Honda parts manuals, CMSNL.com has copies of the original Honda diagrams for just about any bike. This also offers descriptions about the parts, for instance thread diameter and length of bolts, most importantly part numbers.
 
Thanks Redliner- I was taught at an early age to respect torque specs, etc. but having the info is definitely the biggest part of doing it right. Thanks for the tip. I still plan to get a paper copy of my model-specific manual, but I'll certainly check out this resource. Digital is great, but it's also nice to make notes in your own hard-copy...


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deviant said:
Free copy of the Factory Service manual, the tensioner supplement, and the oiling issue technical bulletin...
... if you want to print it yourself.

http://www.hondabrat.com/2013/04/manuals.html

Good deal - thank you sir! I think I saw a link to this elsewhere on the forum, but would have been searching for a long time. Exactly what I needed. I will print and write notes to my heart's content.


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I think you may need to return to seat and fender mount.
Even in pic you can see there is more shock travel than clearance.
You'll either need substantially longer shocks or somehow limit travel.
It isn't the first time it's been done, just the first time for a few years ;D
You also need a much longer exhaust, short one messes up jetting and looses power
Are you keeping stock airbox?
If your using K&N filters (cheap pods don't work) you'll need to send me carbs sometime
 
crazypj said:
I think you may need to return to seat and fender mount.
Even in pic you can see there is more shock travel than clearance.
You'll either need substantially longer shocks or somehow limit travel.
It isn't the first time it's been done, just the first time for a few years ;D

Uh oh!! Are we talking about the same pic? You think there will be interference? (Note that the posted photo of the new fender in question was a "mock up" using a dog toy and whatever else was available at the moment while taking said photo.)

Am. I missing something?


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Probably. Stock shocks are about 9-7/8"~ 250mm fully compressed center to center of studs.
When mocking up, it's a good idea to drill a bar to bolt into shock position with shocks removed.
That way you can get 1/2"~3/4" tyre to fixed parts and know tyre won't act as a brake when suspension compresses
As I said,several bikes had the same problem a few years ago, some ended up being completely transformed into something different, others -no idea what happened
 
Exhaust is still a question on the table. It's cheap aftermarket junk at the moment. I'm still considering something custom once the rest of the build is done.

Fresh air: either way, no stock air box. I really like the look / sound of velocity stacks, but also realize the trouble / limitations. Thoughts on that?

--
The NEWB


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deviant said:
Free copy of the Factory Service manual, the tensioner supplement, and the oiling issue technical bulletin...
... if you want to print it yourself.

http://www.hondabrat.com/2013/04/manuals.html

I supplied a few of those, the oil pickup no one seemed to know about
AFAIK, I'm the only person who knows enough about CB360's and their carbs to be able to modify them for K&N filters.
If you check other 360 builds you'll find I've done several in the last few years, Trek97 is the only one with gas analyser so he's had a few 'experimental' pieces to play with
 
I had no idea about the oil pickup bulletin until Trek posted it on my build thread. I knew about opening up the orifice in the cover, but not the pickup.
 
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