First Build; '75 CB360 (yes ANOTHER 360 build)

Clearances? Crazy, you must be getting a little up there in the years to not appreciate the new hot look.
 

Attachments

  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1421637322.591910.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1421637322.591910.jpg
    263.4 KB · Views: 1,460
lol, the tore up seat look 8)
I actually rode a CB650 which got VERY interesting on the first dip in road. Luckily I was only doing about 25mph :eek:
 
crazypj said:
Probably. Stock shocks are about 9-7/8"~ 250mm fully compressed center to center of studs.
When mocking up, it's a good idea to drill a bar to bolt into shock position with shocks removed.
That way you can get 1/2"~3/4" tyre to fixed parts and know tyre won't act as a brake when suspension compresses
As I said,several bikes had the same problem a few years ago, some ended up being completely transformed into something different, others -no idea what happened
Click to expand...

Thanks - one thing at a time. I'll check clearances this week (which will require some reassembly...Uggh...) better now vs final assembly.

I do still think that the rear fender is high enough, but I don't want to find out that you're right. (The very hard way).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
It helps that you use the correct wheel and rim sizes. I wouldn't go over 2.15 rim width with a 100/90 at the rear. Including the Goldwing I posted above, I can show you some grossly over-sized tyres I have the pleasure of replacing now ;D

Want to know what it feels like when your tyres are too damn wide? Let the air out and have a rip.
 
crazypj said:
Probably. Stock shocks are about 9-7/8"~ 250mm fully compressed center to center of studs.
When mocking up, it's a good idea to drill a bar to bolt into shock position with shocks removed.
That way you can get 1/2"~3/4" tyre to fixed parts and know tyre won't act as a brake when suspension compresses
As I said,several bikes had the same problem a few years ago, some ended up being completely transformed into something different, others -no idea what happened
Click to expand...

Shit. As much as I hate to admit it, it's hard for me to not think of this bike as a static object in the garage in a controlled environment. Back to the drawing board?...?...?we'll see. That's all for now. I'll come back with my game-face on.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I think your clearance is fine. I'm 170 lbs and run 110/80VR18 and I get bump just below the bottom of the frame tubes. I also run the suspension a little stiffer front and rear. I feel like the stock 360 suspension is spongey as hell, anyway.
 
deviant said:
I think your clearance is fine. I'm 170 lbs and run 110/80VR18 and I get bump just below the bottom of the frame tubes. I also run the suspension a little stiffer front and rear. I feel like the stock 360 suspension is spongey as hell, anyway.
Click to expand...

I failed to mention that I weigh 140lbs wet, after eating a large pizza. Food for thought. I also plan to upgrade my rear shocks...

Either way, it doesn't change my plans for the frame so I'll forge ahead.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
...I can always change the mounting bracket for the rear fender if I need to without changing the newly powder coated frame...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I knew I had pics of CB650, sent them to builder - ended up putting 2-1/2" longer shocks on it
Sahir6.jpg

Sahir10.jpg
 
There is NO REASON not to do yourself the favor of dry-fitting before any paint and finish. Life will go infinitely better for you and women will find you irresistible.
 
crazypj said:
I knew I had pics of CB650, sent them to builder - ended up putting 2-1/2" longer shocks on it
Sahir6.jpg

Sahir10.jpg
Click to expand...

I'm still worried about clearances now. Time for bed...
1753f45cc2abf22778193ba81b97ada2.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Redliner said:
There is NO REASON not to do yourself the favor of dry-fitting before any paint and finish. Life will go infinitely better for you and women will find you irresistible.
Click to expand...

Solid advice. even for the experienced. I have completely assembled, and disassembled, my kz1000 project at least 5 times. I could probably do it in the dark now. As an industrial designer you should understand the necessity of prototyping. keep up the progress.
 
doc_rot said:
Solid advice. even for the experienced. I have completely assembled, and disassembled, my kz1000 project at least 5 times. I could probably do it in the dark now. As an industrial designer you should understand the necessity of prototyping. keep up the progress.
Click to expand...

Im getting there with reassembly / disassembly. A bit of progress this evening; for disassembly for refurb / service of he front forks. I still have to sort out rear shock travel.

1ccb5490732f5d721367ae66403f7a8e.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Still wondering about seal removal, as mine won't budge but are in great shape and I don't want to damage them:

55fed7ad747babe7ba19ec468289d89c.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
... Yes, I'm also still referring to my clymer manual, which I know isn't ideal. However, this diagram shows they should slide out after removing the circlip.
b77f47863595e545a9b66e3cac8ed2a3.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
trek97 said:
manuals...
http://www.hondabrat.com/2013/04/manuals.html
Click to expand...

Thanks - I'll stop posting until I do some actual homework...

...that's not sarcasm

It's been too easy to ask others sometimes...I'll come back when I have this apart or have a real problem.

I do appreciate the support, and sometimes need tough love.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
New seals are not expensive. You have them apart, so go ahead and replace the seals.
 
deviant said:
New seals are not expensive. You have them apart, so go ahead and replace the seals.
Click to expand...

Got it - destroy and replace (they just seem "good", but your right, it's a wear-item.). I just want to be sure I understand the assembly / disassembly, vs tearing into things. Those seals are really seated, which gave me pause.

Thanks.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom