GS500 Brat - Bike build 2.

I've decided to go with notching the tube rather than use the spigots.


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Now that's the right bit of kit to do it with! How did they come out?

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The first one was excellent, however the second one, at the very end of the cut, the cross slide moved, even though it was as tight as the gib screw could be. It wasn't too much of a drama, more annoying, just means a slightly bigger gap at one point. It'll be sorted when welded.

The issue I had is that the hoop is already made, which meant the other end to the end being notched, fouled on the mounting nut of the compound table. I had to push the tube further through the vice, as the taper of the tube widens. The issue with this is that the where the tube meets the end mill is then less supported and cause some vibrating.

But all good in the end. I still have the spigots as a fall back if, but everything looks ok. Just a shame to waste some round stock making the spigots. Oh well, live and learn.


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Karlloss said:
The first one was excellent, however the second one, at the very end of the cut, the cross slide moved, even though it was as tight as the gib screw could be. It wasn't too much of a drama, more annoying, just means a slightly bigger gap at one point. It'll be sorted when welded.

The issue I had is that the hoop is already made, which meant the other end to the end being notched, fouled on the mounting nut of the compound table. I had to push the tube further through the vice, as the taper of the tube widens. The issue with this is that the where the tube meets the end mill is then less supported and cause some vibrating.

But all good in the end. I still have the spigots as a fall back if, but everything looks ok. Just a shame to waste some round stock making the spigots. Oh well, live and learn.


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I know it's sacrilege to cut wood on a metal lathe but you can always stuff the tube with a dowel to stiffen it internally.
 
That's a good idea, I'll use that in future. The notches are good for what I need.

I've made the mounting plates today. Rough cut them with a jigsaw, then machined them to square the edges. If only I had a guillotine, could have done it in seconds rather than the best part of a day.
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Good work on the brackets, I weighed up making my own, but decided to get them laser cut for £15 ($20?) for four! I'm away on holiday at the moment but hopefully they will be there when I get home. Need to get them tacked on so I can start notching some pipe!

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Yeah, laser cutting is the better option, especially at that price. I bought a sizeable sheet of 3mm for £3. But when you factor in the time, laser cut would have been the better option.


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Brackets have turned up, I just need to get them tacked up and get the subframe notched and mounted up.

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cinch said:
So I've welded up and ground down the lower subframe arms this evening, due to the angles involves they couldn't be bent in the garage so I've made them out of schedule 10 stainless bends and pipe - my first time working with stainless and probably my last

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I did buy this little badboy the though, worth its weight in gold! And did a great job of finishing up the welds.
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That looks super useful. Where can I buy one?


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So having thought I would be able to use a lathe to notch the tubes of the main seat frame it turns out it wouldn't fit due to its shape, size and mainly the fact that it already has reinforcement bars welded in it was never going to happen. The lathe should work ok for the lower frame mounts we'll see how it goes.

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Instead I've gone a bit more traditional and semi eye balled it with a notching template that you can find online.

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I also used a jubilee clip to get some straight lines around the circumference of the tubes.
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Fitted the template inside the jubilee then traced over it to give the waste that needs to be removed
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Removed the waste tube with a hacksaw slowly, then tidied it up with the mini belt sanded that just so happens to have a 1" diameter top roller so it made tidying up the notching a piece of cake!
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Looking good. I've used the template method before, I think it gives just as good results and is a lot quicker.


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Things are starting to move forward now! This afternoon I've tacked on the upper brackets and tacked the upper subframe, once I'm content I'll take it down to the local fab shop and get it tigged up.
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Do you need to TIG it? MIG would be enough. The only reason I say this is TIG puts a lot more heat into the metal, granted it looks much nicer, but would this weld be exposed/visible? The down side with more heat is the risk of distortion.


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My MIG isnt man enough to get good penetration on the tube and stock I'm welding, well not enough to rest my life on it! it's only used for sheet metal and tacking really, I need to buy a new machine, and put the little sip105 in the scrap pile.

I want it tigged for strength but I'm also a sucker for pretty welds!

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Yeah I get that. My MIG is a 110, gives good penetration, I would have thought a 105 would be ample. I hear what you're saying, my brother in law is a professional welder and he has looked at my welds and says there is no problem, hence I would expect your welds with a 105 to be safe enough.


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