cb350 to cafe' from scratch by a teen

To be honest, I used to check them but rarely found any problems.
Usually the link pin on piston and maybe the end of arm had most wear wich got fixed by reaming out and making oversize pin (and sometimes new piston)
 
i only looked at mine and ones i was breaking down after i started talking to these vintage roadracing nuts from sweden who bought all my cyb350 kit
every 350 and 450 except 3 or 4 out of a dozen were pretty sloppy loose and granted it doesn't decrease the stroke a bunch at all but as you know every little thing adds up
they say the 450 clutch/primary drive/pump drive is the best cb350 mod going and it is incredibally easy to do
its basically a bolt on just gotta shorten the outer 450 basket
i am consifdering eliminationg the transfer peace and just plumbinmg a homebuilt extrennal cannister for a filter cartrigs
e
there is actually room in the case
 
At least it's relatively easy to bypass the transfer piece. 8)
The centrifugal filter is way more efficient at removing particles than any cartridge filter (unless you fit a giant two-three micron one ;D )
I'm going to try something a little different on at least one CB360 motor.
External oil line to cam before the filter. Small bore so oil follows normal route when cold then automatically feeds cam when oil thins down and pressure goes up at high rpm. Obviously there will be some oil feeding through pipe when engine is running but any extra going to cam will be a good thing
 
crazypj said:
At least it's relatively easy to bypass the transfer piece. 8)
The centrifugal filter is way more efficient at removing particles than any cartridge filter (unless you fit a giant two-three micron one ;D )
I'm going to try something a little different on at least one CB360 motor.
External oil line to cam before the filter. Small bore so oil follows normal route when cold then automatically feeds cam when oil thins down and pressure goes up at high rpm. Obviously there will be some oil feeding through pipe when engine is running but any extra going to cam will be a good thing
1 often wonerd if the centrifugal was vary efficient and you say it is so now i learned shit
i built one from scratch,an a ext oil filter cannister,using gs suzuki pleated paper,for my xl250 the best thing about it was it looked quite cool machine from it was omly like 3x3x3inches cubical but a cilynder solid 6061 round bar but the full compliment deep cooling fins i put in it made it look oh so trick i thinlk i used a .100 wide parting tool
and so ,my pattern i do remember plunge .180'' something like that then carriage travel 180 plunge again and repeat the fins had a very pleasing cadence when done 100 wide grooves .80 wide fins.it seams they always look better with a that slant of perportons
i learned it turning finned weed pipe bowls ,then selling them at high school to the rich kids
goddam they got hot ,but looked super cool,like a part of a fox airshock
 
This isn't really progress but I got some of the nuts and bolts all nice and clean.

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Kudos to you young sir ............................. life was a lot easier for me as an 18 year old - plenty of cheap parts [ Triumph, BSA, Enfield, etc.,etc. ;D] and I missed military conscription [ which had just ended ] - by the way keep your head down.

I've sent parts to various peeps in Israel in the past few years - if there's anything I can look out for you just let me know. I'll be happy to search for parts, consolidate here and send them to you.
 
beachcomber said:
Kudos to you young sir ............................. life was a lot easier for me as an 18 year old - plenty of cheap parts [ Triumph, BSA, Enfield, etc.,etc. ;D] and I missed military conscription [ which had just ended ] - by the way keep your head down.

I've sent parts to various peeps in Israel in the past few years - if there's anything I can look out for you just let me know. I'll be happy to search for parts, consolidate here and send them to you.

Thank you very much!! I'd really appreciate that!


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I've got a bit of a problem with the motor hanger. They're all rusted and I want to soak them in vinegar but they still have the rubber bushings inside of them. I started prying them out but stopped to do a little research and found out that they're impossible to obtain. So I'm basically asking what should I do?
Here's a couple of pics of what the hangers currently look:

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These are the parts I'm talking about:

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Can you have them bead blasted? Vinegar will degrade the rubber. Another option would be to wire wheel them.


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alonb said:
I've got a bit of a problem with the motor hanger. They're all rusted and I want to soak them in vinegar but they still have the rubber bushings inside of them. I started prying them out but stopped to do a little research and found out that they're impossible to obtain. So I'm basically asking what should I do?
Here's a couple of pics of what the hangers currently look:

b6ad396a3c870f0862f63d9a02907035.jpg
d2f042222fce2787704c616b9a7150ec.jpg


These are the parts I'm talking about:

43a082d3a843891d7871205dfd2af56a.jpg



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just paint them if you must and move on but there is nothing wrong with them and they are not even visible
its best not to start fixing things that do not need repair
 
revel.motorcycles said:
Cool! Any progress?

Life eventually gets in the way...but the bike will always remain!

Yeah I ended up using a wire wheel on them and turned out pretty well. I'll post a pic of them later today.


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Ok so I thought I was insane sanding pieces of aluminum over a bucket in the living room but after seeing the final results I'm blown away and it justifies the hours I've put on them. I still have a lot of sanding left but it's good to see what you'll achieve eventually to get you going.
Before:
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After :
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Nice work on the polishing. I'm currently polishing a few bits for my 350, takes a time and effort but result is worth it.
 
HerrDeacon said:
Nice work on the polishing. I'm currently polishing a few bits for my 350, takes a time and effort but result is worth it.

Thanks!! Result is definitely worth it!
 
Reassembly!!!
So I started reassembling the engine. I put the new pistons (65.5 mm) and made it up to the cylinder head. That's when I discovered that the right screw hole's threading is worn out.

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(You can't actually see in in the picture but just to point out what hole I'm talking about)

So I have no clue on what to do now...

Also I noticed that there is a gap between the cylinders and top crankcase.

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Is that gap gonna disappear when I tighten the 8 nuts on top of the cam case cover? Or should that not be there?

Here a pic of how the engine currently sits.

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Also some pics of the process putting it back together (my friend photobombed a couple of them):

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Looks like you have a dowel contacting the gasket. (you can see it's 'curled' slightly on left side) Lift cylinders slightly (about 1/4"- 6mm~8mm) and make fure gasket can sit flat against cylinder base. Then you should be able to lower everything without a gap
 
Ok so I found out what the problem was with the gap. The old o-rings were so dry that I didn't even notice them on the cylinders and I put the new ones on the old ones. So tomorrow I'll put it all back together.

Now, I just have to figure out what to do with the one screw hole that's threads are all screwed up...


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Either get it Helicoiled or buy a 'Recoil' kit. (may have to use eBay?)
They are the same as Helicoils but less than 1/3 the price.
I prefer 'Helicoil'/Recoil to the solid inserts, (solid are easier to fit but also cover a lot of bad work.)
Just took a look on eBay, WOW, Helicoils have come way down in price.
The sets I bought in the early 80's were almost $200 each
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H1.XThread+repair.TRS0&_nkw=thread+repair+kit&_sacat=0
 
crazypj said:
Either get it Helicoiled or buy a 'Recoil' kit. (may have to use eBay?)
They are the same as Helicoils but less than 1/3 the price.
I prefer 'Helicoil'/Recoil to the solid inserts, (solid are easier to fit but also cover a lot of bad work.)
Just took a look on eBay, WOW, Helicoils have come way down in price.
The sets I bought in the early 80's were almost $200 each
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H1.XThread+repair.TRS0&_nkw=thread+repair+kit&_sacat=0

That's because back in the day, they didn't have the need for them. Things were built better.

Sh1t, stuff rolling off the assembly line nowadays have coils in them already, and all they say is, oh well, we'll fix it if it hits the warranty list.
 
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