2x stroke street tracker - project coming together slowly.

Also, I'm not sure you want to remove the overflow tube and re-fit. They should be press-fitted into the bowl, which makes them likely to crack over the years of vibration. Just use MECHANICAL solder versus electrical solder, with some flux and they'll fix the cracks. I have to solder about 10 of those a year with the carbs people bring in for cleaning. As for the missing jet, you can likely find a replacement one easily enough. If you get stuck, holler and I'm sure someone will get a link to what you need pretty quickly. Keep going! This is shaping up nicely :)
 
MotorbikeBruno said:
Also, I'm not sure you want to remove the overflow tube and re-fit. They should be press-fitted into the bowl, which makes them likely to crack over the years of vibration. Just use MECHANICAL solder versus electrical solder, with some flux and they'll fix the cracks. I have to solder about 10 of those a year with the carbs people bring in for cleaning. As for the missing jet, you can likely find a replacement one easily enough. If you get stuck, holler and I'm sure someone will get a link to what you need pretty quickly. Keep going! This is shaping up nicely :)

Thanks for the head's up but I have no plans to remove any of the tolerance fitted parts.....just a good clean up will do.
I've located a replacement pilot jet, bought two, for £2.50 each, so they match as they're pattern jets.

I'm plodding away at it....it all takes time, especially when asking favours from friends :)
 
Oh, rock on. For some reason I thought I read something about replacing an overflow tube during the carb vent discussion. Disregard my comment :p Carry on man!
 
Hey....I've not gone away.

Been waiting for my tame turner to produce the goods....

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Had a pair of needleroller bearing races that spigot into the modified crush tube, to form one piece centre, which has turned out well.
Also, he's made me a L306 s/s spindle bolt with open threads on each end so I can use stainless nylocs to pinch it up.

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Meanwhile, towards the front end I've made a first attempt at mounting the Brembo.....getting there with my first attempt to get into my rough mock up. I'm trying to get my head around how the final adapter will look.
Any advice on what material to use? I'm thinking 4mm mild steel plate with spacers welded to it.

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Ignore that the caliper isn't aligned with the disc....it'd slipped on the loose bolts.

I need metric fine thread bolts.
 
If that lower fork leg mount was thick enough you could trim some off that to reduce the length of the spacers in that area. Approximately twice the diameter for the thread depth is suitable for aluminium applications, so if it's an 8mm mounting bolt then 16mm would be plenty deep enough. You probably have thought of this already but use a single piece of steel for the adaptor. I would use 6061 alloy if it was mine, but that involves some machining.
 
Pete12 said:
If that lower fork leg mount was thick enough you could trim some off that to reduce the length of the spacers in that area. Approximately twice the diameter for the thread depth is suitable for aluminium applications, so if it's an 8mm mounting bolt then 16mm would be plenty deep enough. You probably have thought of this already but use a single piece of steel for the adaptor. I would use 6061 alloy if it was mine, but that involves some machining.

Both the fork mounting holes are not threaded so would take a nut n bolt....but I like the idea of reducing the lower a touch, thanks.
I'll make a precise timber buck and see what my options are.
I happen to know someone who has CNC machines and could/would mill me an alloy adapter or I could cobble together one in steel...hmmm?
 
If you have the option, go with the CNC milled one, that's for sure. Very easy to do and will look great.
 
Some progress yesterday.

Paid a visit to my local fastenings co to have a rummage....looking for M14 metric fine nylocs for the swingarm but they only had the common metric thread :(

So, drove 20miles to my other supplies co and bingo,not nylocs but they'll do for now :)
The cherry on top is they also have a fabrication shop, so popped in to see if I could score some thickwall 14mm i/d mild steel tube/pipe to fashion the engine mounts......they didn't have what I wanted, but a good chat later and they have offered to carry out any specialist welding and fab to help me.....for beer money too ;)

That's all for now folks...
 
Pete12 said:
If you have the option, go with the CNC milled one, that's for sure. Very easy to do and will look great.
I'm considering chopping the Malaguti/Paioli caliper mount off and having a custom one welded in stead of messing with a cumbersome adapter......any issues?
 
As the swingarm is in place I can now set the rear wheel to get an idea of spacers, sprocket position and brake mounting...

Only used some threading I had but it'll give me a precise position and dimension opportunity so the axle can be machined to suit. Bit tricky to fit up, there's no bearings in the wheel, and the threading is too thin...but it'll do.

Centres OK

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Ordered sprocket mounts and locking circlip. .Sprocket alignment looks good and should line up with the primary.

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There's a stop block on the caliper mount that is a long way away from the swingarm and at the wrong angle to slide with chain adjustment....so, I'll use a brace bar instead. Mounted to the caliper mounting bolt/lug and using the swingarm mount for a brace bar...which is handy :)

Ever forwards...
 
NoRiders said:
I'm considering chopping the Malaguti/Paioli caliper mount off and having a custom one welded in stead of messing with a cumbersome adapter......any issues?
That's not a bad idea, but you need to be careful as welding on the lower fork leg is quite likely to distort it marginally, and you will also need to heat treat it after welding.
 
Pete12 said:
That's not a bad idea, but you need to be careful as welding on the lower fork leg is quite likely to distort it marginally, and you will also need to heat treat it after welding.

Hmmm...that sounds a bit involved, heat treatment? Getting it hot then cold or oil dipping?
I could have it TIG'd which reduces distortion I believe?
 
I've TIG'd plenty of dual disc conversions for Harleys and never had a problem (always heat treated them though), but have also done smaller Yamaha's and Kawasaki's and have had the bottom of the leg go out of round. I've fixed it by honing it but if it's tight in one spot then it's loose in another spot so it's not an ideal situation.
 
Pete12 said:
I've TIG'd plenty of dual disc conversions for Harleys and never had a problem (always heat treated them though), but have also done smaller Yamaha's and Kawasaki's and have had the bottom of the leg go out of round. I've fixed it by honing it but if it's tight in one spot then it's loose in another spot so it's not an ideal situation.

Hmmm...thanks for your insight. I'm exploring an alternative fork option...ie using the NSR forks and caliper to suit the wheel/disc I already have.
The entire assembly will work, I hope the fork stem fits the 400/4 framehead?
Just won't have the Brembo caliper....I can live with that given the issues to fit it
 
You know when the logic of an idea runs out...when it doesn't make sense anymore?.....I've reached that point I think.

As much as I like the Paoili forks, making them work with everything, wheels, disc, calipers..even speedo drive is all getting much too involved.

Taking a step back....I reckon using NSR125 forks will simplify matters and still work as everything up front will work together....simples :)
 
Sonreir said:
That's what we tell all the newbies, right? Get it working first, then tweak it.

I'm with you on that point, but in my case the amount of adaptation simply to fit one part ran out of logic and sense IMO. Sure, get something running/working before dicking with it...my bare frame and bitsa project couldn't afford me that luxury ha!

So, decision made, money spent...items incoming after we're back from our 1 week European tour.


Forks needing new seals (no problem), yokes (to have bar clamps fitted), two wheels and various parts....the seller is chucking in a few other parts too :)
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I get a white wheel, so I can see how my colour scheme will flesh out.
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Sprocket mounting studs, rear wheel bearing seals, thickwall tube & threading also incoming. Looking to get the rear wheel mounted and spaced out so I can fix it in position, align the sprocket with the primary sprocket and fashion some engine mounts...let's get the bloody engine mounted in place and then I can decide on an engine case finish and build the thing.
 
After a week away on a European farewell tour (heheh) I managed some time in the garage.

Wanted to finally sort the swingarm pivot.... I had to shave off another 1.5mm from the swingarm body to allow the 1mm PTFE washers to sit snugly.
I don't have access to a milling machine so a cutting disc and file did the job :)

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I made PTFE washer/dust covers to protect the needle roller bearings from shit.
Bought a flat sheet of white PTFE and cut/shaped/drilled them into the size I needed. They fit between the pivot point, sitting larger than the inner bearing race so I can now tighten the swingarm spindle fully.

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Threading and mild steel tube arrived so I was able to fashion the front lower engine mount...ears/lugs will be welded to locate the engine casing once I jiggle the engine into position.

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Doesn't seem much, but the swingarm can now be installed so I can set the rear wheel in position...once it and the front forks arrive :)
 
Think I've found my footpeg solution :)

Could align nicely....more fettling needed.

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I picked them up at a hot rod event today and paid £10 for both of them....worth a punt at that price.

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Anyone recognise them? Bought as an unknown set....the fella couldn't confirm, but he did have other Kwacker parts for sale?
 
I now know the pegs are off a ZZR600...hmmm, think I'll allow a Kwacker part on the Suzonda....proper mix n match :)
 
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