I am using the stock stator with a new regulator / rectifier. If you use a Li-Ion battery such as the shorai, you definately want to upgrade the R/R to modern technology. If you use the stock regulator, you will probably ruin the shorai, ballistic or antigravity batteries because the stock regulator output is too high voltage for these newer chemistry batteries, and they will cook battery. Definately worth purchasing this mosfet unit at the link below. Jack from roadster cycle is very helpful and will answer questions regarding the unit. For the specific model of shorai i used, refer to picture above. Its the smallest case size they make. Its 12V and has 220 CCA for starting.
Here is the item I used for the R/R:
http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm
Its pretty easy to re-wire the bike. I break it down into three separate systems. Each is independent of one another. 1) charging/ CDI/ Coils 2) starter 3) lights.
1) Once you toss away the stock harness, it is relatively simple to wire it up. Use the directions on the new R/R. The charging/ ignition system is its own electrical system that is independent from lights and everything else. The stator has three yellow wires that go to the new R/R for charging output. There are two additional wires coming from R/R that go to battery positive and negative- these are the leads that charge the battery. The CDI connects to the coils and a kill switch thru the single black wire. Kill switch is a 'normally closed' or NC switch. When the switch is not depressed, the CDI grounds to the frame and the coil is firing. When you push the kill button, the circuit opens (or breaks continuity of circuit) and the CDI is no longer grounded and the motor kills. If you have these items in #1 wired correctly, the bike will run by itself without any additional wiring connections.
2) Then you have the starting system. A large gauge positive lead goes from positive battery terminal to the starter solenoid (i used a generic honda aftermarket solenoid from ebay). The other large terminal post on the solenoid has a large gauge wire that goes to starter. There are two additional smaller terminals or wires coming from solenoid. One goes to your starter button and the other goes to the battery positive. Then you have to run another wire from the other terminal on the starter button to frame ground. Starter button should be a 'normally open' or NO switch. When button is not depressed, the circuit is open. Once you depress switch, it closes circuit, completing the loop between battery-solenoid-switch-frame ground, and starter motor will fire. This is also its own contained system, separate from everything else. I run the small wire from battery terminal to small wire on solenoid thru the ignition switch (see below., step #3), so that you cannot start bike unless ignition key is in.
3) third and final is the lights and ancillary stuff. For this, you run a separate 15A fused positive lead from battery to your ignition switch. Other end of ignition switch will then go to all the lights. I basically have four positive leads exiting ignition switch, each going to its own location. One lead goes to running lights on tail. One lead goes to the rear brake lights thru the brake lever switches and then to brake light. One lead goes to the turn signal relay- turn signal switch- then to turn signals. One final lead goes to headlight switch. I used a three way button switch with off-hi-lo.
You then run a ground lead from each of the lights to the frame. If you want horn or other accessories- just run additional positive leads from the ignition switch to their respective areas.
I know this is real simplified in my explanation, buts its actually very easy if you break it down into individual components and take your time. Do a search for "simplified wiring harness" to get a diagram. Also, note that I eliminated all the idiot lights, neutral light, warning lights, clutch safety relay, headlight kill relay, etc, etc. You don't need these things and this will really simplify things. I basically threw out my stock wiring harness and wired my own up in a couple hours. Soldering gun is recommended. Also recommend crimper tool so that you can crimp your butt connectors. I purchased a $4 crimper at menards and it works just fine.
Also, you can go to bellicomoto website and sign up for a free account. They have a simplified CM450 diagram.
If you want actual specifics on the switches, controls, ignition, etc- I can supply those links. PM me directly.