acetelyne n hammertone ADVtwin
- Thread starter xb33bsa
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Hard to beat the cast iron (heavy as hell, but bombproof and one is plenty!)! Excellent job sorting out the issues - end result looks great in spite of them! I've got quite a lot of those swanky screws myself - stumbled on to them at a military surplus and got them for peanuts. Never seen them again 'till now. Almost cool enough to invent projects too use them on. I ended up making a driver out of a big Phillips driver. Just ground it down - cut and try - with one of those tiny Dremel cut-off wheels in a die grinder. Was a lot easier than it sounds but takes a bit of care to get a really good proper fit.
Those are torq-set screws. They're used in torque sensitive applications, particularly in aerospace.jpmobius said:
http://apexbits.com/apex-torq-set-screwdriver-bits.aspx
jpmobius said:
hah ha ! i got mine from a mil surplus yard too up in butte county ca,oroville, gold country bigtime gold found around there and harvested it was hydraulically..big ass water cvannons to wash away whole hillsides yep them rocks and earth that geography is fastinating the study of rock
pickedf ti like a madman,lots of others as well ...steel and ss all military aircraft grade boom yeah for penuts ?more like
moldy black walnuts, a 5 gallon bucket 3/4 full for 17 dollers
it can be a daunting task ,to keep your eyes p-eeled and focused for for Ti when so much else is pickable
these were 10x20 foot long 2 ft deep metal bins i guess but it was greuling,you had to listen to birds tweating and the gentle breeze blowing ,ah it was tough every time i went down there got sunburnerd neck and finger tips raw from digging in a huge variety of small hardware with plenty of ti ;D ;D
there is one final detail i will mention because it has wide applications when planting down a single part as these buttons or bolting/planting down an assembly or motor mount bolts especially7 the long bolts with spacers
it is the butt fit learned at 18 when making 20ft long sections of line shaft and couplers (simply a heavy walled internally threaded tube)that spins 1750 pumping irrigation water, deep well turbine pumps
if you screw it together with threaded couplings the ends of the shafts must BUTT perfectly together to assure the securuty of that joint and to keep it precisly straight so as not to get to whipping at speed the butt ends are machined across the face with accuracy with the shaft spinning dead true
the centers are counterbored slightly so the butt fits are a ring of outer contact
done correctly the shafting runs true and stable even at 300ft long and 1750rpm
the same principle more or les so your assembly is actually tight is to relieve the ends of those motor mount tube spacers and anything planted down with a bolt this prevents rocking of the joint on those buttons i just made the thru hole in them 11/32 instead of 1/4'' because the heads were centering the button anyway, but it more secure and has more potential strtength as a joint when the plant down is a ring of contact out away from the shank of the bolt
its just little details, thats all
it is the butt fit learned at 18 when making 20ft long sections of line shaft and couplers (simply a heavy walled internally threaded tube)that spins 1750 pumping irrigation water, deep well turbine pumps
if you screw it together with threaded couplings the ends of the shafts must BUTT perfectly together to assure the securuty of that joint and to keep it precisly straight so as not to get to whipping at speed the butt ends are machined across the face with accuracy with the shaft spinning dead true
the centers are counterbored slightly so the butt fits are a ring of outer contact
done correctly the shafting runs true and stable even at 300ft long and 1750rpm
the same principle more or les so your assembly is actually tight is to relieve the ends of those motor mount tube spacers and anything planted down with a bolt this prevents rocking of the joint on those buttons i just made the thru hole in them 11/32 instead of 1/4'' because the heads were centering the button anyway, but it more secure and has more potential strtength as a joint when the plant down is a ring of contact out away from the shank of the bolt
its just little details, thats all
ok more pitchurs less talk
o rdered wheel bearings front they sent me wrong ones 17 bore not 15 so once again i took the hard rode
had to dig up an axle in 17 came up with a heat treated steel hollow axel from a can am
then of course had to bore the slider axil bosses to fit
i hope the larger axle and more secure lashup it provides doesnt hurt the handling
o rdered wheel bearings front they sent me wrong ones 17 bore not 15 so once again i took the hard rode
had to dig up an axle in 17 came up with a heat treated steel hollow axel from a can am
then of course had to bore the slider axil bosses to fit
i hope the larger axle and more secure lashup it provides doesnt hurt the handling
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xb,
How did you center the axle hole with the lathe axis? Did you indicate off the chuck? From the picture of the dead center in the tailstock, maybe you just manually aligned the axle bolt hole with the cross slide. Doubtless more than accurate for this application. I am always interested in clever machining, and you are quite clever. In any event, great stuff, thanks for posting.
R
How did you center the axle hole with the lathe axis? Did you indicate off the chuck? From the picture of the dead center in the tailstock, maybe you just manually aligned the axle bolt hole with the cross slide. Doubtless more than accurate for this application. I am always interested in clever machining, and you are quite clever. In any event, great stuff, thanks for posting.
R
good question i had 15mm spindle swingarm i think and also some bushingsRR100 said:
just the spindle for opne leg spindle and bushing for the other
the spindle had a good center so i slip the spindle thru the fork leg boss chuck it up and slide in the tailstock/live center
then let the leg fall into the clutches of the vice
play around with it matybe rotate the vice slightly or shim to the fork leg in the vice jaws
fiddle with it until the carrige can be cranked back and forth with no perceptable drag some grease on the spindle helped witness if an edge was scraping
thats it crude ,plenty accurate
i had an extra leg to do proof of set-up
the drilled hole was drilled right to size the 17mm hole i used a small single point tool in a bar,.boring bar held at 3 jaw chuck and steadyed by the live center
a simple bar that you unloosen set screw and bump the tool out for next cut
thank pjcrazypj said:
for a boring bar i used that same fox factory shock shaft which you will notice is cross drilled i used a cb350 crankshaft roller bearing roller for the cvutting tool just ground an acceptable cutting edge on it
then a long allen bolt as set screw from the end of the shock shaft and the live center jammed into the head of the allen bolt
the boring bar had a little runout but we dont care cause its single point cutting
here is the final fork detail i was gonna throw it together then down the vrode new seals the du bushes are new,but fuk that i am going for final assembly the day i turn the last wrench it will be ready to go out and break in the new bore and nos cam and nos head and valves s
gold valve and seat for to plant,turned to fit to damper rod piston kinda of a before and after and the shortening and ventilation of damper rod to shorten the damper i simply cut off the threaded end and shoved it back up inside the tube 2'' further up drilled 2 holes there to flow brazing brass into
gold valve and seat for to plant,turned to fit to damper rod piston kinda of a before and after and the shortening and ventilation of damper rod to shorten the damper i simply cut off the threaded end and shoved it back up inside the tube 2'' further up drilled 2 holes there to flow brazing brass into
Attachments
as far as holding the damper rod ive never had to use a holder 'cept when threadlocker was used or a decade of rust set inteazer said:
i never have liked the idea of spacing the damper rod ,see,i feel that having as much room,long as spring as possible ,then a better chance of finding a spring set amongst my mongrels,see
and it raise the rebound damping ports ,not that i understand enough about the actual fluid paths to make a call like that
and the 2'' is raising the piston in the fork oil level ,closer to the top
the gold valve relies on precise metering and raising the valve up gets it closer to sucking air
it could gurgle :-\,see
is that what yer saying ?!?! you think i want a gurgler ? in the the front ? the wheelbait ? good lord a gurgler anywhere is a bright fail ,get yer wits brother
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Is bare 7075 going to be hard enough to stop wear on disc buttons? Few years ago MikesXS had some major issues with brake rotors wearing out soft steel buttons, 7075 has a pretty 'soft' surface until it gets hard anodised. (maybe your doing that, I don't think I've read every single word :-[ )
Pretty sure I understand why you shortened damper rod, makes sense to have Gold Valve well under the oil level. Are you making a new hydraulic lock stop for for bottom? I see that the outer diameter of rod is now too big to use original lock stop
Pretty sure I understand why you shortened damper rod, makes sense to have Gold Valve well under the oil level. Are you making a new hydraulic lock stop for for bottom? I see that the outer diameter of rod is now too big to use original lock stop
heycrazypj said:
as far as the wear on the buttons all i kkow is the aluminum buttons i have seen are worn pretty good and i guess ill see what happens i had some others for this rotor made up so that the load part is a short piece of tubing replaceable that way but i just decided to try this i savede those for future use sounds like i may need 'em !
i think it may be to my advantage that the buttons aren't exactly half circle contact with a sharp edge contacting because i had to elongate the rotor half circles into a slt albeit only a mm or 2 cant remember
it was becasuse the suzuki's bolt circle was a larger diameterr layout that i "slotted" the rotor button beds radially
as rar as the hydraulic stop cone none of these ones i have seen are ,like shaped to fit just a straight bore in there ..i think it (the damper rod ends from oem )are just swaged down to be threaded
anyway i'm done with the forks just gotta get it all together to get the weight up for sp[ring selection ill be running some air-assist like allways
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
8)
If it works I'm going to make some for the Suzuki rotors I have which are pretty loose and rattly .
I beat on them once to tighten things up, works so far, the stock 'buttons' are pretty hard material, I think some kind of stainless steel?
I've been meaning to try anodising, after nickel plating worked pretty good it should be relatively easy as there are less chemicals involved
Even 'thin' anodising will be better than bare alloy, aluminium oxide is damn hard stuff (used to make grinding wheels, etc, melting point over 3,000F)
I took a look at lock out cone, yep, parallel bore so no problem re-fitting it
If it works I'm going to make some for the Suzuki rotors I have which are pretty loose and rattly .
I beat on them once to tighten things up, works so far, the stock 'buttons' are pretty hard material, I think some kind of stainless steel?
I've been meaning to try anodising, after nickel plating worked pretty good it should be relatively easy as there are less chemicals involved
Even 'thin' anodising will be better than bare alloy, aluminium oxide is damn hard stuff (used to make grinding wheels, etc, melting point over 3,000F)
I took a look at lock out cone, yep, parallel bore so no problem re-fitting it
