My first build - 75 Honda CL360 Scrambler

Actually the lower arm is the one that looks bent, can anyone confirm?


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That did it. I forgot to take a pic from the same angle but after straightening that out I was able to get them synced !!!


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It's almost 'normal' for one or the other arms to be twisted or bent. I haven't found a good reliable way to check them except to bolt carbs to mounting without adjuster screw and see if they are roughly parallel. You have to be real careful bending arm as the shaft is brass and can easily break at the circlip groove. I've got several broken ones here that were cracked or broke in transit. I figured out really quick you must use two pairs of pliers to hold arm so as not to put any stress on shaft. Because it's such a PITA, I try not to move them unless I absolutely have to. The arm on left carb should be bent down, maybe right is too high as spring shouldn't be fully compressed when carbs are properly adjusted
 
yeah I used a vice grip on the U shaped part and pliers to hold the arm from moving. It worked out in the end, just took time to figure out what was wrong. I'm pretty stoked that they're synced now, can't wait to get them reinstalled and see how it runs tonight.
I've asked before with no replies but is anyone on this site from Des Moines? There's a Cars & Coffee cruise this saturday, would love to meet more riders.
 
I added this to previous post but you may have been typing same time as me? The arm on left carb should be bent down, maybe right is too high as spring shouldn't be fully compressed when carbs are properly adjusted. I don't know about Des Moines but I've done a lot of carbs from Iowa ;D
 
Ok so I got the carbs back on and the new K&N R1060 pods which are all one piece of rubber basically so there's no flange getting in the way like with Emgo pods. It sounds pretty rough but at least its not idling at 3000 RPMs. Could someone listen to it and let me know if I need to be doing more carb adjustment or does this sound like an electrical misfire or timing?
It ran really strong on Sunday when i put the 6 Sigma kit in it but the idle was super high. Then something plugged one of the jets so I took it apart, cleaned them out, bent the sync adjuster arm so that it's straight and got the butterflies synced almost perfect IMO. Put the carbs back on and it sounds like this:
https://youtu.be/mZbN6jqo5hU
 
I noticed that you put a washer on either side of the spring. I believe they belong on either side of the lower arm. You probably don't want to remove them again (it is a fine thread that can easily cross or strip), but shoul you remove it, that is the way it goes. I believe that is why the examples he showed had the washers belled. They are a bear to work on either side of that lower fork.
 
I'm real surprised you got it to idle that low with that exhuast, it needs extending 18" or more. Washers need fitting either side of fork as mentioned. You probably want around a 1300rpm idle to make sure it doesn't cut out when rpm drops from full throttle, it may seem OK in garage buyt when riding there are different dynamics.
 
Yeah the washers were a mistake, I can fix that next time I take the carbs off. PJ, I know you're an advocate for longer exhaust. I did order some mufflers.
It was running really good on Sunday except for the high idle. The only thing I changed was syncing the carbs and put on better pods. I'm just trying to figure out where to start troubleshooting based on its current performance.


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This helped me to better understand exhaust length.

https://youtu.be/jjPeP_Nn2B4
 
so my right idle jet was clogged a little bit. when I drained the right float bowl there were a bunch of little particles that came out with it, most likely rust. that Red Kote product I put in the tank is pretty much all gone and the fuel is tinted slightly red. a friend just told me to not use ethanol gasoline which I've always used trying to support our Iowa farmers but I'll stop using it for my bike at least. then this winter I'll strip the tank again and do a better job by not using Red Kote. I reinstalled the fuel filters that common motor told me I didn't need because there's a filter in the petcock. obviously not a very good filter.
 
Definitely keep far from ethanol gasoline in any carburated engine! Supporting Brazilion sugar farmers doesn't help engines run well. Always run a clear paper element filter between petcock and carbs in older bikes. If you re-coat the tank, please avoid Kreem. It is soluble in acetone, which makes it easy to remove but makes it susceptible to fuel additives. Many like POR-15, which I have no experience with but love their engine paint. Actually, get the tank clean and keep it filled with non-alcohol gas and you should be good.
 
Thanks, I just read a bunch of reviews on Caswell which are very positive. So the bike is running good, it still had little backfires when decelerating and it's not charging. Seems like I'll never be done


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djsmiles said:
it still had little backfires when decelerating and it's not charging. Seems like I'll never be done

Backfires on engine braking deceleration are completely fine and normal for any decently tuned carbureted engine. Its the lean condition cause by closing the butterfly.

As long as it recovers idle quickly without dying when you do pull the clutch and stop.

If you pull the clutch and close throttle completely - using brakes or just coasting to decelerate. It wont pop on decel because the engine drops to idle quickly as it isn't force pulling much air through the carbs.
 
djsmiles said:
So the bike is running good, it still had little backfires when decelerating and it's not charging. Seems like I'll never be done
It's probably sucking air back because of exhaust 'length'
 
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