XS750 to XS896 big bore

I realize the shocks will need to be tested out... they may not work well and need replacing eventually but for now they were an unbeatable price of free!! ;)

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Totally agree that they are well worth trying. At least they allow you to set things with that length of shock. The should be good quality, being OEM fitment. Are they rebuildable? You might be able to change springs and oil.
Cheers
Tim

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Oil cooler sandwich plate weekend. It took a few hours of turning dials but I did get most of the sandwich plate done. All I need is the M18 fine taps to arrive to finish it off. After playing around with the design I did manage to get it down to 27mm. Pretty happy with the result.
 

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The 896 doner bike had been used for Speedway sidecar racing!!! So it needed some serious detabbing!!
With the general frame cleanup I fitted the rear hoop. One bit of an issue though. I did not realise when I bought the hoop that it was 304 stainless, WTF!!! No idea why you would want it out of stainless. Anyway the University of Youtube had the solution, and apparently you can tig weld 304 to mild steal by using a 309 filler rod. I also started on the mounting brackets for the oil cooler.
The shed is getting a bit tight with the frame for the 896 as well as the running 750!! I need to wheel the 750 out to work now.
Cheers
Tim
 

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It was a bit late, but I did a rego check today using the VIN number.
Turns out the bike has never been road registered. The original owner must have bought it specifically to do his speedway racing, and then it has sat in a shed for 35 years. Does not look like he did much racing either given the hone marks are in the original 750 cylinders.
The bottom line is that it has a clear record, the ADR plate for Australian compliance, so no problems to get road rego.
Cheers
Tim
 
Unboxed a new toy today. I want to roll my guards out of aluminium so I bought a cheap English Wheel. And there is no doubt that you get wheat you pay for. The carriage which holds the anvil wheel is too wide, so the anvil will fall out! The main wheel does not have a "micro polish", it has been ground, but by what looks like 20 grit.
Nothing a couple of hours in the shed will not fix though.
 

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Damn, that was rough even for china! ;)
I had great use of the sheet crimper as well when i did my front guard.
 
Hi Dave
Had a look at your build, your tank and front fender came out beautifully using the wheel, hammer and crimper. Obviously the English wheel you used was much higher quality than my Chinese masterpiece. Now when you say crimper what exactly are you referring too? Couple of photos of what I think you may be referring too, but if you could confirm that would be great. Did you have to anneal the bronze with all that forming work?
Spent an hour tonight, with 600 grit paper and the wheel being rotated at 800rpm in my mill, the wheel is much smoother, pity about the 10 thou run-out. Might have to have a play with the tool & cutter grinder to see if I can true it up. Despite all the problems with the Chinese Wheel I did have a go on a bit of 1.4mm Ally and it took about 40 minutes to get the curve about right for a front fender. The edges are the issue, so I am going to have to get the shrinker/crimper.
 

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Loving watching you give it a crack man. I have always wanted to have a similar set up in my workshop and I'm sure many others do too. Nice to follow along someone who is actually doing it :D Good luck!
 
Cool stuff man. I've been watching those same universal oil coolers for a bit. Curious to see how yours works.
 
Took my lovely into the art gallery this morning for an exhibition of quilting - maxed out on time credits.
That meant shed time this afternoon and Gentlemen's ride tomorrow ;)
First was to true up the Chinese Wheel and make it a true English Wheel. The video is how I did it between centres on the tool and cutter grinder, running on the wheels bearings. It was 7 thou out to start with, and perfectly true after. Started with a course stone, the video shows the final cut with a 600 grit stone, then I span it in the mill and finished it with 800 grit wet&dry. Very happy with the result. Before due to the eccentricity the curve in my practice fender was not even, now it is. The improved surface finish now gives the fender a much better, gloss/polished finish. Shrank the sides in using a nylon hammer and wooden block. Donating it to the wife as a Tapas bowl, more credits ;D.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2l2rjsiePw
Canyon - Yep the universal oil cooler was really my only option. The biggest issue is the width of the cooler. It is going to sit just below the top of the rocker cover and above the header, per the picture. I am tempted to cut the end mounts off and pick-up on the hose fittings. Not sure at this point??
For all those riding tomorrow have a great day. It is meant to rain overnight for us and be clear by ride time tomorrow.
Cheers
Tim
 

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The crimper i used is basically the same you have in that pic, but blue! :) Yes lots of annealing, it turns into a super tough springy hardness when deformed. Hopefully a durable type of springiness that will last for eternity!
 
Dave - your spot on about the work hardening. The aluminium was basic garden variety 5005 H34 which is "half hardened" and soft to start with. I was worried is was going to be too soft and thin and easily damaged. No way, once it has been work hardened by forming with the English Wheel it is very tough, rigid and springy - bloody perfect. I did not anneal the ally.
I did use the tool and cutter grinder to true the wheel as I have it to use. You could do the same by setting it up between centres in a lathe and then holding a router or die grinder in the tool post. Very important to protect the bed from the grinding grit. This cheap English Wheel was crap quality but after a bit of tweaking the capabilities have exceeded my expectations. ;D
Cheers
Tim
 
XS750AU said:
Dave - your spot on about the work hardening. The aluminium was basic garden variety 5005 H34 which is "half hardened" and soft to start with. I was worried is was going to be too soft and thin and easily damaged. No way, once it has been work hardened by forming with the English Wheel it is very tough, rigid and springy - bloody perfect. I did not anneal the ally.
I did use the tool and cutter grinder to true the wheel as I have it to use. You could do the same by setting it up between centres in a lathe and then holding a router or die grinder in the tool post. Very important to protect the bed from the grinding grit. This cheap English Wheel was crap quality but after a bit of tweaking the capabilities have exceeded my expectations. ;D
Cheers
Tim
The wheels on ours seem true enough still waiting for the garage member who moved out and left it to ask for money for it..
 
Love Ebay as you can get almost anything you need. But sometimes it does take a long time to arrive :mad:, the 16.5mm drill has taken 5 weeks to arrive - but it was cheap!! ;D
I have now tapped the oil cooler sandwich plate (M18 fine) so the hose fittings can be assembled. Not sure the colours will stay as supplied. The hoses are way too long, but they are standard hydraulic fittings so it is easy to cut the hose to length with an angle grinder and then reassemble.
 

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Hold on, did you just make that oil cooler plate yourself? :) you should seriously pat yourself on the back a few times, thats awesome work!
 
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