1982 CB750F Super Sport - (no longer a Brat Project)

NICE WORK! LOVE THE BIKE

hillsy said:

What are the plug caps off? Is that a CBR coil conversion?

Click to expand...

I'd guess F2 coils.

J-Rod10 said:

I'd guess F2 coils.

Click to expand...

Here is another pic that might help identify them. I haven't really taken a close look or try to figure it out yet myself.

ben

Yep. Good swap setup.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/156-91-94-Honda-CBR600-F2-Ignition-Coils-Wires-Packs-Honda-CBR600-F2-Coils-/331731410848?hash=item4d3cbb9fa0:g:eFgAAOSwxN5WbKKm&vxp=mtr

So the next thing I want to tackle is the brakes. They aren't performing very well at the moment. The front master cylinder is very new and so are the brake lines themselves, but they are the rubber type. The brake pads are not wearing evenly, the rear pads are in bad need to of being replaced. The rotors could use some restoration as well, but I don't think they are too far gone to have them grinded and even drilled by True Disk. But, I'm not really not sure if investing in the existing rotors would prove to be worthwhile or just be more of a temporary fix.

I figure the cost will be about $135 to grind the rotors and $105 to drill them. Drill could be avoided, but I like the look and feel it could help with the longevity and performance of the pads.

The other option is the go with another choice of rotors. As far as I can tell from researching, the list of rotors below should all fit. However, it would require welding the existing mounting holes shut, and having new mounting holes drilled for the correct number and pattern. I'd have to outsource this to a machine shop, but may be able to get someone I know to do this for little or no cost. The offset on these, I'm told, is also a bit different and I'd have a use a spacer between my caliper mounts and forks to correct this. Additionally, I'd need to purchase a set of CBX Pro Link caliper mounts to extend the calipers for the added radius of the new rotors. This should prove to be a big improvement, but it would really only make sense if I can source the parts for good prices. Of course, this would only solve the front end, not the rear.

1998 Honda CBR600F F3 Front
1997 Honda CBR600F F3 Front
1996 Honda CBR600F F3 Front
1995 Honda CBR600F F3 Front
1997 Honda CBR900RR Front
1996 Honda CBR900RR Front
1995 Honda CBR900RR Front
1997 Honda VFR750F Interceptor Front
1996 Honda VFR750F Interceptor Front
1995 Honda VFR750F Interceptor Front
1994 Honda VFR750F Interceptor Front
2005 Honda VTR1000 Super Hawk Front
2004 Honda VTR1000 Super Hawk Front
2003 Honda VTR1000 Super Hawk Front
2002 Honda VTR1000 Super Hawk Front
2001 Honda VTR1000 Super Hawk Front
2000 Honda VTR1000 Super Hawk Front
1999 Honda VTR1000 Super Hawk Front
1998 Honda VTR1000 Super Hawk Front

I know I can get the CBX caliper mounts for about $25 each. I figure I can get the rotors for about $50-$60 a set either from eBay or from a local salvage yard. I'm not sure yet what machining costs would add up to.

To add to all of this, I ordered a new front wheel from eBay to replace the 19"x 2.2" stock rim. The new rim is from a GL1100 Goldwing, and is 18" x 2.5". This should pair nicely with the 18" rear wheel, and it seems to be a fairly popular mod for people who want to keep the stock comstars. In case anyone is looking and could benefit from it, I'm told the GL1100 forks have thicker mounting points for the calipers and therefore would not require spaces for the offset. So, I may be able to get a set from the local salvage yard as a option if necessary, but I doubt I'll do that.

And ultimately, I'd like to change out the front brake lines at a minimum for braided units, just two lines bolted straight to the master cylinder and calipers.

This will likely not happen quickly. I'm still hunting for parts and want to scout the salvage yard before I buy from eBay to maybe get a good deal and not have to pay for shipping.

ben

I should have added that I need to tear down the brake calipers and verify they aren't gummed up behind the piston seals. I have a feeling they are, because they aren't retracting as they should and holding onto the rotors pretty good at the moment in the relaxed position.

So new seal kits are probably also on the menu for the calipers.

ben

I'm liking the thought pattern


Nothing wrong with UPGRADING responsibly and tastefully

Have fun over here:


http://metalgear.com.au/search_by_disc_measurements.php


If you use 6 hole carriers instead of 5 you just have to drill new holes (except for one). You don't need to weld the old holes shut (it would probably warp the carrier anyway). It's not rocket science - you can do it at home.


Measure twice, drill once.....

hillsy said:

Have fun over here:


http://metalgear.com.au/search_by_disc_measurements.php


If you use 6 hole carriers instead of 5 you just have to drill new holes (except for one). You don't need to weld the old holes shut (it would probably warp the carrier anyway). It's not rocket science - you can do it at home.


Measure twice, drill once.....

Click to expand...

Even still, I'm not sure I'd attempt this myself. My drill press isn't the highest quality, and I'm afraid it isn't very reliable for precision work. I cheaped out when I bought it. And it is the brakes after all. If I got anything out of alignment it might not mean disaster, but surely wouldn't be good.

I'd expect a good machinist to be able to do this in their sleep though.

ben

The inside diameter of the carrier lines up the disc on the hub - the bolts pretty much just stop the disc from spinning.


In other words you cant make the disc out of alignment by drilling the mounting holes slightly off (as long as the inside diameter of the carrier matches the hub).

hillsy said:

The inside diameter of the carrier lines up the disc on the hub - the bolts pretty much just stop the disc from spinning.


In other words you cant make the disc out of alignment by drilling the mounting holes slightly off (as long as the inside diameter of the carrier matches the hub).

Click to expand...

Gotcha.

Thanks for the link. That is really helping me verify some figures.

ben

Inside diameter of the stock front rotors and the other Honda models I listed is 58mm. So that part is confirmed good.

The offset of the stock front rotor is 26mm, and offset of the CBR600F3 front rotors is 17mm -- just to show the difference. So about a 10mm spacer will be needed (yes, actually 9mm).

Bolt hole circumference on the stock is 78mm, and on the F3 is 74mm. That would mean to me that drill all new holes will be necessary.

ben

You might want to check what clearance you have now between the calipers and the wheel spokes - bringing the calipers in by 10mm each might foul the spokes.


You might be better off getting some spacers made up to bring the discs out, rather than pulling the calipers in.

Newly developed oil leak as seen in attached pic. I think it is from that one head stud nut that was loose. Looks like the thread lock didn't hold or the copper washer isn't sealing. Picked up a new/used cap nut from the local salvage yard along with a washer from a poor engine left out in the cold among all of the scrap.

I'm going to anneal the copper washer and try to get proper torque spec with the new/used cap nut tonight.

ben

Pulled the valve cover last night to test my theory on the oil leak. The left rear head stud had two copper washers on it, one stock, the other thinner and smaller diameter. It also had some gasket sealer on it. If you recall, I once found this one finger loose, and couldn't confidently get it to torque properly to spec.

I removed the cap nut and immediately could see that the stud was protruding too much -- I guess this is why there was two washers. I removed the nut on the opposing front side for comparison to validate my findings. It also had gasket sealer on it, which leads me to believe someone has already tried to solve the oil leak problem once before.

Luckily I had picked up two nuts and washers from the salvage yard. I annealed all three copper washers, cleaned off the gasket sealer residue. I put two washers on the taller stud (didn't see any other option). I was able to get both to torque to 26 foot pound spec without issue. I then buttoned everything back up and took it for a test ride to run the motor through its paces.

This morning there was no oil under the bike. Drove it to work and so far no oil under the bike. Hopefully this was the fix.

ben

Got my superbike bars and mounted them up. I really like the position and how it transforms the bike.

Disregard the missing mirror. I ordered the wrong ones, and waiting for a replacement that isn't reverse threaded on the right side.

ben

Won a front wheel off eBay. It is from an early 80's GL1100. It is 18" x 2.5" to replace the stock 19" x 2.15". Should give me better tire choices, reduce rolling weight a tad, and handle better.

ben

The stud looks loaded up. might clean the threads and get a new nut and some fresh washers.

The bars are a HUGE improvement. Nice!

Pics were before I cleaned up the studs.

ben

Excellent choice on the bars. Would be nice to see a profile pic now.