Help with fairing mounting

Looking for help mounting a full fairing. Looking for some pics of how others have done it. I haven't found anything good that doesn't require crazy custom parts.

This will be going on an RD

Bottom line is you'll need some bar stock and a welder to fab up some solid mounts. Only so many ways to skin this cat. Headlight mounts to the steering stem typically with arms out to the fairing up there, and then arms from the frame or engine mounts down below to the lower tabs of the fairing.

AirTech has a fairing mount for the RZ/RD350 which might be a good starting point to replicate.

http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/yamaz/RZ3501984-86.htm

Thanks Tim, I had seen the other one that airtech sells but wasn't sure if there was something better. One of those don't look too bad.

If the frame is already stripped, I'd copy the TD3-TZ short front tube mount welded to the steering stem and add two simple brackets to the downtubes to take a TZ type cross brace.

The hardest one to fabricate is the thin screen cross mount. If you could come up with something more like an RS125/250 top mount, that would be good.

Come off the neck at the front.

Couple off engine bolts, couple off engine mount bolts.

It can be done with a $10 piece of flat stock, a hammer, somewhere to bend said flat stock, and a crescent/vice to do a little twisting on. Minor welding required.

Mounted to the triples AND the engine mounts? That's a mighty flexible fairing! ;D ;D

Race fairings are a bit of a pain on a street bike. I have done several (sorry - no pics), and it is worth some effort. It is tempting to make it less "quick release" than as done on racers, but it is a MAJOR drag to have to spend a bunch of time getting it off to work on the bike - and you will at least have lights to add to the trouble. I always really liked having the instruments mounted to the frame instead of the steering, but adds to the fabrication. Remember, the fairing may be super light, but it gets rather a lot of wind pressure, and it is going on a street bike. It will need to be more rugged than what you see on a race bike - not because it will be more highly stressed, but because it will be asked to be stressed for a lot longer.

Generally, you need the front strut with a telescoping portion so you can just reach in and pull a pin to free the two halves. You can get a u-bolt around the steering neck of your RD, but you will be far better off welding a mount to it. It needs to be high (and strong) if you mount your instruments and/or upper supports for the bits that come over the bars. Remember, you will also have your (fairly) heavy headlight to support. Another mount down by the lower engine mounts, and another set of struts abreast of the carbs to keep the sides from flapping.

jpmobius said:

Mounted to the triples AND the engine mounts? That's a mighty flexible fairing! ;D ;D

Race fairings are a bit of a pain on a street bike. I have done several (sorry - no pics), and it is worth some effort. It is tempting to make it less "quick release" than as done on racers, but it is a MAJOR drag to have to spend a bunch of time getting it off to work on the bike - and you will at least have lights to add to the trouble. I always really liked having the instruments mounted to the frame instead of the steering, but adds to the fabrication. Remember, the fairing may be super light, but it gets rather a lot of wind pressure, and it is going on a street bike. It will need to be more rugged than what you see on a race bike - not because it will be more highly stressed, but because it will be asked to be stressed for a lot longer.

Generally, you need the front strut with a telescoping portion so you can just reach in and pull a pin to free the two halves. You can get a u-bolt around the steering neck of your RD, but you will be far better off welding a mount to it. It needs to be high (and strong) if you mount your instruments and/or upper supports for the bits that come over the bars. Remember, you will also have your (fairly) heavy headlight to support. Another mount down by the lower engine mounts, and another set of struts abreast of the carbs to keep the sides from flapping.

Click to expand...

My current plan is to build something like the pic I put above, but as you mentioned weld it to the neck instead of using the ubolt. I will be running a single gauge, but I plan to attach it to the bracket not on the tree to get it more like the TD. Here is what I am thinking, let me know if you think this is a good plan.

Screen brace

You can here see what Im kinda thinking of here. The Blue part would be the bracket, similar to the one streamlining sells, welded directly to the tube. The green would be the screen brace. Welded off the sides of the U. I dont want the straight across bar, that seems like a bad idea in general.



Here is the other option for the screen brace. This seems like it would be overly complex, and maybe not a good idea. This is on one of the Dime City bikes.



For the sides, It sounds like you're saying two bars across would be best. One behind the intakes and one in front of the motor. Just a straight across bar. What would you use for fasteners to fasten the fairing to the bar? Just tap the round bar and put a screw with some rubber? Im thinking it would be similar to this, but without the fastener up high.



Was also thinking about welding some tube to the frame, and give the bar some legs to sit in it. That way it would be removable if I wanted to run without the fairing or wanted to swap it out for another. That would look like the one that Tim showed earlier

I still havent decided which fairing to use yet. I have this old DT2? fairing, if I cant get it to fit, I would use a really small spotlight type light. Its not going to be a daily bike so just something to keep me mostly legal.



If that fails, I have this as a backup which takes a full 7" headlight

AJSM7

i have done a steerer stem mount fairing lashup like that using a quick disconnect coupler for hydraulics worked slick and the balls in the coupler afford pretty darn smooth movement

That TD2 faring needs to be lifted at the front and used with clipons.

If your fairing of choice is closed under the motor, all it needs are front center to where the headlamp normally sits plus screen support like the one shown plus a main mount behind the motor.

TZ front mount



Stock TD/TZ rear mount


Shortened for pod filters


If the bottom is open, the sides will flap like a politicians gums without an additional mount to the lower front.

Use 1/4 turn fasteners - Dzus or others work well - screw type not D ring for a neater look or D ring for the technical trick look.

Simple flat steel or aluminum from a lower engine mount is fine for the front mounts.

Mount the instrument/s to the front mount and clean up the top triple clamp. That way the gauges will not hit anything and everything as the bars are turned.

teazer said:

That TD2 faring needs to be lifted at the front and used with clipons.

If your fairing of choice is closed under the motor, all it needs are front center to where the headlamp normally sits plus screen support like the one shown plus a main mount behind the motor.

TZ front mount

If the bottom is open, the sides will flap like a politicians gums without an additional mount to the lower front.

Use 1/4 turn fasteners - Dzus or others work well - screw type not D ring for a neater look or D ring for the technical trick look.

Simple flat steel or aluminum from a lower engine mount is fine for the front mounts.

Mount the instrument/s to the front mount and clean up the top triple clamp. That way the gauges will not hit anything and everything as the bars are turned.

Click to expand...

As usual, thanks for all the help TZ. That pic with the TD fairing is super old and it was just sitting there, not in the correct position. Here is where the bike is now, clip ons etc,


Clip-ons arnt in the correct position there. The real question with the TD fairing is if I can trim it to fit around the chambers without losing all its integrity. Havent spent much time yet messing with that.

I like the idea of the tube front vs bar stock, just need to see what I can get my hands on. Looks like most of what is on the TZ is similar to my design so im headed in the right direction.

That's a good point about the pipes. TD and early TZ pipes were tucked in really tight against the frame allowing the fairing to be high and tight.

Fitting more modern pipes to a TZ means we need to fit a different fairing or cut the belly pan off and lower it. A TZ 250H-J-K fairing is "deeper" and fits round most pipes. It's always a juggling act to get a fairing into place on a bike it wasn't designed for.

The alternative may be to use a top half fairing and leave the pipes and motor exposed.

You might have enough room without the bellypan, but I have a mould to make a deeper bellypan for the TD's / TR's / early TZ's that guys run Swarbrick chambers on and that might give you enough room for your chambers...
Pat

Here are the mounts for the fairing I have;
A main bracket that holds the headlight, and the front of the fairing.
It attaches to the steering stem.
Two side brackets hold the rear at each side.
I've used rubber washers, nuts and bolts at the sides.

Had the same problem with mine just in process of finishing off the mounts check my thread out Hailwood Honda race rep agh! used bits of aluminium tubing n 3mm plate and some p clips top end still proving a bit tricky due to me been crap at welding aluminium hope the odd pic helps mate

Wouldn't recommend this for the street but it has served us for the Ohio Mile.

a woody that is excellent !!