Triton

Weslake engine is slightly wider on the right hand side, so the fairing needed a couple of reliefs for clearance.
 

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Wooden former was then used to form an alloy scoop for the top bulge. I will rivet this on and paint it with the fairing
 

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The lower relief wouldnt look right done like this, in my mind anyway so I made a mould to match the shape of bulge needed and glassed a new section into the fairing. Cant really see the joint and definitely wont see the modification when I paint it.

Taking me longer to upload this lot on here, but theres more if anyone is interested. Ill get it up to date in a couple more days. Mark
 

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That brake pedal is a thing of beauty. Love the rear fender. Nicely done!
 
Exhaust was a good experience to have a go at.
 

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Alloy heat shield was simple to make and looks neat polished up. Reverse cone for the removable slip on can took a bit more messing with, but the former I made gave an accurate cone for welding on.
 

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I always fancied a 4LS front brake and came across a supplier for Ceriani 230mm replica`s. Nice brake but I wanted a polished finish so spent ages sanding away the as cast surface before I could buff them up. Also these brakes are wider, so I had to change my Fork Yokes to make the room. Minnovation Racing make a real nice set, which are a bit different to the norm.

New front hub is also 36 spoke, so I couldnt re-use my old front rim which was for a 40 spoke hub. Morad Valanced rim was built onto the new front hub and I picked a wider matching rim for my back wheel.
 

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Side stand is added to the rear brake torque arm as I didnt want to weld one onto my frame. That fairing stops me from putting one in the conventional place anyway, so this is the solution I came up with. I can unbolt this and fit just a plain torque arm if I dont need the stand for any reason.

Final pic is from today, so its still work in progress
 

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Thanks for the comments. I started it thinking I would just re-frame and then tidy it up, but got carried away :D
 
Dry build is now complete. Everything fits and works as it should so I can take it apart for powder coating, plating and final assembly.
 

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Carried away perhaps, but clearly well worth the effort. Incredible piece of work. Love the alloy scoop on the fairing.
 
Spectacular. I'm a big fan of many things here, but that exhaust is nice.
 
Got an alloy tank from TAB, The quality is pretty good and they made it in about 5 peeks, which isn't a bad turnaround really.

Painted it in my Workshop at home inside a make-shift polythene tent. Hosed the floor down with water and there was no dirt in the paint at all. Used basecoats and 2k lacquer, so it won't lift from fuel spills.

Broke my leg at Easter, so progress got delayed a while. Still managed Stafford show, but it was a killer getting around on crutches!
 

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I started a build thread in the Projects section, but I'd like to keep this updated if that's ok.

I've painted more than a few sets of race bike fairings in the past and always just coated the inside with satin black, which was fine as thats generally good enough but I wanted a nicer finish on this. I bought this carbon fibre fairing from Molnar and it's really nice quality, but the weave on the inside could be improved. Laying 30 gram tissue on the inside with polyurethene resin took some time to flat back smooth, but the result is as good a finish on the inside as out. Just 2k primed the top fairing section and it's come out better than I hoped.
 

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On the right hand side of my fairing, I had to make a couple of bulges for the Weslake engine. I looked at an Avon type which wouldn't need these, but I'd already bought this as my bike was going to retain its Triumph engine at that time. I prefer the shape of this fairing too, so it was worth the messing.

A while back, I made an aluminium scoop for the top one to be rivetted on, but I thought stuff it and used it as a mould to glass one in instead. Didn't take long at all to do this at all and it won't dent easy like the alloy one would.
 

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Top section is still in primer, but I wanted to get the other scoop or bulge glassed in before I lay tissue and resin inside the bottom piece.

You can see the difference on this picture, but what I wanted was the inside of the carbon fibre fairing looking like a modern bike with as good a finish on either side. It does actually look and feel like plastic on the top section and it's not much heavier at all.

It shouldn't crack because of the tissue, so I hope it to be fairly resilient.
 

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Managed to get Sunday afternoon in the shed and finished laying up the inside of the bottom part of the fairing. It takes 'time consuming' to a completely different level when doing this, but the result when finished is great.

Just wiped it over with acetone, then coated it with resin and some 30 gram tissue. Not much finesse needed to do it, but once fully cured, I'll block it back with 180 grit paper and then 320 it smooth. There's no air bubbles in this coating, so it sands back lovely. It's just a slow job.

Its hardly put any additional weight on the upper fairing section I did a little while ago and the difference is amazing. Won't ever do it again, but glad I did it this time. Aiming for primer this coming weekend.
 

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