CB500K rearset idea

jvandyke

Been Around the Block
first build, just planning stage (mostly) don't really want to hack off the passenger peg mount ears, using those would seem to put the rear sets way too high and back, so maybe a frame clamp as shown, with a plate between the two would allow you put them where you want them, make the plate as you wish. Better ideas welcomed. Kinda like the Tarozzi set up I guess, but I think I'd go for just enough difference to allow my kick starter to work,
rearsetidea_zpsb8ac9558.jpg
 
That'll work......though would probably look a little neater if you could weld a tab on rather than the clamp in my opinion.
 
did some more mock up (removed all stock pegs and rear brake lever), now I'm thinking a bar from stock rider peg mount to passenger mount with would work better, I think I'll want them lower, almost stock low but a good 7" back, I have no exhaust to worry about (shorties) so might end up like that, stock height but quite a bit farther back, Looks like if I should just be able to keep the right side out of the way of the kickstart
 
i think it is a very smart plan,you have the option of playing around with peg location
if you find you done like it change it again
i think if you make the bracket out of some 3/8" aluminum flatbar leave it a bit oversize in case you want change
once you are happy you can carve it down add speedholes etc
 
xb33bsa said:
i think it is a very smart plan,you have the option of playing around with peg location
if you find you done like it change it again
i think if you make the bracket out of some 3/8" aluminum flatbar leave it a bit oversize in case you want change
once you are happy you can carve it down add speedholes etc
That's what I was thinking.
rearsetbracket2_zps895d8d49.jpg

rearsetbracketright_zpsed09f795.jpg


maybe just keep it straight for the prototype, much easier to make a straight one from flat stock I guess, go from there, obstacles on the brake side though, the original brake lever pivot tube, the lever stop bracket, all that stuff is in the way of a bar, of course none of it is needed if my build works, should probably just commit and start hacking it all off, I started this thinking I could leave it reversible, I don't think you can really do that.....
 
These?
http://cognitomoto.com/products/cb550k-cb750k-rearset-brackets
Saw those, like 'em but my exhaust would be in the way and they leave the passenger mount unused, have to ditch the kickstarter. I like the idea of using existing attachment points and leaving the frame as unmolested as possible

I might try to use the empty hole where the brake lever pivot was, maybe a spacer inside to reduce ID, bolt bracket on there, that way I'm using that hole for something and I don't have to cut a bunch of stuff off (brake pedal stop) or notch the bracket to avoid these things. I'm really trying to avoid massacring the frame too much, I figure if I cut off the rear of the frame, just behind the shock mounts, that I could weld back on if I ever really wanted to and go back to stock quite easily.
 
jvandyke said:
These?
http://cognitomoto.com/products/cb550k-cb750k-rearset-brackets
Saw those, like 'em but my exhaust would be in the way and they leave the passenger mount unused, have to ditch the kickstarter. I like the idea of using existing attachment points and leaving the frame as unmolested as possible

I might try to use the empty hole where the brake lever pivot was, maybe a spacer inside to reduce ID, bolt bracket on there, that way I'm using that hole for something and I don't have to cut a bunch of stuff off (brake pedal stop) or notch the bracket to avoid these things. I'm really trying to avoid massacring the frame too much, I figure if I cut off the rear of the frame, just behind the shock mounts, that I could weld back on if I ever really wanted to and go back to stock quite easily.
you need to keep the stock brake pivot actuator,running a brake rod from a rearset to the rear wheel directly wont work well AT ALL
you have the right idea with what your showing however a long curved piece like that won't do it will be too weak,bendy
needs to be strong enough to stand on
that cognito moto lashup is all wrong, the brake pedal moves every time you hit a bump
 
xb33bsa said:
you need to keep the stock brake pivot actuator,running a brake rod from a rearset to the rear wheel directly wont work well AT ALL
really? Why is that? it seems the stock rod might just need a slight Z bend to be outboard a tad to reach rear set horn, is it that bend that worries us? introducing slop into the mix?i potential weak link, so to speak?

agreed on the straight vs. curved bracket,
 
Psychobilly Boogieman said:
Nice start. I have a 72 500k that I'm doing also

Got plans yet?

I pulled the front fender today. Looks pretty silly. I wanted to see how it would fit on the rear as hugger, it looks fantastic. I'm going to have to source a half way decent front fender (currently planing on keeping the front and adding another front on the rear). If you're front fender is decent and you don't think you need it let me know.
 
jvandyke said:
really? Why is that? it seems the stock rod might just need a slight Z bend to be outboard a tad to reach rear set horn, is it that bend that worries us? introducing slop into the mix?i potential weak link, so to speak?

agreed on the straight vs. curved bracket,

because when the actuation point of the rod is in too far a proximity from the swinger pivot then in simple terms gives you bump brake effect
as the suspension moves so does the brake pedal
you cannot have an upstop on the pedal,you cannot adjust the pedal for minimal travel like stock like it should be
lots if people hook them up like that but it is just because they are ignorant or lazy
 
These are the ones that I modified. You have to drill out the holes a bit and make a spacer to offset the pedal about 20mm but they let you keep all the stock linksage:

http://cognitomoto.com/collections/rearsets/products/cb550k-cb750k-rearset-brackets-keep-linkage
 
xb33bsa said:
because when the actuation point of the rod is in too far a proximity from the swinger pivot then in simple terms gives you bump brake effect
as the suspension moves so does the brake pedal
you cannot have an upstop on the pedal,you cannot adjust the pedal for minimal travel like stock like it should be
lots if people hook them up like that but it is just because they are ignorant or lazy
That makes sense, thanks for pointing that out.
 
wowbagger said:
These are the ones that I modified. You have to drill out the holes a bit and make a spacer to offset the pedal about 20mm but they let you keep all the stock linksage:

http://cognitomoto.com/collections/rearsets/products/cb550k-cb750k-rearset-brackets-keep-linkage
Saw that but right on top of my exhaust by the look of them.
 
well, now leaning back toward bracket and frame clamp, aka plan A. Too much hassle to rig plan B, especially if I should keep the stock brake lever, which I think is good advice, with the right lever on there you could maintain the brake light switch and the stop adjuster too, although I'd love to get that stupid switch inside the frame where it belongs
brakebracketmeasure_zpsxomkzbeo.jpg
 
here's the plates I ended up with, made from 1/2" aluminum and crudely shaped with band saws and hand tools, don't laugh.
mounted plates and pegs, looked pretty good, removed to shave down the corner since clearance with the swing arm was a bother, I ended up with an half inch thick collar as a spacer on the outside of the plate to offset the pegs outboard but might step that up a bit more yet.
rearsetplate_zpsad2ntkbb.jpg


The one I'm holding is the left side, as would be mounted, front to the left. plate sits behind the passenger mount ear and the front frame clamp seems happiest inboard of the plate, the steps in the corners are necessary to allow the nuts to sit outboard enough to not foul on swing arm. Ended up pretty close to the mock up picture in previous post although I moved the pegs back a bit, kickstarted clears the peg although I went with folding pegs so that will help too. Once bolted up they are VERY solid and should serve well, bit worried about the "step" recesses being the weak link, if the plates are going to crack from stress, it'll be there I would think. Not much of a metal fabricator (obviously).
rearsetbrakemockup_zpsetyemtdh.png
 
Yup +1 on what Titan says, your right the rear peg mounts would be a little too drastic unless ya the size of a small jockey reckon my mounts are about at the limit of comfort :-\
 
Bolted up, seems good, seats not done so hard to tell if they are in a good spot or not, will forge ahead. If I had to start over again (and I might have to) I'd wait to drill the hole for the pegs, the brackets are somewhat out of plumb due to how they mount so the pegs are angled slightly up and in, not a big deal I don't think but next time.
 
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