A couple of questions for you guys

Cafe_to_go

Coast to Coast
Hopefully, someone can answer of a couple of these questions I have relating to a CB350.

1. I am going to be replacing the tree & forks from a CB360, I would like to lower it front and back, which type of shocks should I use?

2. I would like to move the battery, similar like ProTeal's bike, I found a battery half the size of the currenty battery, it is for ATV's and Jetski, it's a 12V. Would this battery work?

3. I ordered an headlight case that uses a H4 bulb, do I have to rewire to be able to use a H4 bulb?

4. I ordered some shorty megaphones, I believe these have a baffle that can be removed, would I have to adjust the carbs?

Thanks
 
Cafe_to_go said:
Hopefully, someone can answer of a couple of these questions I have relating to a CB350.

1. I am going to be replacing the tree & forks from a CB360, I would like to lower it front and back, which type of shocks should I use?

2. I would like to move the battery, similar like ProTeal's bike, I found a battery half the size of the currenty battery, it is for ATV's and Jetski, it's a 12V. Would this battery work?

3. I ordered an headlight case that uses a H4 bulb, do I have to rewire to be able to use a H4 bulb?

4. I ordered some shorty megaphones, I believe these have a baffle that can be removed, would I have to adjust the carbs?

Thanks

Answers:

1. Hopefully the 360 top yoke doesn't have the fork stops and you can just push the tubes up to lower the front. MDI has a pair of chrome 11" shocks with the eye to clevis Honda mounts. But I find they're not really that great and don't work as well as stock ones. Or you can keep the original shocks and find a pair of old Honda lowering blocks off Ebay but you may have to trim off the rear chainguard mount for this to work.

2. Check the AMP rating on that ATV battery. I think the stock battery has around 10 AMPs. Smaller batteries may have the same voltage but fewer amps. If you keep your electric starter there may not be enough juice to crank it over.

3. The 3 connectors of the original sealed beam bulb works the same way as the H4 bulb, high, low and ground. You'll just have to figure out which wire is which and connect it to the correct harness wire. You may need to do some soldering.

4. If you keep the baffles in (recommended) you may get away without rejetting. But you may have to adjust the idle mixture.
 
I found lowering blocks on ebay and posted it in the "found" section of the forum
 
Thanks guys, very helpful information. I just have the worst luck, my battery is shot and its only 7 months old. I just got back from getting it tested, and they cannot even tested because their testing machine gives them an error that it's too hot to test, whatever that means. I need to stop by tomorrow morning to talk to the manager, since they only give 6 months warranty on them. My second issue is my parts I ordered from JCWhitney, I placed the ordered on 04/23/05 and I have not received them to this day, I need to wait until next week, then they can ship me another order. Somehow its lost in transit or some BS of that nature. I should of just driven the 45 minutes to JCWhitney. JCWhitney used to be a block away from me, but moved west. They say things happen for a reason, I guess I have every reason.
 
My parts came in today, finally!!! Plus I played hooky this morning and went out to get a new battery, next week I should get my forks. Holler!!!!
 
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