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Author Topic: 1974 CB360 Engine Troubles (I think)  (Read 10465 times)

Offline millermatic187

  • Posts: 6
Re: 1974 CB360 Engine Troubles (I think)
« Reply #250 on: Nov 22, 2017, 22:26:43 »
I had a similar issue on a CB360t that is used to have. The float in the right side carb was screwed up. Like the tang was broken off for the float needle. But the right side pipe would get really hot, like it was running super lean. Youíre saying that itís cold/warm points in the direction of an ignition issue, paired with the blue/white smoke being more than likely un burnt fuel. Definitely get to the bottom of it, because that fuel will eventually wash the cylinder walls down and then bad things happen.


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Offline trek97

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Re: 1974 CB360 Engine Troubles (I think)
« Reply #251 on: Nov 22, 2017, 23:04:46 »
I had a similar issue on a CB360t that is used to have. The float in the right side carb was screwed up. Like the tang was broken off for the float needle. But the right side pipe would get really hot, like it was running super lean. Youíre saying that itís cold/warm points in the direction of an ignition issue, paired with the blue/white smoke being more than likely un burnt fuel. Definitely get to the bottom of it, because that fuel will eventually wash the cylinder walls down and then bad things happen.

If the tang was broke off float, the needle would drop down and never close.  This would cause fuel level to rise, dumping entire contents of fuel tank onto the ground through the overflow tube.
The bike would run rich, blowing black smoke (un-burnt) fuel.  The pipe would be cooler temperature.
But yes, an overly rich condition can wash cylinder walls.
« Last Edit: Nov 22, 2017, 23:06:30 by trek97 »

Offline millermatic187

  • Posts: 6
Re: 1974 CB360 Engine Troubles (I think)
« Reply #252 on: Nov 23, 2017, 11:47:20 »
If the tang was broke off float, the needle would drop down and never close.  This would cause fuel level to rise, dumping entire contents of fuel tank onto the ground through the overflow tube.
The bike would run rich, blowing black smoke (un-burnt) fuel.  The pipe would be cooler temperature.
But yes, an overly rich condition can wash cylinder walls.

If the needle dropped down.....in my case it was stuck. But anyways, his issue isnít with it running rich, itís getting it to light initially. Removing the one plug wire doesnít change anything. He said after letting it run, the right side is warm, while the left side is hot like itís supposed to be Which is more than likely heat transfer from the other cylinder. But after riding it for a few minutes it runs fine. Like a bad condenser, or a set of points that are set too wide, where you need more current to light the candle. My suggestion is to start with the simple stuff. Fresh plugs, set the valves, cam chain tension, maybe a set of spark plug boots. But if that doesnít cure it, and you have to dive in deeper (coils,points) throw that crap out and step into the 21st century with a modern ignition. 40 years is a long time for Japanese electrical components.


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Offline trek97

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Re: 1974 CB360 Engine Troubles (I think)
« Reply #253 on: Nov 23, 2017, 12:32:01 »
If the needle dropped down.....in my case it was stuck. But anyways, his issue isnít with it running rich, itís getting it to light initially. Removing the one plug wire doesnít change anything. He said after letting it run, the right side is warm, while the left side is hot like itís supposed to be Which is more than likely heat transfer from the other cylinder. But after riding it for a few minutes it runs fine. Like a bad condenser, or a set of points that are set too wide, where you need more current to light the candle. My suggestion is to start with the simple stuff. Fresh plugs, set the valves, cam chain tension, maybe a set of spark plug boots. But if that doesnít cure it, and you have to dive in deeper (coils,points) throw that crap out and step into the 21st century with a modern ignition. 40 years is a long time for Japanese electrical components.

+1 bro.  I didn't understand from your story, your experience involved a stuck needle.
Personally, I like points ignition.  In my experience,  given just a minimal amount of maintenance, they serve they're purpose quite well.
Until the issue is revealed, I feel theres no reason to recommend a guy just simply start throwing money at it.  New points are like $20, and At $300+ or -?? Solid state ignitions aint cheap for some of us.
« Last Edit: Nov 23, 2017, 12:49:25 by trek97 »