PID controller

Yeah....it comes on then goes off like it's cycling ? I will try to get a vid or some pics here in a few.
 
This is what I am seeing.
 

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Get someone that knows how to safely use a DVM and check the AC voltage between 1 and 2 on the SSR when it is energized. If you see ~110 or ~220 volts, the relay has failed. If you see no voltage (or very low), the heater is probably open. You should see ~110 or ~220 volts AC when the SSR is denergized.
 
1fasgsxr said:
So it stores and releases the energy?
No, the SSR is a switch. If it is closed it is conducting and no potential difference across it. If it is open, then you will have potential difference across it. Consider it eqivalent to a plumbing system - voltage equal to pressure, current equal to flow, switch equal to a valve, the heater equal to a turbine powered by the water flow. Come to think of it.... get someone that understands electricity to check it for you. Your understanding is too dangerously low for you to be doing this.
 
I think I figured it out. Wrong SSR... mine says 90 to 280 vac on the input side.....the PID only puts out 12 vdc
 
Hi
Not sure about going to a DC SSR. I set up a PID controller in a Gaggia Classic espresso machine. When I was running a DC SSR it would not work without a separate DC supply which was a pain. Most PID controllers have an internal mechanical relay and only switch the input voltage, which should then be used to switch the SSR. To simplify the setup I bought and AC to AC SSR and it has been running most days for the last 12 years without any problems.
I used the same circuit as you (5.2) or Figure 7 in your manual. A digital multimeter is great for fault finding!
Good luck
 
Sorry to bother you again, but from your photo of the controller you have it in manual mode (top green LED). What happens if you press button #8 and change it to run in Auto mode?
If your SSR LED is switching on and off that is a good sign. I am assuming that even though the SSR LED is on the oven element is not heating up?
Have you bypassed all the oven controls to get directly from the SSR to the oven heating element?
If the PID is switching on & off and the SSR LED is likewise turning on & off then I would think the problem is in the oven and not the PID control circuit. A quick check would to be to hook an mains portable lamp to the SSR output and see if it lights up.
Best wishes and stay safe.
 

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Here are the specs for the controller..
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
 
To me it still looks like you are in Manual mode. Are you trying to control (vary) temperature over a time period?
If you are just wanting to accurately reach and maintain a set temperature then just use the automatic factory settings and run it in auto.
Did you note that initially the manual function is disabled?????? :eek:
I also have a fridge for dry aging beef steaks which uses a PID and a AC to AC SSR. In both it and my coffee machine I just have a set temp and run them on auto - never had a problem. Both PIDs are $20 Ebay units!!!!!!!
Some feedback on the other questions would help.
 

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It's for a small powder coat oven. I just need it to maintain a certain temp per the powders specifications.
 
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