Cb360 Reassembly Help

M6 bolts are 1mm pitch. M8 are 1.25. Honda mostly used ISO standard threads from around 1967 ((standard was set up in 1965 IIRC? It's mainly to do with the root and crest shape), Honda has some JIS and specials. (JIS fine?) Almost all of the 10mm threads are also 1.25mm pitch
 
Alright, engine is back in with no assistance from the tired helper in the chair. Will finish up the wiring tonight and see if I can get it timed and started.
 

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Hey Sonrier,

I finally got the engine back in and everything is wired up, though I re read through this just now and do not have a bare metal contact behind the ignition coil mounts. So maybe that is the issue.

But last night I went to give the starter a turn again after its rebuild, and unfortunately it still didn't turn.

Things noted now that are different:
-When I push the starter button, the solenoid makes a buzzing noise. Before it would only click once. Is this indicative of the solenoid being fried? I tried to just bridge them with a screwdriver and no turning of starter.
-Still haven't bought a new battery, but I used my tractor jump starter connected to the bad battery at 200A when I tried to turn the engine over and thats when the buzzing came.
-I have the bar controls you sent me that were the cdi buttons, so the kill switch is wired backwards. Would this affect anything?


Could all of this be from a bad/no ground point behind the coils? Everything else works properly (all lights).
 
The bar controls shouldn't be an issue, no.

With the tractor battery hooked up, does bridging the solenoid studs with a wrench cause the starter motor to turn?
 
No sir, no starter turning. Which I thought was sort of weird, usually when the solenoid is bad you can bridge it and the starter will turn.
Wasn't a tractor battery, it was a tractor jump starter/battery charger turned to the 200A selection which is designated for starting purposes.
 
Oh, OK. Just for giggles, do you have a spare 12V battery you can hook up to? Maybe jumper cables from a car (with the engine turned off)?
 
Sure do, Ill try it out this afternoon.

Just for knowledge sake, why is there the potential that it will work using a battery? But not the charger
 
Just to double-check things. I don't have a lot of confidence in plug in jump starters. You'll probably get the same result as before, but I just wanted to rule it out.
 
cb360j said:
But last night I went to give the starter a turn again after its rebuild, and unfortunately it still didn't turn.

Things noted now that are different:
-When I push the starter button, the solenoid makes a buzzing noise. Before it would only click once. Is this indicative of the solenoid being fried? I tried to just bridge them with a screwdriver and no turning of starter.
-Still haven't bought a new battery, but I used my tractor jump starter connected to the bad battery at 200A when I tried to turn the engine over and thats when the buzzing came.
Could all of this be from a bad/no ground point behind the coils? Everything else works properly (all lights).

'Buzzing' at starter solenoid is usually a sign of bad battery or bad connections Did you test the starter before fitting it? Just use jumper leads, negative to motor body, + to cable screw, (It's high torque so hold it down in vice of with your foot) You can do same test with it fitted, make sure bike is in neutral (or on main stand, no drive chain, etc)
Test starter solenoid on bench. Connect multi-meter on continuity/Ohm's to large battery terminals, apply 12v to the thin wires. pos to Y/R, - neg to G/R. Check continuity across 6mm bolts. Should be very low or zero. The coil ground has no effect on starter circuit, if bad you won't have spark
 
So, both starters turn when 12v dc is applied to them directly. But not when I hook it up through the wiring harness. I ordered a new solenoid just for giggles.

But..... without the spark plugs in, I went to gently push the engine over via kickstart just to make sure it was working properly. And it wont budge at all. Almost drug the bike out and tossed it into the ditch I am so irritated haha.
So I took the engine back out going to tear it back apart this evening to hopefully see something really easy i missed.

I need an engine stand if I am going to be taking this stupid thing out so often. Any recommendations on small honda twin engine stands?

Would the kickstarter potentially affect anything other than just the starting of the bike? When rolling the bike around all gears work properly.
 
For when I pull the lower case apart again. If i went ahead and disassembled the remaining pieces, is it ok to go ahead and clean the inside and out with hot water and say.. simple green? It's pretty dirty so I figured I might as well.
 
cb360j said:
For when I pull the lower case apart again. If i went ahead and disassembled the remaining pieces, is it ok to go ahead and clean the inside and out with hot water and say.. simple green? It's pretty dirty so I figured I might as well.

You can use simple green or water based cleaners but I would keep it away from any steel components. I prefer to use mineral spirits as a degreaser for something like this.

So if I'm understanding correctly, your engine turns over by hand (or by the bolt on the crank, stator side) or when you have it in gear and roll it the engine turns over? Just feels like the kickstart mechanism is binding up?
 
advCo said:
You can use simple green or water based cleaners but I would keep it away from any steel components. I prefer to use mineral spirits as a degreaser for something like this.

So if I'm understanding correctly, your engine turns over by hand (or by the bolt on the crank, stator side) or when you have it in gear and roll it the engine turns over? Just feels like the kickstart mechanism is binding up?

Yessir, exactly.
 
Diesel fuel is a good choice for cleaning engine inside. and cheap by comparison to a gallon of something else.
 
Is this correct? Just pulled engine apart and everything seems to be in order. Obviously the washer that goes in front of the snap ring isnt there. Just not on for the moment.

I tried to upload a video but apparently the file is to large. But when I push down on the kickstart pedal, the mechanism closes together. Then when I let it back up, it opens. Is this correct?
 

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As long as the ratchet teeth engage and disengage it must be right. I went back to the top and could see the 'wedge' piece was up so not disengaging, in lower pic it's down and moving gear. Sorry for confusing you, I couldn't find a spare to look at, except for a NOS shaft all the complete ones are in motors
 
In terms of the charging system on these bikes, what is the output range of the alternator. Does it charge the battery above 14.8 volts or 15 volts?
 
cb360j said:
In terms of the charging system on these bikes, what is the output range of the alternator. Does it charge the battery above 14.8 volts or 15 volts?
That's determined by your regulator. They produce well over 30v above 3k rpms.
 
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