81 GS450S

jmaresca

jmaresca

New Member
Bought a non-running 81 GS450S. The previous owner couldn't get it to run and didn't want to deal with it.

As she sits
x2RKvHwh.jpg


PO broke the ignition trying to fix it. Put in a new ignition. Rear tail light was broken off.
xg0Cw1th.jpg



Took the tank off, the front light out, side plates off, and disconnected everything. Deoxidized all the connections, re-connected em, and got her running.
xpkmCBoh.jpg



Pulled the carbs, dipped em, and they'll be rebuilt over the next couple of days. Got a new set of orings, K&N pod filters, and jets coming tomorrow. Here's the difference between clean and dirty carbs:
6tCsBo1h.jpg



Mocked up a temporary plate to mount the electronics under the seat:
FNg1h7yh.jpg



Turns out I need a longer black wire from the starter, but here's the temp mount:
TKeXaJQh.jpg



Stay tuned. The build will start slow in the beginning and speed up over the next few months.
 
Dipped and rebuilt my carbs. Rejetted to a main 142.5 to start with. Added K&N pods.

PROTIP: if you are going to remount your electronics, make sure you ground your starter.

Now it's time to figure out my throttle occasionally sticking.

I think I'll rebuild a new wiring harness next.

YQOHwCV.jpg
 
Added a 45 pilot jet and went from lean to rich. Throttle was getting stuck around 3000 rpms but isn't any longer. Cut off the mufflers. I love the sound of the open pipes. Removed the remaining plastic and fenders. Grinded all the tabs off.

When you guys remove the rear fender, I've seen some of you weld some plates onto the frame in front of and above the rear tire. Do you ever worry about the tire hitting those plates? Or is that not too big of a concern?

DOZeelp.jpg


GbHqLTP.jpg


chp9Opy.jpg


lo0lwsJ.jpg


tKYeFUg.jpg
 
jmaresca said:
When you guys remove the rear fender, I've seen some of you weld some plates onto the frame in front of and above the rear tire. Do you ever worry about the tire hitting those plates? Or is that not too big of a concern?
Click to expand...

Think about what would happen if you were leaning over into a corner and hit a big bump in the road. The bump forces the rear tyre into your welded on plate and locks the rear.

Would that be a concern to you?

If so, You can tack weld your plate on and remove the shocks. Lift the swing arm with a bottle jack or whatever and simulate the travel of the rear end. You want the shocks to bottom out before the tyre hits the plate, with a margin of error.
 
Take a look at the second pic you posted and note the clearance of the stock fender to the tire. I would maintain as much of that clearance as possible. If you plan to chop the rear, maybe keep that section of fender (and the one behind the pods) to be safe.
 
hardline_42 said:
Take a look at the second pic you posted and note the clearance of the stock fender to the tire. I would maintain as much of that clearance as possible. If you plan to chop the rear, maybe keep that section of fender (and the one behind the pods) to be safe.
Click to expand...

I don't think the tire will hit a vertical plate behind the pods. I think it may hit a horizontal plate above the tire welded into the frame. I won't know until I disconnect the shocks. I hopped on the bike a few times but I'm sure that wont fully simulate hitting a bump at speed. Since I plan on getting Hagons, can't I account for the travel that way and just make sure I get a pair that wont let the tire hit the horizontal plate?
 
jmaresca said:
I don't think the tire will hit a vertical plate behind the pods. I think it may hit a horizontal plate above the tire welded into the frame. I won't know until I disconnect the shocks. I hopped on the bike a few times but I'm sure that wont fully simulate hitting a bump at speed. Since I plan on getting Hagons, can't I account for the travel that way and just make sure I get a pair that wont let the tire hit the horizontal plate?
Click to expand...

Just make sure you know what the effects of your suspension changes will be on the overall handling of the bike. If by "accounting for travel" you mean getting longer shocks, be aware of what raising the rear suspension will do to the front end (and whether or not the noodley 33mm tubes can handle it). If you mean getting much stiffer stock length (13") shocks to limit travel, be aware of the effects on the noodley stock swingarm and frame.

Why do you want to weld a plate there in the first place?
 
hardline_42 said:
Just make sure you know what the effects of your suspension changes will be on the overall handling of the bike. If by "accounting for travel" you mean getting longer shocks, be aware of what raising the rear suspension will do to the front end (and whether or not the noodley 33mm tubes can handle it). If you mean getting much stiffer stock length (13") shocks to limit travel, be aware of the effects on the noodley stock swingarm and frame.

Why do you want to weld a plate there in the first place?
Click to expand...

The vertical in front of the tire will be to protect the pods. A horizontal will go directly under the front of the seat to mount electonics. A horizontal will go above to tire to be a sort of protection against stuff getting kicked up. It will also serve to reinforce the frame when I put a back hoop in. I'm trying to keep the suspension as close to stock as possible.
 
jmaresca said:
The vertical in front of the tire will be to protect the pods. A horizontal will go directly under the front of the seat to mount electonics. A horizontal will go above to tire to be a sort of protection against stuff getting kicked up. It will also serve to reinforce the frame when I put a back hoop in. I'm trying to keep the suspension as close to stock as possible.
Click to expand...

I think, if you're going to put in a rear hoop, the additional reinforcement of a welded plate above the tire is overkill and not worth the potential clearance problems if you're keeping the suspension stock, or close to it. If you just want to keep crud out from under there, you could use the stock fender and trim it so it's not visible below the frame or mount a hugger fender. If you want to weld some metal to the frame, you could cut up one of those universal steel chopper fenders.
 
It's been awhile. Had to buy a welder and get some parts. I broke the bike down completely and all that's left is a frame. Today I finished grinding out all tabs, grinding down slugs for the rear hoop, and fabbed a holder for the electronics under the seat.

nowkKrm.jpg


jELo5mz.jpg
 
Metal work is almost done. Just need to fab a seat pan and drill mounting points. Then I'll blast and paint the frame. Yes I know my welds suck, it's my first time 8)

8fH3tKv.jpg


doMhShq.jpg


SCTTMWJ.jpg
 
Looks good! Is the tail light bracket attached to the underside of the hoop? It looks like it might bounce around a bit if it's just attached to that piece of flat stock.
 
hardline_42 said:
Looks good! Is the tail light bracket attached to the underside of the hoop? It looks like it might bounce around a bit if it's just attached to that piece of flat stock.
Click to expand...

Not yet, it will be once I get the height/angle set. After looking at the pics of the turn signal bracket, I think I'm going to shorten them to bring the signals in closer to the center.
 
Cut and mounted a seat pan

ROHe5ff.jpg


Next I stripped all of the metal. What a time consuming process. Hindsight is 20/20. Originally, I tried soda blasting the whole thing, but that can be quite a process. If I could go back and do it over, here's what I would have done:

Strip all metal parts with Aircraft Remover. The quart size container should be enough for a motorcycle. It'll take a few coats/rinses and that won't get everything off. Wear gloves and if you get it on your gloves, rinse off. It WILL eat through gloves.

Hit any small spots left or unreachable spots with the soda blaster. I got the cheapo unit from Harbor Freight. If I would have used the remover in the first place, I could have gotten away with only 1 50 pound bag of soda. You should now be at bare metal and can paint.

ZabkLzg.jpg


First, I used masking tape on all holes. Then I went around all holes with a razor to cut off excess. After that I started painting. I just finished my first coat on the frame and second coat on the swing arm, brake bracket, kickstand and center stand.
 
Got the engine and frame painted. Ordered some Shinko 712s. Have to get them mounted and balanced. Put some new gaskets in the motor. Swapped the stupid Phillips screws in the motor for stainless allen screws. Got some new brake pads and brake rebuild parts.

Black is the new chrome.

9WdTnZE.jpg


oeMrzwl.jpg


EzCjfIh.jpg


TePvLbF.jpg
 
Started the final build. Got new rubbers mounted and balanced. Painted the wheels and gas tank. Fabbed a new seat. Got a bad master cylinder, so I need to order a new one.

Huw4RmH.jpg


trOpDvM.jpg


AmNeaTP.jpg


adEimxK.jpg
 
1zljbYg.jpg


The end is near. Got everything hooked up. Electrical system is working. All lights are good. Got an antigravity battery. Got a new master cylinder, a slew of jets, and bar end mirrors coming tomorrow.

I've got some kind of idling issue in the carbs. I was able to start it up by pulling on the throttle, but it wouldn't idle on it's own. After doing this for awhile, it wouldn't kick over at all. I probably flooded it. Need to adjust my air screws, idle screw, and maybe my pilot jet. I'm running a 142.5 main jet and 45 pilot jet. Any help is appreciated.
 
jmaresca said:
1zljbYg.jpg


The end is near. Got everything hooked up. Electrical system is working. All lights are good. Got an antigravity battery. Got a new master cylinder, a slew of jets, and bar end mirrors coming tomorrow.

I've got some kind of idling issue in the carbs. I was able to start it up by pulling on the throttle, but it wouldn't idle on it's own. After doing this for awhile, it wouldn't kick over at all. I probably flooded it. Need to adjust my air screws, idle screw, and maybe my pilot jet. I'm running a 142.5 main jet and 45 pilot jet. Any help is appreciated.
Click to expand...

Wow, it's come pretty far. You should call it "The Black Ironing Board" :)
I had the same issues with flooding the carbs. I chased it around for a while and it turned out to be a bad petcock. Drain the oil and see if you've got gas in there. Don't keep trying to start it until you know for sure. If' you've stripped and dipped the carbs and cleaned out every little passage, there's no carb-related reason you shouldn't idle (assuming you have air and spark). Keep at it and report back. Also, make sure to check the valve clearances.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom