Rose City '69 cb350

hawyn9 said:
From Keaukaha (Hilo side) grew up on hawaiiian homestead. 1/2 hawyn / 1/2 white but grew up hawaiian all the way. My family didn't understand my crazy white ways growing up. They always said i'm gonna hurt myself.
I love Kona, been twice in th last 3 years. So nice on the big island!
 
I got some Airtech clip-ons on the way and I'm gonna trim my fork sleeve to fit with my new superhawk speedo. Just sandblasted my speedo and prepping to paint. Probably gonna deck the engine, new pistons and sleeves soon and possibly bore and new cam if my tax refund works out like i'm hoping. Pics soon! My 325cc (350) will finally be a true 350cc.........more like a 354cc or so but still.
 
Decided to take off the fork sleeves and go with a naked front end. I powder coated the fork springs to expose 'em, put on some new headlight ears to drop my freshly poweder coated satin black Superhawk speedo and give it a streamlined look with my Airtech clipons. After putting it back together, I realized I forgot a fork shim under the triple tree above the spring. Tomorrow brings all new cables to finally rid my bike of the 40 year old ones. Next is finding some awesome rearsets. I'll get more pics with the speedo on and the shims above the springs.
cb350rustyspring.jpg

cleanedcb350forksprings.jpg

forksdonecb350.jpg

cb350almostdonefrontend.jpg
 
And here she is with the speedo headlight and the shim above the fork springs. New cables tonight and I'm "on the road again..." until the next part I buy
superhawkcb350-1.jpg
 
Nice, I did the exact same thing on my 350 a few months back. Lost the sleeves and pc'd the springs. I like the look.
~chris
 
RoseCityCafePunk138 said:
And here she is with the speedo headlight and the shim above the fork springs. New cables tonight and I'm "on the road again..." until the next part I buy
superhawkcb350-1.jpg
When you ordered the new cables, how much shorter did you go from the stock ones? I still have very long and unruly stock cables. I need to do something about that...
~chris
 
Sonreir said:
Looking good, Chris! Where did you get the new cables from?
I got them from the shop I'm apprenticing at called Bridge City Cycles out of Portland, Oregon.
Check 'em out!
http://bridgecitycycles.com/
I haven't shortened the cables yet, they actually aren't too long on mine, a tad bit but nothing out of control. At least the throttle cable. Maybe the front brakes though, we'll see when they come in.
 
I am in the market for rearsets ad was thinking about the loaded gun set but haven't seen much feedback on them. Also looking at the set the guy on here sells. Any feedback?
 
So I started making my own rearsets and I found that on a 69 cb350 if you take off the exhaust mounting brackets (the triangle piece) and flip it upside down and mount it to the passenger foot peg bracket, you can attach the passenger footpeg back on. Then what I did was take an old cb750 or 550 brake lever, cut it to my desired lenght (size 13 shoe) and re-welded it back on. I then had to cut the brake linkage tab from the brake lever and re-weld it so it doesn't hit the foot peg. Then of course I had to re-configure the linkage to the brake using a rod-end bearing. All using stock era parts. As for the shifter, I cut that to desired length, removed and re-welded the peg back on to the shifter in the desired length and then heated up the shifter lever to add a bicycle crank arm type bend in the lever to get it away from the frame. Then it was just linkage I needed. I will post pics up. Since I've been so busy working on it, I've forgot to get pics. Plus apprenticing at Bridge City Cycles keeps me busy too. But for all you that aren't into the billet aluminum look and want a more era correct looking rearset, this was fairly simple if you can use a welder and have access to metal cutting tools.
 
still haven't been in the shop for days due to being sick but here is my engine after a little brief oil change/polish and I also swapped out the old phillips head screws for some s/s socket cap screws. I also started configuring the way I wanted to set up my rearsets and started figuring out linkage. I wanted my rear brakes to work properly since I've seen most people when they get rearsets attach the linkage upside down to the rear drum. If you play with the rear drum when it's off the bike you will notice when it's mounted the stock way, your drum brake little cam actuator actuates more so than when it's hooked up the wrong way (pull vs. push). I wanna make sure my rear brake works fully.
photo-1.jpg

and here she is right before the tear down to make my rear sets. I will get the rearsets pics up within the week. This pic was right before I cut down my new cables
photo.jpg
 
Here is a shot of the exhaust brackets flipped upside down with the passenger peg mounted on to show. I'm gonna look for a more era correct looking round peg.
photo-3.jpg

photo-4-1.jpg

and here is a shot of the new positing of the shifter peg on the shifter arm. I'll be cutting the excess off and rounding it off and welding around the base to strengthen it then put the rubber sleeve back on.. I will get a shot of it with the new bicycle crank arm type bends in it to get the arm away from the frame.
photo-4.jpg

and here is the brake pedal after I cut off the linkage tab and took a few inches out of it. I'll placed 2 lines on each side as to align them to my desired weld spot. I am also griding down where the linkage tab was and I'm going to wait until everything is mounted to position the linkage tab back to the brake pedal
photo-1-1.jpg

photo-2.jpg

Call me an era nazi but I like my bike that way. I'm the same way with my '59 Ford. I even replaced the generator instead of converting to an alternator. I was born in the wrong generation!!!
 
I've been debating making a set of lake pipes for my bike. Anybody seen this done on a motorcycle? Also, fabricating a better set of brackets for the rearsets since the exhaust brackets are a little flimsy for my 210 pound frame. Bent the shifter out a bit and trimmed the brake pedal a tad too. More pics to come. Still gotta fable licence plate frame/tail light mounting bracket.
 
*Sorry for the iPhone pics* Here is my licence plate/tail light bracket setup and my finally finished rearsets. I took a brake arm from a 750, cut it, trimmed the mount 1/4" to allow clearance for the kickstarter and had to bore it out a tad to fit an oil impregnated brass bushing. I looked for the best, most direct un-obstructed pull from the linkage and welded a new tab on the brake arm. We also re-positioned the brake arm position since I'm 6'4" by drilling a hole in the drum brake bracket. On the shifter, it got cut down a few inches, gave it a bend for clearance, re-welded back on the foot peg, welded the seem shut and grinded smooth. I was hoping for a semi-modest, stock looking rearset instead of the billet new school look. I think I captured exactly what I was going for. Gonna test them out then powder coat them black and cut out some 1/4" thick aluminum rearset brackets so i can polish them up nicely and have a tad more support. Pretty stoked on 'em though. Also, gonna powder coat the licence plate frame black; MURDERED OUT!!!Now I just need to get exhaust to clear the rearsets because for now it's straight pipes and don't feel like cooking my feet.
Tatescafelicenceplate1.jpg

photo-5.jpg

TatesCafebrakerearset.jpg

photo-6.jpg
 
Exhaust is done finally. Here's a pic from a few days ago. I know it's not what everybody else likes or does but coming from a hot rod background and being a member of the DRIVEN DEAD CAR CLUB which is all pre 1965 rods and customs, I like my bike to have a tad hot rod flavor hence the flat black, pinstriping and the turnout mufflers. You don't like it? I really don't care!
547269_463341653682758_100000207822428_1955219_1610454054_n.jpg
 
Swivel said:
You have too many problems with your rearsets and you say "you don't care!",but here goes!

Try fitting your gear lever on the motor in a backwards position and then you will have an upside down "Race"shift pattern which is fine to use,but don't then let a friend ride it who's not used to it!

Weld your rearset pegs bolted on the brackets,because if they slip they will cause problems(like locking the brake up).

Fit a big fat rubber band to the middle of the brake lever up to the frame somewhere for it to return correctly and weld some kind of "stop"for the rear brake lever when it is back "at rest".....
I actually don't have a single problem with my rearsets. I hammered out all the details on them and they work just as they did stock but in a rearset set-up. I don't like riding GP style. The only thing I'm going to do is make a thicker rearset bracket and attach the rear brake light activator spring. As for not caring, I was talking about my exhaust. I have only had it finished for a few days now and had 4 people bitch about it saying how they would do reverse megaphone or dunstal style muffler. They also don't like my superhawk speedo, rearsets, avon tires or flat black paint with pinstriping. So as that all goes, I really don't care what people have to say. It's my bike and as long as I'm happy riding it and it works as good as stock or better, I don't care what people think. I had my buddy who races OMRA tell me just to do GP shift style too and I debated it but I just didn't want to go that route and wanted soemthing a tad less billet looking, more era looking. Thanks for the input though. I know a few guys that don't like my set up that might dig your input.
 
also, not really sure why you would weld the peg on when you have the support of a bolt to hold it on which. I modeled my rearsets after the Tarozzi style just not styled the same. And a rubberband just seems rinky dink when mine are attached the same as stock and function the same. Everything shifts as stock and works as stock. What would the benefits be of your way of doing things? You have a link or pics of your setup?
 
Back
Top Bottom