Jetting of a CL360 1974

I friend of mine brought a bike I sold him a couple months ago asking me to put pods on it and cut the mufflers aswell as some other cosmetic minor stuff and change his rec/reg to a sparkmoto system. After advising him I would not do either of these (pods n chopped muffler) if it were my bike still and him understanding the challenges he decided to go forward anyways. I'm doing it one step at a time, putting on pods first and then moding for baffled n chopped mufflers. I went into the carbs first to check functionality, everything's fine. I next put pods on. Having a few pops from carbs while idling and bogging between 1000-3000 rpms. After 3000 bike takes off runs perfectly. I did a plug chop and plugs are black and showing a "too rich". Which totally confuses me considering the pods shouldve increased airflow. But it is what it is. My next step, and this is where I'd like the peanut gallery to chime in. Is to lower floats to 21mm. See if that shows a result. If that does not cure the systems switch jets to 115/70/38. What do you guys think? pic is bike and spark plug chop result.

BTW i heavily reccomend sparkmotos reg/rec easy installation and product works perfectly if not better than oem

Let's start at the beginning. All that plug tells us is that it did not get hot enough to burn off the carbon deposits. That may be because it;s rich or because the motor was not being run hard enough or because the plug is too cold/hard.

Some aftermarket pods are very restrictive and will make it run rich. How did you do that plug chop? Plug chops are the least accurate way to determine A:F ratios (mixture) because they are only relevant at high load and full throttle. At less that WOT and full load the plug runs much cooler and will look "rich" even when the mixture is actually perfect.

What plugs are in it and are they new?

I ran the bike after putting on pods in all rpm ranges and pulled previous plugs at the end of that ride (without plugchop 20min ride top speed 55 city streets stop n go). Similar characteristics visible on those plugs. When I got back to garage had trouble starting and pulled plugs thinking I may have fouled plugs (possible). I then installed new spark plugs and ran it 5mins never going over the stumble range and executing the chop at 2700ish. Bike was warm, plugs are ngk b8es

I thought I should include these aswell current jetting-
Main-100
Second main-65
Slow-35
Air screw- 1.5 turned out

Your pods are probably blocking your air bleeds. Show a picture of them.

Do not jet any circuit leaner or lower the float level until we can evaluate your pods. If they were cheap they are junk. Pretty much UNI and K&N are the only decent pods, again show a pic of the outside and the inlet side of your pods.

So after posting last went in and dropped the float height to 21mm. Dramatic improvement. No stumble no bog. Carbs/exhast do have a slight pop infrequently. Usually at first idle after start or went down shifting at speed (like when making a turn). Bike actually runs faster. Takes off from the line quicker. And is consuming more gas. This may all be in my head lol. Was tired and didnt have energy to check plug colors.

Dohc yeah they are cheapos from 4into1, actually a bit worried about them coming apart. But not blocking anything (literatly

Will update later in the week before going onto next step.

Why won't you post a pic of them? I can almost guarantee they block airflow from somewhere.

Ya, it runs better now because your cheap pods made it run richer, which should automatically tell you that you're engine is now consuming less air. Period.

work9to5 said:

I thought I should include these aswell current jetting-
Main-100
Second main-65
Slow-35
Air screw- 1.5 turned out

Click to expand...

Got that backwards.
Pilot - 35 Don't mess with it
PRIMARY MAIN - 68 don't mess with that either
SECONDARY MAIN JET anywhere from 110 to 125 depending on exhaust system (with K&N filters, no experience with cheap pods or Uni's)
If you fit K&N filters and bigger secondary main jets, it will never run right until carbs are 'fixed' (it isn't possible to 'jet out' the problems)
Float level at 21mm is my recommendation, it's about 2mm~3mm higher than stock (depending on the manual you used for stock spec : )