Down under, an idiot and a 400F
- Thread starter neevo
- Start date
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Oh, me bad :-[
Forgot you got a wider rear rim.
Yep, having spokes at different tension can cause rim flanges to wobble.
I usually start with rims like that though, never know what your getting with used stuff.
It is fixable, just takes a bit of playing with at different locations on rim to pull things into shape.
It is a lot easier with DTI, you can see how tightening one spoke moves rim a few thou
Forgot you got a wider rear rim.
Yep, having spokes at different tension can cause rim flanges to wobble.
I usually start with rims like that though, never know what your getting with used stuff.
It is fixable, just takes a bit of playing with at different locations on rim to pull things into shape.
It is a lot easier with DTI, you can see how tightening one spoke moves rim a few thou
neevo
Over 1,000 Posts
Oh lords of cafe give me your thoughts... on my lower shock mounts.
The uppermost section isn't done yet, leaving plenty of material on there so I can easily adjust the mounting position if required.
It's quite heavy duty and could probably be trimmed further, would appreciate some inputs;
Test fit on the bike. Lower loop goes round a cross brace on the upper supports, upper loop goes around swingarm brace:
Test fit with an analogue for the shock too:
The uppermost section isn't done yet, leaving plenty of material on there so I can easily adjust the mounting position if required.
It's quite heavy duty and could probably be trimmed further, would appreciate some inputs;
Test fit on the bike. Lower loop goes round a cross brace on the upper supports, upper loop goes around swingarm brace:
Test fit with an analogue for the shock too:
I, on the other hand, would take those cute plates off and weld a pair of simple brackets in line with the main brace. It's simpler lighter but only a straight (non-rising) rate that way. It simplifies the forces and eliminates a twisting force.
OR... I wonder if the shock could go vertical with a linkage below the swingarm?
There never any shortage of alternative ways to do something.
OR... I wonder if the shock could go vertical with a linkage below the swingarm?
There never any shortage of alternative ways to do something.
neevo
Over 1,000 Posts
PJ: Are you suggesting lifting the rear shock mount so the shock is more horizontal? That can be done easily, just might need to redo the mounts as the shock length is fixed (290mm eye to eye). Only thing I would need to worry about is the spring on the shock clearing the subframe tray (Hagons do have a thin profile spring luckily).
Teazer: Are you suggesting mounting the shock directly onto the brace to keep the angle the same? This might work as I think the brace still arcs upwards. I might take some pics of the brace arc to double check.
Keep the inputs coming, pro's and con's with them too if possible so I've got some background to decide around too.
Teazer: Are you suggesting mounting the shock directly onto the brace to keep the angle the same? This might work as I think the brace still arcs upwards. I might take some pics of the brace arc to double check.
Keep the inputs coming, pro's and con's with them too if possible so I've got some background to decide around too.
neevo
Over 1,000 Posts
crazypj said:
Yeah your right. Just took photos without thinking about that. I am going to set swingarm just lower than horizontal with shock fully extended, should give clearance and enough travel when fully compressed.
Does it make sense to get rid of the figure 8 mounts and weld a simple mount to the brace?
You want a maximum static droop angle of say 10 degrees but anywhere from zero to 10 is fine. Measure the shock without its spring to see how long it is fully extended and fully compressed.
Raise the wheel to full compressed shock position with the shock in different positions and see what angle it would be at. That will give you a pretty good idea of what will work and what will not.
Raise the wheel to full compressed shock position with the shock in different positions and see what angle it would be at. That will give you a pretty good idea of what will work and what will not.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
That would work but may be better to have around 10 deg unladen.
You'll have to support frame and not swing arm to get it right.
You'll have around 30 ~ 40mm when you sit on it and about 10~15mm with just weight of bike if spring rate is correct (and about 5deg droop)
You'll have to support frame and not swing arm to get it right.
You'll have around 30 ~ 40mm when you sit on it and about 10~15mm with just weight of bike if spring rate is correct (and about 5deg droop)
deepwaterimports
Over 1,000 Posts
all this strengthening she will be unbreakable mate awesome work
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
Looking great Neevo, hard to believe it's the same bike.
I realy like the speed hole in the levers, nice detail. I'm thinking those killer headlight mounts need a few, maybe in a triangle patern.
Just a suggestion, you go Brother!
I realy like the speed hole in the levers, nice detail. I'm thinking those killer headlight mounts need a few, maybe in a triangle patern.
Just a suggestion, you go Brother!
neevo
Over 1,000 Posts
Hoosier Daddy said:
The levers already come with those speed holes, thats why they are well done and look good
Good point on the headlight brackets, I'm probably going to mount the front indicators in the middle so will see how that looks then see if speed holes will improve the look.
