thinking of murdering out my bike.

Finally got the tank mostly cleaned out. I like the idea of the satin black motor and polishing the covers I do have some exhaust wrap so I'll probably do that as well going to order new mirror and marker lights front and rear. Now that I have money to get it fixed up better I do happen to have a spoked wheels from a 1998 Suzuki RM 125 dirt bike that I parted out so maybe I can make them fit the rear tho I would have to make into disk brakes. May look into it a little bit since it don't take much to pull the wheels. I'm pretty sure the axle diameters aren't the same but if I swap bearing or something maybe I can make it work I would like to keep the speedometer tho. When I bring the bike back out I'll start painting some of the smaller parts.
 
I need the rear calipar hanger and calipar off a 90's rm125 so pm me if you decide to sell them and besides there is no coush drive on that wheel you will distroy your transmission

hell what do you want for the whole wheel and brake
 
My game plan is to do the motor satin black and polish the side covers paint the lower legs satin and the fender satin and rear fender the side covers are graphite and the carb topsnajd valve cover are graphite I'll probably let the go the tank is going vht burnt copper I've used this paint on the rims on my car an they survived the salty winter so this paint is tough and engine enamel so should be OK if gas gets on it I have to bake the tank in the oven tho to make the paint cure to be chemical resistant no biggy I was thinking of flipping the headlight mounts upside down to lower it also gonna move the tool bag to behind the seat like suggested reason I had it there was to cover where the Honda emblem was
 
Beyond all black being a major pain in the ass, no matter how nice your coatings are, in the end its going to look like you just spray bombed it..

This was powder and ceramic coated, ALL fasteners plated with Black zinc (Burbank Plating), flat black paint with flat clear... I'll never do it again, this was three + years work, if you're going to put it all that work I'd really encourage you to not use one color or it will look like you just spray bombed it.

Couldn't find a pic when this was complete, but this was close...

 
Yeah I think all black may be a bit much the burnt copper should stand out well with the satin black the bike when the paints done will be satin black burnt copper and graphite
 
If you are talking about stretching the swing arm why are you afraid to modify a tank tunnel to fit the frame? Swing arm seems way scarier to me.
 
Indeed didnt really think about it honestly if I wanted I could cut the back done out and just add a straight tube to it so I can run a different tank.
 
With a name like neondave, why do you want to make it black at all? That thing should be neon.
 
Lol nah I drive a 300 whp neon SRT 4 and a lot of my friends used to call me neon Dave so it kinda stuck. But that's why I'm gonna paint the tank burnt copper to match my car.
 
neondave said:
Lol nah I drive a 300 whp neon SRT 4 and a lot of my friends used to call me neon Dave so it kinda stuck. But that's why I'm gonna paint the tank burnt copper to match my car.
Good choice. The SRT4's are nice. You're getting nearly the power of my 383 Roadrunner. Hell, that's not too far off the Hemi in my Ram. You've got to be breaking down the modded WRX's with that bug.
 
I've beat plenty of wrxs and even a new mustang and camaro I love the car ts pretty fast I also have a 1974 Plymouth cuda I have to restore and a 1979 AMC Cherokee chief with a 392 v8 that I'm in then process of finishing
 
neondave said:
Indeed didnt really think about it honestly if I wanted I could cut the back done out and just add a straight tube to it so I can run a different tank.

You could also split the tank in half and widen it out as needed. Sounds like you are handy with a welder...
 
Honestly not very good with a welder lol still kinda a beginner or its the welder I'm using a cheap harbor frieght with no adjustments lol my boss on the other hand its a magician lol I'm gonna I have to get the sides of the tank welded where the emblems use to be so its smooth. I tried last year and kept burning through it cuz I have no heat adjustment only wire speed gonna smooth the stock tank and paint it nice the shape of the stock tank isn't to bad although I really want a mustang dual cap tank for it.
 
You need a welding spoon to dissipate heat and prevent blowout. You can buy one, or make it by flattening the end of copper pipe.
$(KGrHqMOKowFG6PF5n5EBRww+0UNlg~~60_35.JPG

Also, do a lot of small tacks when working with sheet, and basically sew it together.
 
I got ya it works like a heat sink copper will conduct the heat and draw it away from the tank makes sense my boss is really good at welding I was lost likely going to have him to it lol I watched him smooth out a bumper for a 68 mustang we are working on and it came out great. Now thicknesses are abit different between a bumper and gas tank but he is a great welder.
 
JohnGoFast said:
This was powder and ceramic coated, ALL fasteners plated with Black zinc (Burbank Plating), flat black paint with flat clear... I'll never do it again, this was three + years work, if you're going to put it all that work I'd really encourage you to not use one color or it will look like you just spray bombed it.

So true. There has to be some contrast, and something to indicate that it wan't just spray painted. As an example, stainless sidecover fasteners on a black engine are always a nice touch, as it tells me the engine was painted properly and not spray painted while assembled. Contrast adds depth and the perception of quality. On my build, I left the middle gear unpainted to brake up the black, move the visual weight of the bike forwards, and to make it more obvious that the engine wasn't painted while assembled.
 
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