Cb360 Reassembly Help

Hook it up just like you were attempting to jump the bike. Leave the bike battery connected and car turned off. Positive to positive and negative to negative.
 
Hooked it up, no turn over. The solenoid only clicks once. Tried to bridge it with a screw driver and still nothing. Are the brushes just bad in the starter? Have no idea where to go from here.
 
That's my guess. If you can't get the starter motor to turn over with a car battery hooked up and bridging the solenoid, then it's down to one of three things:

1.) Bad starter motor wire from the solenoid to the starter motor
2.) Bad ground back to the battery
3.) Bad starter motor (and/or its internals)
 
Fortunately you gave me two wires from the starter to the solenoid. I’ll give it a shot with the other one when I get home. Wouldn’t I just be able to test continuity on the cable and that would rule that out?

I’ll clean the ground spot off even More just to make sure it’s not that. But if there is a bad ground, wouldn’t the lights not turn on? Cause they all do.

I’ll go ahead and order a starter rebuild kit just for good measure I suppose.
One thing I noticed when I was trying to do static timing, I couldn’t get the test light to come on. Is that indicative of anything
 
cb360j said:
Wouldn’t I just be able to test continuity on the cable and that would rule that out?

Unfortunately, no. Multimeters don't run enough current to show the "actual" resistance at operation. They can tell you if the cable is bad, but not if it's good.

[quote author=cb360j]I’ll clean the ground spot off even More just to make sure it’s not that. But if there is a bad ground, wouldn’t the lights not turn on? Cause they all do.[/quote]

Same issue as the bad cable example above. Headlight pulls a lot less current, so it's less susceptible to resistance in the line.

Ohm's Law is Amps = Voltage / Resistance. Now things break down a little bit because a starter motor is an inductive load, but let's assume a steady 12V and your starter motor pulling 80A. The algebra tells us that resistance would be .15Ω. But if you have too much resistance in the line and you're actually at .25Ω then your starter motor is only getting 48A when it really wants 80A. A little resistance has a huge effect when your current requirements are high. Your headlight (in the stock form) is 35W (12V * 2.9A). So "ideal" resistance for that circuit would be 4.13Ω. What happens if we add .10Ω to that equation like we did with the starter motor? We get a draw of 2.83A, instead. A very small difference.

[quote author=cb360j]One thing I noticed when I was trying to do static timing, I couldn’t get the test light to come on. Is that indicative of anything[/quote]

It would be related to not getting your spark plugs to fire, but not related to the starter motor not working.
 
Fair point. My fluke isn’t even reading any resistance on the cable, with it on the high resolution setting lol

At least I made quick work of the engine removal tonight
 

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cb360j said:
Fortunately you gave me two wires from the starter to the solenoid. I’ll give it a shot with the other one when I get home. Wouldn’t I just be able to test continuity on the cable and that would rule that out?

I’ll clean the ground spot off even More just to make sure it’s not that. But if there is a bad ground, wouldn’t the lights not turn on? Cause they all do.

I’ll go ahead and order a starter rebuild kit just for good measure I suppose.
One thing I noticed when I was trying to do static timing, I couldn’t get the test light to come on. Is that indicative of anything
You could do voltage drop at either end of cable, you could buy a $10.00 automotive Ammeter that goes to at least 60 amps (should be around 45 amps when cranking, probably full range for a second when it first bumps over)You should have bare metal connector on frame behind ignition coil bolt and another at rear engine mount where ground lead fits from battery. It's also a good idea to clean paint off crankcase top rear mounts plus frame inside where motor will be clamped. Original stock cases do not have bottom case painted and ythe front right lower mount has spring washers that cut through paint to provide good grounding (they are always rusty around one bolt hole through bottom)
 
The FSM shows what order the kickstart shaft goes together but not how everything should be oriented.... it’s not ratcheting so what am I doing wrong?
 

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That wedge shaped piece should have the plate pulling it back out of engagement. I haven't done one for a while but pretty sure there are punch marks on gear driver and shaft for alignment. You'll have to pull it aoart again to find them (it's not the 'dot' to alighn kick-start lever) Oh, I think the plate and spring are also reversed, it's too far away from 'wedge'
 
Would it make sense for the kickstart to be put together correctly but not ratcheting because it isnt connected to the gears?
 
So I have the mechanism put together correctly.
But every time I put the cases back together, which has been twice now. I can’t turn the kickstart over by hand. On my cb550 I can. So it doesn’t seem right to me. It feels like it locks up. But if I put a ratchet on the crank then I can turn the entire engine over no problem. Maybe a gear just isn’t meshing when it comes together? Is this normal ?
 
The way the kick-start mechanism works is designed tio turn transmission. It should still turn over but will turn output sprocke if in geart. Have you removed spark plugs? I don't think it's possible to turn it over by hand with motor on bench with plugs in. If you have clutch plates removed you should see centre hub turn without any problem though
 
I haven't actually looked at it yet. But do I need to remove the generator rotor before I can take the starter off, or can it come out without take that apart?
I try to study up on the manual pretty well before heading home from work but it isn't to clear on this.

Also, there is a wire coming from where the neutral switch is connected. As I don't have a neutral indicator, is this wire necessary? Can I just remove it
 
You can leave rotor in place but you will have starter reduction and one way clutch still in place. You have to remove cover so you can get small sprocket and chain out. It's better if you remove rotor and then 3 #3 scres to remove starter clutch. http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0 look at reply #10 for pic of all the parts that get removed. With a smaller battery you have a substantial weight saving (around 13lbs)
 
Well im not trying to eliminate the starter, just removing it for rebuild since I concluded the starter wasn't working. But thank you, that answered the question.
 
You still need to remove cover so you can get small sprocket back onto starter splines
 
Does anyone know what type of screw/thread/length connects the starter to the engine case? The two screws that go in the two left holes in this photo. Not the two really long ones.
 

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M6 x 25, not sure about the pitch, but probably 1.25?

When in doubt, check the parts fiche.
 
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