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Author Topic: 1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)  (Read 74996 times)

Offline Sonreir

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Re: 1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)
« Reply #340 on: May 29, 2018, 12:46:03 »
Right on!
Sparck Moto - http://www.sparckmoto.com

Audaces fortuna iuvat.

1977 Honda CJ360 - Café SOS - Stage One™, Café SOS - Stage Two™
1976 Puch Maxi - APuchalypse Now
Suzi T500 Cobra Resto

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Offline Saturdays Wrench

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Re: 1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)
« Reply #341 on: Jun 18, 2018, 15:58:58 »
With an update on the bike, besides having small recharging issues the bike is running well. The battery is dying while riding. I took her for another test run on Saturday and she still feels sweet. The m-unit allows for the headlight to be turned off, so while riding I had it off and the battery seemed to maintain voltage after both test rips so this is making me think I have a charging system issue. Initially I thought it was my battery bc I had severely drained it once before, but it is infact recharging. This is a bit more of a pain in the butt because replacing that system is going to be a way bigger job than just doing a battery swap! Next time out I'm going to check the fuse in my reg/rec circuit, if that is still intact I'll test to make sure the charging system is operating by disconnecting it from the battery and putting a tester on the neg and pos connections to see what I get. If the fuse is intact and it's not producing power I'm going to have some bigger problems on my hands (read: more expensive). I'm nervous that my rotor may be toast. Any advice on how I would know for sure??

I still have to complete a few plug chops to make sure she's running optimally. I am still slightly concerned about the engine temp after riding, she seems to run really hot and I want to avoid blowing this engine at all costs. I'm sure it's normal to be hot but I'm not sure how hot. I bought one of those fancy laser temp readers so I'll take a few measurements on the case, check the plugs at different throttle positions and report back. I may just need to do some slight tweaks on the carbs yet.

I'm working my butt off to get her ready for a motorcycle meet in July where I can finally show her off. Planning to make a little video on that that I'll be posting.

Until next time! Also looking for some friends for BOTM votes for July once I get her in good shape! ;) ;D ;D
Wrench it Up!
1973 CB350G - Project Bike
2017 Tirumph Bonneville T100

Offline Sonreir

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Re: 1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)
« Reply #342 on: Jun 18, 2018, 16:41:15 »
What wattage headlight are you running? 35W is about the maximum you want on a Honda twin and you should go even lower if you're running 3 Ohm coils. My recommendation is one of the 20W H4 LED bulbs we have on our website. They're very bright (55W halogen equivalent) but with even less draw than stock. Also, unless you have a specific reason to do so, I would stick with 5 Ohm coils.

As far as temps go, try to measure right at the spark plug hole. You should be around 175°C and I would definitely start to worry if you get up to 200°C. Measurements should be taken at WOT, so may be difficult to accomplish without specialized equipment.
Sparck Moto - http://www.sparckmoto.com

Audaces fortuna iuvat.

1977 Honda CJ360 - Café SOS - Stage One™, Café SOS - Stage Two™
1976 Puch Maxi - APuchalypse Now
Suzi T500 Cobra Resto

Custom Gauge Graphics
Custom Wiring Harnesses

DTT Red, White, and/or Black 360 Club - Better than those Blue guys

Offline teazer

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Re: 1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)
« Reply #343 on: Jun 18, 2018, 17:05:39 »
............, check the plugs at different throttle positions and report back. I may just need to do some slight tweaks on the carbs yet..............


No can do.  The only plug chop that actually tells you anything about jetting is WOT under load.  At anything less than flat out, all you are reading is plug temperature and thinking it's a measure of jetting.  It's not. At less than WOT you may well see changes in color on a plug chop but since the plugs are not at self cleaning temperature, what are they telling you? The answer, in general, is not much aout jetting that you can interpret and act upon.

Offline Saturdays Wrench

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Re: 1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)
« Reply #344 on: Jun 18, 2018, 17:28:58 »
What wattage headlight are you running? 35W is about the maximum you want on a Honda twin and you should go even lower if you're running 3 Ohm coils. My recommendation is one of the 20W H4 LED bulbs we have on our website. They're very bright (55W halogen equivalent) but with even less draw than stock. Also, unless you have a specific reason to do so, I would stick with 5 Ohm coils.

As far as temps go, try to measure right at the spark plug hole. You should be around 175°C and I would definitely start to worry if you get up to 200°C. Measurements should be taken at WOT, so may be difficult to accomplish without specialized equipment.

35w eh?! This is the headlight I purchased. "H4 60/55 watt bulb with internal running light".. oof! Now I'm a bit concerned. I'm positive I can just replace the bulb though, correct?

Thanks for the advice on temps.

The only plug chop that actually tells you anything about jetting is WOT under load.  At anything less than flat out, all you are reading is plug temperature and thinking it's a measure of jetting.  It's not. At less than WOT you may well see changes in color on a plug chop but since the plugs are not at self cleaning temperature, what are they telling you? The answer, in general, is not much aout jetting that you can interpret and act upon.

I didn't mean to say I would take a temperature reading during the plug chops, I meant I would visually look at the plugs at different throttle positions to see if running lean or rich, etc.

« Last Edit: Jun 18, 2018, 17:30:44 by Saturdays Wrench »
Wrench it Up!
1973 CB350G - Project Bike
2017 Tirumph Bonneville T100

Offline Sonreir

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Re: 1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)
« Reply #345 on: Jun 18, 2018, 17:34:44 »
35w eh?! This is the headlight I purchased. "H4 60/55 watt bulb with internal running light".. oof! Now I'm a bit concerned. I'm positive I can just replace the bulb though, correct?

Yup. Just swap out the bulb for something with lower wattage and you should be good to. The earlier issue you were encountering was that the bike was just pulling more electricity than your alternator could produce.
Sparck Moto - http://www.sparckmoto.com

Audaces fortuna iuvat.

1977 Honda CJ360 - Café SOS - Stage One™, Café SOS - Stage Two™
1976 Puch Maxi - APuchalypse Now
Suzi T500 Cobra Resto

Custom Gauge Graphics
Custom Wiring Harnesses

DTT Red, White, and/or Black 360 Club - Better than those Blue guys

Offline Saturdays Wrench

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Re: 1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)
« Reply #346 on: Jun 19, 2018, 10:31:04 »
Yup. Just swap out the bulb for something with lower wattage and you should be good to. The earlier issue you were encountering was that the bike was just pulling more electricity than your alternator could produce.

Damn, ok this makes sense. I hope that is the problem.

Can you check out this light and tell me if it's the correct bulb? it would be the 12V-35/35w one: https://fortnine.ca/en/eiko-quartz-halogen-bulb-h4-9003-p43t

Would I loose my highbeam though??

Also, I should remind you that I'm running the Rick's Electric Hot Shot charging system which states: " The kit will put out approximately 150 watts and power a 55 watt headlight if the customers rotor has not been compromised."

Thoughts???
« Last Edit: Jun 19, 2018, 10:53:11 by Saturdays Wrench »
Wrench it Up!
1973 CB350G - Project Bike
2017 Tirumph Bonneville T100

Offline jpmobius

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Re: 1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)
« Reply #347 on: Jun 19, 2018, 11:12:15 »
The only plug chop that actually tells you anything about jetting is WOT under load.  At anything less than flat out, all you are reading is plug temperature and thinking it's a measure of jetting.  It's not. At less than WOT you may well see changes in color on a plug chop but since the plugs are not at self cleaning temperature, what are they telling you? The answer, in general, is not much about jetting that you can interpret and act upon.

You can take this to the bank.  Pretty much everything else in getting your carbs to behave like you want is a trial and error process determined by how the bike drives.  This is because under normal driving, you have the throttles nearly closed a lot of the time and otherwise constantly speeding up or slowing down.  Even if you could get a useful reading at a partial throttle opening, it would be of only anecdotal value because in reality you are more interested in transitional performance - throttle response.  Certainly it is a tricky (but hopefully fun!) task to ride your bike, try to decide where it is too lean or too rich and then figure what parts need to be swapped to effect the change you think you need, but rewarding if you persevere.  Get your main jets right first, and then PLEASE leave them alone.  Don't tune your bike with the mains.  Never forget that your so called air cooled engine is in reality, principally liquid cooled by the liquid fuel changing into a gas before it is used as an energy source.  In general this is why in practice you need more fuel than what is required for the correct theoretical air fuel ratio (among other factors).
Mobius


On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

1973 RD350 Yamaha build  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66498.0

Offline Sonreir

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Re: 1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)
« Reply #348 on: Jun 19, 2018, 11:52:11 »
Damn, ok this makes sense. I hope that is the problem.

Can you check out this light and tell me if it's the correct bulb? it would be the 12V-35/35w one: https://fortnine.ca/en/eiko-quartz-halogen-bulb-h4-9003-p43t

Would I loose my highbeam though??

Also, I should remind you that I'm running the Rick's Electric Hot Shot charging system which states: " The kit will put out approximately 150 watts and power a 55 watt headlight if the customers rotor has not been compromised."

Thoughts???

That bulb will work and so long as it's labeled as H4, you won't lose your high beam. The H4 format includes both high and low. I don't know if you'll be super thrilled with the brightness level, but it should do the trick.

As far as the rotor comment goes, at this point all of our rotors are at least a little compromised. They lose their magnetism over time. I've seen some bikes that can barely hold a charge at highway speeds and others that will charge at idle. Seems to be a bit hit and miss. Maybe try to grab a new rotor from eBay and see if that helps? Generally, the Rick's system should be good enough to run a 55W bulb without any other modifications.
Sparck Moto - http://www.sparckmoto.com

Audaces fortuna iuvat.

1977 Honda CJ360 - Café SOS - Stage One™, Café SOS - Stage Two™
1976 Puch Maxi - APuchalypse Now
Suzi T500 Cobra Resto

Custom Gauge Graphics
Custom Wiring Harnesses

DTT Red, White, and/or Black 360 Club - Better than those Blue guys

Offline Saturdays Wrench

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Re: 1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)
« Reply #349 on: Jun 19, 2018, 12:38:18 »
You can take this to the bank.  Pretty much everything else in getting your carbs to behave like you want is a trial and error process determined by how the bike drives.  This is because under normal driving, you have the throttles nearly closed a lot of the time and otherwise constantly speeding up or slowing down.  Even if you could get a useful reading at a partial throttle opening, it would be of only anecdotal value because in reality you are more interested in transitional performance - throttle response.  Certainly it is a tricky (but hopefully fun!) task to ride your bike, try to decide where it is too lean or too rich and then figure what parts need to be swapped to effect the change you think you need, but rewarding if you persevere.  Get your main jets right first, and then PLEASE leave them alone.  Don't tune your bike with the mains.  Never forget that your so called air cooled engine is in reality, principally liquid cooled by the liquid fuel changing into a gas before it is used as an energy source.  In general this is why in practice you need more fuel than what is required for the correct theoretical air fuel ratio (among other factors).

You're making a lot of sense, thanks for this info.


That bulb will work and so long as it's labeled as H4, you won't lose your high beam. The H4 format includes both high and low. I don't know if you'll be super thrilled with the brightness level, but it should do the trick.

As far as the rotor comment goes, at this point all of our rotors are at least a little compromised. They lose their magnetism over time. I've seen some bikes that can barely hold a charge at highway speeds and others that will charge at idle. Seems to be a bit hit and miss. Maybe try to grab a new rotor from eBay and see if that helps? Generally, the Rick's system should be good enough to run a 55W bulb without any other modifications.

Thanks for all your help with this. I feel like my rotor may be toast bc the Hot Shot charging system is stated to handle the 55w bulb with no issues. Therefore, either my fuse coming from my reg/rec is blown, my rotor is done or the charging system is malfunctioning. I will check the fuse next time I'm in the garage, if that's intact I am going to assume the rotor is shot bc the charging system is brand new.

Sonreir, would you happen to know what size of a flywheel puller will remove that rotor from the end of the crankshaft?

Thanks again for all your responses.
Wrench it Up!
1973 CB350G - Project Bike
2017 Tirumph Bonneville T100