1972 Honda cb350 restoration

Also, I've heard (multiple places) that it's harder to paint things that have been soda blasted. Hopefully I can find links for you, but just in case, maybe do some research on that. I can't remember why, but it might have to do with the whole alkaline/base thing...
 
Thats good to know. Never herd of something being harder to paint after soda blasting. I'll have to do some research.

I checked out kg coatings gun kote but they have so many products I don't know what to even look at. Are there any threads on here where someone has used this stuff before. Is it applie with a hvlp gun? I'm new to this sorry for all the questions. If i was to bead blast the engine while it was assembled what should be the best way to block off the exhaust ports? Stuff with some rags, put the exhaust on and cap off the ends. Anyone have any good ideas.

The help Is much appreciated. Thanks guys!
 
Okay so I did some research and seen that gun coat has to be baked on. Now the top end would be a problem since when it is dismantled I can paint/coat each piece individually and bake but how am I suppose to bake the bottom end if it is still together.
 
yeah its baked on not super tough to do its worth it
a detail gun would work fine it is thinner than paint i am a rattle can cowwboy who knows jackshit about painting,really and i just use a small gun
ill look at what i got for my last head and barrel it was gunkote something
personally i think its a mistake painting any of the engine it will be more difficult to shed heat
and it wont last very long on cooling fins the gunkote is an fine layer not an insulater like paint
anfd it is tough !
i dunno the bottem center cases to oven them in one lump would be tricky
it looks like you totally have the painting down pat though and probably have a paint in mind that will tolerate temps in the 400f range by the head/ex
you can figger out the hole pluggin yerself !! :D :( ???
 
Oh man now I really don't know what to do. I've done a bunch of research and can't find any high temp engine paint that's not in a rattle can. Everything I find is some crap from autozone ( I dot know its crap but I assume it's not the best).

Now I'm thinking about keeping it natural after I bead blast the engine.

But still thinking about doing this gun kote stuff. My only issue is I would like the cases to match the engine and I obviously can't do that with gun kote.
 
its not like you can bake the gunkote in the house ,the shit stinks like the love canal when curing it,a free oven off craiglist would be the way to go, i only do the heads and barrels,and i bought a new toaster oven and a 12 doller digital temp probe,by god
 
Baking it wouldn't be the issue I'm sure I can obtain an old oven. I just dot know what I would do with the case of I gunkote the head and barrel.
 
Delucom said:
Baking it wouldn't be the issue I'm sure I can obtain an old oven. I just dot know what I would do with the case of I gunkote the head and barrel.

Leave the center cases stock gray/aluminum and do the outside covers. It's kind of a "norm" for when you don't NEED to split the cases and don't want to rattle can. You can leave the cylinders/jugs aluminum and do the head your color. Just type in "motorcycle engine paint" in google, and do "images" and see what's out there. You might want to do the jugs, but sand the fins. Who knows!?
 
So I did a bunch of Google searching like motorbikebruno said to do. I actually like the way the entire engine looks painted but still not confident about the durability of the paint. I found some 2 part engine pain from Eastwood that had some good reviews but first im goi to clean up the engine maybe even leave it bare. We will see how it looks after she's cleaned up.
 
Sorry guys been real busy with life lately and hadn't had much time to work on the bike. I cleaned up the engine real good today and also decided to try and diagnose the starter issue I had. The starter would spin but would not grab. I assumed I would just need some caps, springs and rollers and I would be good to go. It could never be that easy lol.


So this is what I found after I took it apart. The three flat head Phillips that come up trough the clutch assembly were completely snapped in half and also a little pin (not exactly sure what the pin does).

Do you guys think I can rebuild this or do I need a new altenatir rotor The alternator rotor is pretty banged up from the bolts snapping but I don't think I would effect the way it functions.
 

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Delucom said:
Disassembled the front forks planing on replacing the fork seals. Was shocked when I noticed the fork tubes had springs on the exterior of the tubes. Everything I had seen online showed forks with springs on the inside of the tubes. So I did some more research and found out that the 68 - 71 year models have springs on the outside. Still not sure why my 1972 cb350 has 1971 style forks. Was the bike built in 71 and titled in 72? Also noticed some rust on the fork tubes but I don't think I have anything to worry about since it looks like its above where the oil seal will slide. Here are some picture of the forks, the rust ad some before and after pictures of the fork bottoms after cleaning them up. I sanded with 500, 1000, 1500, 2000 and then buffed using some red rouge.

That's a Nice CB350K3 you have there,I imagine it was a leftover and titled in 1972;the frame number should be like:# CB350-3****** I just sold my CB350K4 and it was titled as a 1973' , I owned it for 4 yrs. and it had the gold color also. 8)
 
This is going to be a very nice looking machine...good decision on restoring it; this one is way too good to hack up.
 
You could find a replacement part pretty cheap, I'd just replace it if it were mine. I like to have peace of mind...and like to ride the machine! :) Well done so far!!
 
Thanks guys!

Would anyone happen to know if the flat head Philips bolts that go through the starter clutch go into the the generator rotor? Making them one piece? Wasn't really able to tell during disassembly because the bolts were mangled when I took it apart. Any help is appreciated! Thanks Guys !

I'm talking about these bolts vvvvvvv
 

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Delucom said:
Thanks guys!

Would anyone happen to know if the flat head Philips bolts that go through the starter clutch go into the the generator rotor? Making them one piece? Wasn't really able to tell during disassembly because the bolts were mangled when I took it apart. Any help is appreciated! Thanks Guys !

I'm talking about these bolts vvvvvvv

you are going to have to replace all that anyway its all used up :'(
 
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