1970 Triumph Tiger 650
- Thread starter o1marc
- Start date
o1marc
Over 1,000 Posts
I want to use these gaiter clamps to secure the lower lip of the gaiter and locate the brake line. I had to take pliers and open the cable loop to install the brake line in it. As soon as I started to bend it it chipped all the chrome plating off it. So I will probably strip them and powder coat them black and buy a couple more brake lines that are a bit longer and then cut off the ends, feed the hose through the clip loops and then install my own reusable banjo ends in the correct position. Part of the wrong brake line issue is mine as these lines are suppose to have the ends the same on both ends, but mine need to be opposed by 90°.
When I received the lines I was impressed with their quality for inexpensive ($5.99 shipped) Chinese brake lines. They are DOT approved and sheathed in clear plastic.Unfortunately they didn't pay attention during assembly and one of the ends is clocked 45° from the other end and the line can't be twisted to mount it.
When one end is in this position.
The other end is in this position.
Actually, as mentioned above, they need to be clocked 90° from each other for my application. So I will need to cut one end off each line and replace the end with a $15 fitting on my $6 line.
When I received the lines I was impressed with their quality for inexpensive ($5.99 shipped) Chinese brake lines. They are DOT approved and sheathed in clear plastic.Unfortunately they didn't pay attention during assembly and one of the ends is clocked 45° from the other end and the line can't be twisted to mount it.
When one end is in this position.
The other end is in this position.
Actually, as mentioned above, they need to be clocked 90° from each other for my application. So I will need to cut one end off each line and replace the end with a $15 fitting on my $6 line.
o1marc
Over 1,000 Posts
Some of you will be happy to know I made some changes to the rear caliper set up to finally complete it's modification once my brake line straight end comes in the mail tomorrow. I noticed the caliper was mounted about an 1/8"too far inward. So I chucked it up the mill and took an 1/8" off the upper left and bottom bolt holes on the face of the caliper and took off a bit more on the upper right caliper bolt hole surface to make room between the caliper and caliper bracket to mount the Heim joint on the caliper stay rod in that space. Well the spacing for moving the caliper outward came out perfect, but I couldn't take enough material out the stay bar bolt hole of the caliper to accommodate the thickness of the Heim joint. So I looked around my parts stash and found that the stock brake drum stay bar was an almost perfect fit. It was the correct length to bolt to the caliper and be at the front of the slotted bracket at the front of the swingarm. I needed only to put a thin shim in-between the bar and the caliper to have a tight fit at that end, and a slight massaging on the sander of that end of the bar to clear around the bolt hole. Unfortunately the bracket at the other end is about 3/8" right of the bar. So I will take it to the machine shop and have them put it in their massive hydraulic metal bending machine and put a kink in it to solve that issue. I could just put a spacer at that connection but right now the bar has only about 1/4" clearance on the tire, so the bend will help that issue. I still think the Heim jointed rod would have worked sufficiently, but I didn't have a rod long enough or room for the Heim at the caliper so made do with what I had to work with. In the end, I'm satisfied with the set up.
I will, at some point, pull the swing arm and cut off the slotted bracket and replace it with a single hole tab instead.
I will, at some point, pull the swing arm and cut off the slotted bracket and replace it with a single hole tab instead.
o1marc
Over 1,000 Posts
One step forward and two steps back, or so I thought. I take the new brake line fitting and go to install it. I cut off the banjo fitting on the new hose and, WTF is this? I've never seen a teflon hose lined with another metal lining. I'm now thinking I just wasted a hose that I can no longer use and will need to order some -3 line and another fitting to just make a new hose.
Put this one aside for a few and go to install the new shorter rocker box inspection caps, they are still too tall to clear the carb. So I will look for a pair of carb spacers. I then go back to the brake hose brake line and grab a pick and see what's up with that lining. As I pry on it the end of it pops out, leaving a standard looking teflon lined braided line.
Apparently I cut the old fitting off so close to the base that I actually cut off the tip of the steel tube that goes inside the teflon hose and was now able to complete the install of the new fitting. Move 2 sets forward again.
Put this one aside for a few and go to install the new shorter rocker box inspection caps, they are still too tall to clear the carb. So I will look for a pair of carb spacers. I then go back to the brake hose brake line and grab a pick and see what's up with that lining. As I pry on it the end of it pops out, leaving a standard looking teflon lined braided line.
Apparently I cut the old fitting off so close to the base that I actually cut off the tip of the steel tube that goes inside the teflon hose and was now able to complete the install of the new fitting. Move 2 sets forward again.
thats just the barbed tube section that comes off any fitting so that the fiittings crim,p hass something to push against ,to clamp and trap the hose securely
it will always exctend a short distance further than its outer cripm band ,even on a reusble fitting
oh you caught that, never mind
it will always exctend a short distance further than its outer cripm band ,even on a reusble fitting
oh you caught that, never mind
stroker crazy
crazy as a fox
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
The AN 90 is a nice lash too. I would look for silver tho.
Storing that for later... The ryimz IS meh to me, I know therrr really special, but I would spend elsewhere... Nice Wurk.
Storing that for later... The ryimz IS meh to me, I know therrr really special, but I would spend elsewhere... Nice Wurk.
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
xb33bsa said:
Thanks for the fresh coffee stain... the keyboard survived.
Just a caution, in my experience, re-usable fittings are in general deemed unacceptable for brake applications. That said, I've done so myself in the past, but would not consider it now. I have personally seen these fail in automotive applications (unknown caliber of assembly). I reckon the rear brake duty on a bike to be mighty light so if you are confident you have a flawless assembly of the fitting(s) (not the easiest thing to do) you ought to be ok.
Nice project so far!
Nice project so far!
o1marc
Over 1,000 Posts
I've used them for decades without issue. If you put them together correctly they are flawless. I've heard lots of wives tales and horror stories in all that time, but have never experienced a leak. Some people are just morons when it comes to mechanical assemblies and I think you would find the amount of actual failures is quite small compared to how any thousands of these fittings are in use. I think all my bikes builds have lines made by me. Thanks for the kudos.jpmobius said:
preperation is important with either permanent or reusable hose ends
in the hydraulics shop the crimping machines and the die sets were all precision stuff that needed calibration and mantainance to stay in tune
put a hose togethr with too much topsoil included problems will arise
reusable fittings if reused you gotta remove any previous residue just like a gasket surface
but none of that matters much if the hose is under undue mechanical stress in use
its not the pressure even at 2000 psi there is only 30lbs of force trying to seperate a fitting with 1/8'' hose id, typical brake hose so if you can hang 30lbs off the floor with your brake line you mimick 2000 psi
what causes most hose end fails is simply bad planning ie hose gets pulled too kinky tight as suspension or steering is near limits etc
in the hydraulics shop the crimping machines and the die sets were all precision stuff that needed calibration and mantainance to stay in tune
put a hose togethr with too much topsoil included problems will arise
reusable fittings if reused you gotta remove any previous residue just like a gasket surface
but none of that matters much if the hose is under undue mechanical stress in use
its not the pressure even at 2000 psi there is only 30lbs of force trying to seperate a fitting with 1/8'' hose id, typical brake hose so if you can hang 30lbs off the floor with your brake line you mimick 2000 psi
what causes most hose end fails is simply bad planning ie hose gets pulled too kinky tight as suspension or steering is near limits etc
o1marc
Over 1,000 Posts
Sold some parts off a CRX i'm parting out and put some more money in the Triumph kitty. Ordered the battery, exhaust pipes and clamps, brake fittings, carb spacers, clutch cable adjuster, and extended ticklers. Need a chain and the GPS speedo and should be near completion. In the process of trying to install the wiring harness and hook everything to it.
o1marc
Over 1,000 Posts
Pipes came in and fit like a glove. Ordered the correct muffler clamps, but they sent me large coil clamps instead. They want me to return them for exchange. This is one case where I say you are responsible for return shipping as it was your mistake. If they don't correct the issue at no expense to me then they get negative feedback.
I notice the left pipe has a more straight section going down than the right side that looks more radiused, is this just normal of 650 pipes?
I notice the left pipe has a more straight section going down than the right side that looks more radiused, is this just normal of 650 pipes?
